Well I made some headway today. Got both the cut table and sled made. Both were easy and straight forward, especially with Bills instructions. I will say that I wish I had both last summer when I was building my fence, would have made rips a lot easier.
Didn't have any screws short enough so I used some Gorilla glue. I will go to HD and get some small screws for it. Gotta say the cut table makes cutting plywood a breeze. Thanks Bill!
Oh yeah, my circular saw does have the ability to cut single digit degrees....needless to say that will make everything tons easier. Less math for me is huge
Invest a small sum in a digital angle rule.
It makes setting angles a breeze and is way more accurate than those somewhat arbitary angles on circular saws...
Built:
DR 250: x 2 melded array, 2x CD horn, March 2012 plans.
T39's: 4 x 20" KL3010LF , 2 x 28" 3012LF.
WH8: x 6 with melded array wired series/parallel. Bunter's Audio and Lighting "like"s would be most appreciated...
Grant Bunter wrote:Invest a small sum in a digital angle rule.
It makes setting angles a breeze and is way more accurate than those somewhat arbitary angles on circular saws...
Grant Bunter wrote:Invest a small sum in a digital angle rule.
It makes setting angles a breeze and is way more accurate than those somewhat arbitary angles on circular saws...
I think they are referred to as hurricane nuts.
Possibly more likely to spin.
There was a post from Harley about how to put in T nuts so they will never spin.
There has been a move away from using T nuts since I have been on the forum.
T nuts have to be precisely positioned to be used.
Far and away easier to use Recex screws, plenty strong enough and available from Speakerhardware.com
Everything you need for your build is available from there!
Built:
DR 250: x 2 melded array, 2x CD horn, March 2012 plans.
T39's: 4 x 20" KL3010LF , 2 x 28" 3012LF.
WH8: x 6 with melded array wired series/parallel. Bunter's Audio and Lighting "like"s would be most appreciated...
No doubt it's in the plans, but even if you use heavy drivers like a lab 12 (if that's a recommended driver for your build), that usually simply means more anchors sometimes aka spacers, for more "meat" for the screws to bite into. With a lock washer, they won't back out...
Built:
DR 250: x 2 melded array, 2x CD horn, March 2012 plans.
T39's: 4 x 20" KL3010LF , 2 x 28" 3012LF.
WH8: x 6 with melded array wired series/parallel. Bunter's Audio and Lighting "like"s would be most appreciated...
The recex screws will be fine with a 15" driver too...
Built:
DR 250: x 2 melded array, 2x CD horn, March 2012 plans.
T39's: 4 x 20" KL3010LF , 2 x 28" 3012LF.
WH8: x 6 with melded array wired series/parallel. Bunter's Audio and Lighting "like"s would be most appreciated...
Cool. I think they'll be easier then dealing with T-nuts. I'll just pre-drill and add the lock washers onto the screws before I drive them in. I'm assuming I can do the same for the panel, although T-nuts would make more sense there for removal reasons.
Rowan611 wrote:Cool. I think they'll be easier then dealing with T-nuts. I'll just pre-drill and add the lock washers onto the screws before I drive them in. I'm assuming I can do the same for the panel, although T-nuts would make more sense there for removal reasons.
Screws don't need lock washers, they don't loosen up and spin out the way that bolts will. The wood fibers serve as 'loctite'. I don't use bolts on the covers anymore either, too much hassle if you spin or cross-thread a nut. Blind nuts used to be well made and issue free, but most of what's out there now is real junk.
Bill Fitzmaurice wrote:Screws don't need lock washers, they don't loosen up and spin out the way that bolts will. The wood fibers serve as 'loctite'. I don't use bolts on the covers anymore either, too much hassle if you spin or cross-thread a nut. Blind nuts used to be well made and issue free, but most of what's out there now is real junk.
I didn't know if the vibrations from the woofer would back them out. What would you recommend for securing the access panel?
Rowan611 wrote:I didn't know if the vibrations from the woofer would back them out. What would you recommend for securing the access panel?
I've never had a screw back out yet. Bolts/nuts are better for something that gets accessed a lot, as screws will eventually cause the hole in the wood to loosen to the point that they won't hold. You shouldn't have to pull the cover unless the driver dies, hopefully of (very) old age.
Ok, then this makes driver and panel installation a lot easier. One very small thing I don't have to think about anymore. Thanks Bill and Grant.
Just got my jig saw today. Going to practice cutting circles with it and make a cutting jig for it this weekend. Just ordered 8 clamps for justclamps, now I need to order the driver and amp, but the wood and PL and I'm ready to go. I don't have a multimeter. How much do I need to spend on one? I won't use it a lot, and I don't really feel like buying a $60 meter just for this build. Any suggestions? I know nothing about them.
Rowan611, it would be awfully helpful if you would put your location in your profile, so potential help know where to send you. Cheers!
I know money often seals the deal, but seriously, quality is an investment, not an expense... Grant Bunter
Accept the fact that airtight and well-braced are more important than pretty on the inside. Bill Fitzmaurice
