Any tips on buying a table saw??????

[Hackomatic]

Thou shalt not covet. . . But, I WANT ONE!

[Harley]

I WANT ONE

What brand is that?

[Hackomatic]

Bill said Delta, but AFAIC, it doesn't matter! It be pretty.

[LelandCrooks]

There can be only one.

http://www.sawstop.com/

[Michael Ewald Hansen]

There can be only one.

http://www.sawstop.com/

I wish they would start selling them in Europe

[Hackomatic]

There can be only one.

Yeah, BUT . . Bill said he paid $100 for the saw, $250 for the fence! I'm still looking for that pricing on the SawStop site . . .

[CBIERN]

There can be only one.

http://www.sawstop.com/

http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/208392 ... TGP36.aspx

You'll pay $150 in shipping alone!

[rbarone]

For what it's worth, I'm a woodworker by trade, so I guess I'll offer my two cents...

Take in all the advice given thus far - consider your space & power requirements, rip capacity, dust control etc.

The best blade is a Woodworker 2. It's $110 & worth every penny. It's thin kerf will aid an under-powered saw, & will leave a perfect cut line. When it's dull, pack it up & send it off to Dynamic Saw in Buffalo for sharpening - it's a bargain.

Install a zero clearance throat plate. It will greatly reduce tear-out along the bottom of the cut.

Have adequate infeed & outfeed support. This will help you move the material along the fence more easily & accurately.

Get the best fence available / that you can afford. Lower quality fences will flex under a heavier load ( like a large sheet of plywood ). Some smaller machines combat this with locking mechanisms at both the front & back rails.

No matter if you buy a brand new machine or a used one - spend as much time as needed setting it up. Make sure the fence is square to the blade. Check the accuracy of the fence ( & it's ability to make a repeatable cut ). Make sure the blade's dead-stop @ 90 degrees is right on.

Hope this helps -

[Harley]

Make sure the fence is square to the blade.

Mot perfectly square though IMO. I allow a 0.1 to 0.2mm toe out to the rear of the saw which greatly reduces kick back and jamming.