I purchased the crossover parts from Leland over at SpeakerHardware.com but bought the 2 way crossover board from Parts-Express.com.
I inserted the parts on the boards except for the resistors where I'm not sure where to place them. I believe the 2 inch 30 ohm resister between the common and T+ but don't see where I can put the 3 inches long 4 ohm resister accept inline on the wire to the tweeters.
I'm attaching the images of the crossover document & with parts on the board.
Both resistors will have to share a hole with T+ terminal. Then, the other leg of the 30 Ohm goes into a hole on a "common" tab; the remaining leg of the 4 ohm will go directly to the tweets.
Hecdtec wrote:I purchased the crossover parts from Leland over at SpeakerHardware.com but bought the 2 way crossover board from Parts-Express.com.
The Jack crossover is not a standard 2 way. There is no place on a standard 2 way crossover board for the resistors in the high pass filter.
This is how you get the right stuff:
1. Ask the question.
2. Get the answer.
3. Order the parts
When you undertake step 3 first bad things will usually be the result.
There's a reason why Leland is a recommended source. When you deal with Leland you're working with someone who knows the designs and what you need. Parts Express can't do that.
"A system with a few knobs set up by someone who knows what they are doing is always better than one with a lot of knobs set up by someone who doesn't."
Could you make a note of that in the plans? I didn't think the crossovers would come in with such detail upon zooming into them. Also there still some questions as to how the positive and netative buses where terminated to connect the in and out connections even if there are a few ways that could be done.
I've read that I can cut through the traces on the boards. Going to speak to Parts-Express on how that can be done. My idea will be to drill holes for the smaller 30ohm resistor to attach between common and HF Cap & Coil. Then cut around the T+ connector giving 1/4 inch around it separating the connector from the HF Cap & Coil and resistor on their own trace. Then make a hole in the 1/4 inch trace of the T+ connector and another near the HF Cap, HF Coil and 30ohm resistor tracing and soldering the 4 ohm resistor up and over the 30ohm resistor. This should put everything on the board.
It"s been 30 years since I've played with electronics guys so bear with me.
Hecdtec wrote: Also there still some questions as to how the positive and netative buses where terminated to connect the in and out connections even if there are a few ways that could be done.
If you zoom in close enough on the Sketch-up, the positive (+) side is delineated by a red wire and the negative (-) by the black. HTH.
Hecdtec wrote: Also there still some questions as to how the positive and netative buses where terminated to connect the in and out connections even if there are a few ways that could be done.
If you zoom in close enough on the Sketch-up, the positive (+) side is delineated by a red wire and the negative (-) by the black. HTH.
I'm aware of which are negative and positive. I'm looking to see what device(s) are used to terminate the the buses and still allow connection to the speakers and/or speaker connector.
Hecdtec wrote: Also there still some questions as to how the positive and netative buses where terminated to connect the in and out connections even if there are a few ways that could be done.
If you zoom in close enough on the Sketch-up, the positive (+) side is delineated by a red wire and the negative (-) by the black. HTH.
I'm aware of which are negative and positive. I'm looking to see what device(s) are used to terminate the the buses and still allow connection to the speakers and/or speaker connector.
Wire and solder are the only (and by far, the best) devices necessary to connect the crossover to the speaker jacks. Every other device, component, clip, or connector can fail.....
"A system with a few knobs set up by someone who knows what they are doing is always better than one with a lot of knobs set up by someone who doesn't."
You can cut a new trace with the edge of a file. I use a moto tool with a cutting disc. When I can't find the moto tool I just put the cutting disc in my drill.
IME it can be a dangerous line trying to solder to speaker terminals (without a heat sink), even though that is exactly what I did on 40ish drivers in my SLA/TLAH setup. For connecting to banana terminals it is totally fine as there is nothing to melt... I'm not sure what you were implying as being "the speaker" but I thought I'd share my 2c.
Built
2 x TLAH
1 Titan 39 (lab 12, 15 inch)
1 Tuba 60 (lab 12, 20 inch)
SLA Center
2 x Mini MLTP subwoofers
1 x 212 TH (custom)
2 x Mini-Karlsonators Owned, but not built
2 x Jack 12 (2512, melded)
