THT Build in progress

[Rowan611]

Will do. Dig your avatar.

[Grant Bunter]

I'll just pre-drill and add the lock washers onto the screws before I drive them in.

No need to do that with Recex screws, they are self tapping and drilling.
Put the driver in place, mark the screws points, then remove the driver (just in case you slip and put a screw through the driver). Insert the screws. Back them out again, and store until later, with the driver.

I don't have a multimeter. How much do I need to spend on one? I won't use it a lot, and I don't really feel like buying a $60 meter just for this build. Any suggestions?

You don't need a super expensive one. You want one that can measure AC voltage on a scale up to 200 volts, and a continuity tester on the meter is very handy, for way more things than building speaker cabs. If you make sure it also measures DC voltage, that can be handy for checking your vehicle battery if it has problems, or other vehicle testing. $20-30 should be fine.

What would you recommend for securing the access panel?

I used 12G screws I think. Overdrill the actual access panel, so the screw threads just slips through. Don't pre drill the flanges, just drive the screw threads into them. This will pull the access panel tight to the flanges.

Thanks for all your help Grant.

No worries at all, glad to be able to help...

[Rowan611]

I'll just pre-drill and add the lock washers onto the screws before I drive them in.

No need to do that with Recex screws, they are self tapping and drilling.
Put the driver in place, mark the screws points, then remove the driver (just in case you slip and put a screw through the driver). Insert the screws. Back them out again, and store until later, with the driver.

I don't have a multimeter. How much do I need to spend on one? I won't use it a lot, and I don't really feel like buying a $60 meter just for this build. Any suggestions?

You don't need a super expensive one. You want one that can measure AC voltage on a scale up to 200 volts, and a continuity tester on the meter is very handy, for way more things than building speaker cabs. If you make sure it also measures DC voltage, that can be handy for checking your vehicle battery if it has problems, or other vehicle testing. $20-30 should be fine.

What would you recommend for securing the access panel?

I used 12G screws I think. Overdrill the actual access panel, so the screw threads just slips through. Don't pre drill the flanges, just drive the screw threads into them. This will pull the access panel tight to the flanges.

Thanks for all your help Grant.

No worries at all, glad to be able to help...

I would give you a like on your FB page, but, I don't have a FB account. I'll get my wife to log in and I'll do it that way.

I'm assuming the G means gauge?

[Grant Bunter]

I'm assuming the G means gauge?

Yep

[Rowan611]

Yep

Great. Thanks again Grant!

[Rowan611]

Ok. I couldn't sleep last night, so I basically went over the steps in building this beast in my head. I came up with a few more questions.

1) My HT is an open basement. I'm running my HT along the longest wall. My current subs are on opposite walls almost midway, both behind the MLP. My plan was to stick the THT where my 20-39+ is currently (along the left wall, to the left of the MLP and within 5'). That's where I get the best bass response. Considering the space I'm trying to pressurize is almost 4500 cu ft, will one THT suffice. Right now I get no pressure, I can rattle doors and vents, I get some couch shake, but no feeling like I'm being punched in the chest (which is my main goal).

2) How do you recommend cutting the panels? Meaning, should I cut a huge section exactly 23.5' tall, then cut the individual panels from these? I ask because one of my many concerns is making sure every panel is the same height. I haven't checked out cut list yet, and I will be. Maybe that will help me see this better.

3) Just to make sure I understand both Grant and Bill. You guys are telling me to directly screw the driver in place. Forgo the T-nuts or hurricane nuts completely. Same with the panel. Use 12G screws to secure it. I just want to verify for my own mind that I understand.

4) When Bill says to fill screw holes with adhesive I assume he's talking about the PL. Is that a safe assumption?

5) One of my biggest concerns is cutting the opening for the driver. I was planning on using my jig saw using a jig I found on youtube. However, I am wondering if I would be better off buying a router. Any thoughts on this?

6) Finally, I thought I would use some speaker gasket around the driver and access panel, just as a precaution. Will that make driving the screws more difficult?

I just built two right angle jigs and Ive found a good 2x4 to use for another assembly jig; although having just read through that section again Bill does recommend plywood. So, I'll cut another piece for that. It's slow going now, but once my CSM approves the driver and amp purchase, I can start.

Thanks again for all the help.

[Grant Bunter]

Ok. I couldn't sleep last night, so I basically went over the steps in building this beast in my head. I came up with a few more questions.

1) My HT is an open basement. I'm running my HT along the longest wall. My current subs are on opposite walls almost midway, both behind the MLP. My plan was to stick the THT where my 20-39+ is currently (along the left wall, to the left of the MLP and within 5'). That's where I get the best bass response. Considering the space I'm trying to pressurize is almost 4500 cu ft, will one THT suffice. Right now I get no pressure, I can rattle doors and vents, I get some couch shake, but no feeling like I'm being punched in the chest (which is my main goal).

Start with one. If it's not enough, build another. The same can be said if you experience room modes/nodes creating a null.
Punch in the chest requires 50-70Hz at over 110dB for music. That's well above reference level which is 80dB + 20dB headroom.


2) How do you recommend cutting the panels? Meaning, should I cut a huge section exactly 23.5' tall, then cut the individual panels from these? I ask because one of my many concerns is making sure every panel is the same height. I haven't checked out cut list yet, and I will be. Maybe that will help me see this better.

