Reconing Delta Pro 15s

Helpful hints on how to build 'em, and where to get the stuff you need.
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Hackomatic
Posts: 400
Joined: Thu Jun 25, 2009 8:11 am
Location: West TN

Reconing Delta Pro 15s

#1 Post by Hackomatic »

The first time I've ever done it. Actually it's not as bad as I had imagined and figure anyone should be able to do it with little chance for a disaster, AND without sending their duds off for what turns out to be an expensive rebuild. Getting all the old stuff cleaned off the frame takes the most physical effort. A good sharp utility knife is a must. Clean the gap with some double sided tape to get any stray matter out of there. Run two beads of glue on the frame . . one where the spider attaches, and another where the cone (surround) attaches. TIP: If you decide to do this yourself, get a small stirring stick of some sort to stir the glue before trying to run the beads. The nozzle became constipated several times with lumps from within and that was the most aggravating part of the whole process. After getting the glue beads around the frame, place the new cone assembly onto the frame. Really, it's just a matter of getting the voice coil down in the gap. Once it's in place, rotate the cone assembly 3 times on the frame to spread the adhesive evenly, then stop when the tinsel leads are lined up with the binding posts. Insert the plastic spacer shims opposite each other between the magnet and voice coil assembly to center the voice coil former in the magnetic motor assembly. The instructions say to let the adhesive cure out for 36 to 48 hours. I also went ahead and soldered the tinsel leads onto the binding post tabs, leaving enough slack in the leads for cone movement, but not so much that the might slap the cone during heavy excursion. I'll trim the excess lead latter . . That's pretty much it in a nut shell. After the recommended cure time, you will glue the dust cap and gaskets in place, centering the dust cap in the middle of the cone and making sure the gaskets are properly aligned with the frame screw holes. Piece o' cake! 8) . . . Some pics.
recone1.jpg
recone2.jpg
recone3.jpg
recone4.jpg
recone5.jpg
Dave H

sine143
Posts: 3066
Joined: Sat Feb 06, 2010 3:27 pm
Location: Raleigh NC

Re: Reconing Delta Pro 15s

#2 Post by sine143 »

pre assembled kits?
Built:
2x Tuba 30s delta12lf loaded (gone)
4x Otop12 d2512 loaded
8x t48s (18, 18, 24, 24, 30, 30) 3015lf loaded
2x AT (1 mcm, 1 gto 804)
2x SLA Pro (dayton pa6, 6 goldwood piezo loaded)
1x bastard XF208

2x OT212 (delta pro 450a loaded, eminence psd)

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Hackomatic
Posts: 400
Joined: Thu Jun 25, 2009 8:11 am
Location: West TN

Re: Reconing Delta Pro 15s

#3 Post by Hackomatic »

sine143 wrote:pre assembled kits?
Yep . . McKenzie . . . $38 per kit.
Dave H

sine143
Posts: 3066
Joined: Sat Feb 06, 2010 3:27 pm
Location: Raleigh NC

Re: Reconing Delta Pro 15s

#4 Post by sine143 »

yep. those are quite simple to put together. I"m a fan.
Built:
2x Tuba 30s delta12lf loaded (gone)
4x Otop12 d2512 loaded
8x t48s (18, 18, 24, 24, 30, 30) 3015lf loaded
2x AT (1 mcm, 1 gto 804)
2x SLA Pro (dayton pa6, 6 goldwood piezo loaded)
1x bastard XF208

2x OT212 (delta pro 450a loaded, eminence psd)

byacey
Posts: 947
Joined: Thu Jun 14, 2012 9:09 am
Location: Edmonton, Alberta, Canada

Re: Reconing Delta Pro 15s

#5 Post by byacey »

The only thing I would advise is to have the shims in place before the surround and spider touch the gluing surfaces. Any slight bias one direction or the other can lead towards an off-center coil. Once the shims are in place, carefully let the cone drop into place to complete the glue bond.
Don't try and correct anything by pushing, tugging or lining anything up; it has to be glued exactly where it falls into place.
Built
T48s
WH8s
SX212

Curtybob
Posts: 151
Joined: Thu Oct 17, 2013 7:48 pm
Location: Cape Girardeau, MO

Re: Reconing Delta Pro 15s

#6 Post by Curtybob »

byacey wrote:The only thing I would advise is to have the shims in place before the surround and spider touch the gluing surfaces. Any slight bias one direction or the other can lead towards an off-center coil. Once the shims are in place, carefully let the cone drop into place to complete the glue bond.
Don't try and correct anything by pushing, tugging or lining anything up; it has to be glued exactly where it falls into place.
This makes me think that glues are widely varied depending on location and place of purchase. The glue in these pics is the same stuff I've used. There is no tack... very long working time and fairly thin liquid. As a matter of fact, the directions specifically state to rotate the cone 3x to make sure the glue is spread evenly. The cone will sit where the shims put it unless you let it sit for an obscene amount of time before sticking everything together. Not saying that is proper with all adhesives, though.

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