Lay out all the required panels using cutlist.
http://delphiforfun.org/programs/cutlist.htm
You may need to lay out more than 1 sheet to get enough panels. Set your sheet size in inches. Sometimes you will need to manually solve.
Slip the owner of the programme a donation

3) Just to make sure I understand both Grant and Bill. You guys are telling me to directly screw the driver in place. Forgo the T-nuts or hurricane nuts completely. Same with the panel. Use 12G screws to secure it. I just want to verify for my own mind that I understand.

Yes, use recex screws to screw the driver in place, and 12G screws with the access panel. If 12G looks to large, look at 10G screws.

4) When Bill says to fill screw holes with adhesive I assume he's talking about the PL. Is that a safe assumption?

Yes. It is essential the cab be leakproof. You can also use bondo/auto body filler to cover up screws if left in place (unless you want stain/lacquer finish).

5) One of my biggest concerns is cutting the opening for the driver. I was planning on using my jig saw using a jig I found on youtube. However, I am wondering if I would be better off buying a router. Any thoughts on this?

A router (with a jasper circle jig) will certainly make cutting a driver hole and rounding cab edges much easier. If you're on a budget, forget the router. I have cut plenty of baffle holes with a jigsaw freehand. Just practice some. And you can use a sander to round off cab edges, though this takes a lot longer.

6) Finally, I thought I would use some speaker gasket around the driver and access panel, just as a precaution. Will that make driving the screws more difficult?

The driver should have an adequate gasket already. I use closed cell foam strips for my access panels, but speaker gasket will be fine if it's wide enough. Some sealing method for the access panel is mandatory.

I just built two right angle jigs and Ive found a good 2x4 to use for another assembly jig; although having just read through that section again Bill does recommend plywood. So, I'll cut another piece for that. It's slow going now, but once my CSM approves the driver and amp purchase, I can start.

Thanks again for all the help.

[Rowan611]

Thank you Grant. This makes me feel much more at ease. I've been keeping an eye on CraigsList for a used router. I know one will be beneficial to have in the long run.

I don't normally do a lot of music on my system, it's mostly movies and the PS4.

[Rowan611]

Ok, so I originally thought I would use either the Behringer iNuke1000dsp or maybe the Bash300. But, I've found at my local Music go Round two used amps I'm interested in. One is a AB Precedent 400. It will put out 270W pre channel into 4 ohms, can't find a lot about them, but what I have read is positive. Then, for $10 more they have a QSC USA400. It will do 200W into 4ohms, is newer, and is a brand I've read a lot about.

Here are the links:
http://www.musicgoroundwoodbury.com/p/1 ... nt-400-amp
http://www.musicgoroundwoodbury.com/p/1 ... -power-amp

I like that the AB has the channel level knobs on the front. Doesn't have a fan - so no unwanted fan noise, and looks to be built very well and seems to be in better overall shape.
The QSC is newer, has a well known quality to it. The knobs for ch. level are on the back which is kinda of a PITA. And it's a little less per channel.

Overall I'm leaning towards the AB. I plan on going to look at them when I get the chance. Any thoughts? Should I just get the BASH300? The BASH seems like a great amp for the money.

I currently don't have a PC to run REW. I have the mic; but nothing but an iMac. I was thinking about selling my mic and just getting a BFD. Is a BFD going to do the same thing just without a PC?

[67baja]

The USA400 amp is a good amp, and has no fan so it is silent. I run 2 Otop12s on one channel of my USA400. I don't have any experience wit the other amp. Almost ANY amp will drive a THT to stoopid loud in a house. The Yung plate amps are good bangs for the buck as well.

[Rowan611]

The USA400 amp is a good amp, and has no fan so it is silent. I run 2 Otop12s on one channel of my USA400. I don't have any experience wit the other amp. Almost ANY amp will drive a THT to stoopid loud in a house. The Yung plate amps are good bangs for the buck as well.

Thanks. Didn't get to go see them today. Might make tomorrow. Good to know about the USA400!

[Rowan611]

Well I can't use CutList since Mac's aren't supported. I will just figure it out on the actual 4x8s

[Stratispho]

Well I can't use CutList since Mac's aren't supported. I will just figure it out on the actual 4x8s

There's a Sketchup Cutlist plugin for Macs.
https://code.google.com/p/cutlist/wiki/Installation

[Rowan611]

Well I can't use CutList since Mac's aren't supported. I will just figure it out on the actual 4x8s

There's a Sketchup Cutlist plugin for Macs.
https://code.google.com/p/cutlist/wiki/Installation

Thank you! That will help.

I've got the go ahead to start in July. Going to go get one of the amps tomorrow. I'm super psyched to start.

[Rowan611]

Well I bought the AB, hooked it up to my SVS's and I think it needs to go back. To get any usable output from the amp I have to turn the knobs all the way up. That doesn't seem right, @ 270W per channel I should be driving them with no problem. The CS+ is rated to 500W and the CS to 300W, neither will go to 75db unless the knobs are turned all the way up, and then I even have to add a little boost through my Denon. I will return it for the QSC and see how it does. I hope it works better, if not I'll return it for a full refund and buy a damn iNuke new.

Does this sound right? If I turn it up all the way I lose headroom, watching Tron with the volume at -21 I sent the amp into clipping. That tells me the issue is with the amp. Am I wrong?