Router Tips

[LelandCrooks]

No, I don't have any, I'm looking for them.

I used my pattern following bit to make some cutouts. I haven't used it much before. It really chattered the edge of the cut. I was looking for a nice smooth cut. Fixed it with a rasp. I adjusted the speed up but it didn't' seem to help.

Suggestions? A technique I'm missing here?

[Harley]

No, I don't have any, I'm looking for them.

A company down the road from me makes a whole raft if quality TC Router bits http://www.linbide.co.nz/about_us.php

Let me know which ones you want. I go there on a regular basis and just love any excuse to visit!

Harley

[tallclyde]

If you have a 1/4" shank bit you probably taking too large a cut. I usually take 2 or 3 passes with a bearing over bit. If the bearing is under the bit, I use a jig saw to cut within 1/8 to 1/4" from line then finish the cut with the router. If 1/2" shank go slower probably. What make and hp is your router?
Less expensive tools work fine just don't push them as hard. Hope this helps.
Clyde

[Harley]

No, I don't have any, I'm looking for them.....Suggestions? A technique I'm missing here?

Whoops, in my reply above I thought you were looking for the router tips ( bits ) themselves!

For a top bearing following bit, I use a 1/2" shank and about 30mm dia to get the best result. The larger cutter also works better for doing the routs where the router tip is not fully penetrating the wood ( recessed handles on DRs for instance - making a 9mm deep rout cut into 12.5mm ply )

With the larger dia, the knife speed is faster than that of a 1/2" cutter.

Also, don't push too fast through the cut but have the speed at max - that's what I found works best.

Direction also makes a difference, even on ply.

Harley

[LelandCrooks]

It's a 3/4 cut, 1/4 shank bit. I was cutting 1/2 bb in one pass. I had it in my cheapie B&D plunge router, supposed to be 1 3/4 hp. My jasper jig is mounted on my good Bosch 3 1/4 hp.

I'll swap that out. Too much cut, too fast, not enough machine all make sense. The bosch will also take 1/2 shank bits, of which I have a couple. Put the 1/4 in the B&D for circles only. I bought it cheap, so I won't complain much.

30mm is a big bit.

[DAVID_L_PERRY]

.........too much cut, too fast, not enough machine all make sense. The bosch will also take 1/2 shank bits, of which I have a couple. Put the 1/4 in the B&D for circles only. I bought it cheap, so I won't complain much.

30mm is a big bit.

I have found that I need to take a several passes with my cheap and chearfull router rather than trying to go full depth in one pass. Promised myself a billy big boy router befor I do my Titans...

The other thing I found when I did try to do it in one pass was that the sawdust packed pretty tight under my cutting jig...
"slow and steady wins the race" as my old man says...and Leland, whats all this talk in 'mm'..I thought that was the devils own numeric unit....

Dave

[Bill Fitzmaurice]

For freehand use a 1.75-2HP, and a 1/2" collet is a must. I use a 3/4"D bit for edge finishing, where there's minimal cutting. For handle holes I use a 1/2" D bit.

[fender3x]

I had exactly the same problem...I have made every mistake listed above, plus two others:

Make sure your pattern is secured really well. I NOW understand why Bill suggests screwing it to the piece you want to cut. If your router does start to complain a little, clamps are often not enough to hold the pattern.

Make sure the pattern is made of strong stuff. Bill uses hardwood. I will too in the future. I started witha piece of 1/4" masonite figuring "hey, I'm only going to make one of these cabs"... Long story short, that ended up being my first opportunity to use the "panel jointing" technique in Bill's plans...had to cut off that part of the panel, and re-do it... 2nd try I used 1/2" plywood. Better but still not great. Next time I'll use hardwood. Takes me a while sometimes...

[Harley]

2nd try I used 1/2" plywood. Better but still not great. Next time I'll use hardwood. Takes me a while sometimes...

I use 1/2" ply for all my top bearing follower rout jigs and clamp them down well. I never have a problem with them.

It's essential you make an accurate and smooth rout jig to begin with.

I also use a 1" rout bit with 1/2" shank - but even then, I also have one with a 1/4" shank and use my el-cheapo chinese router - still no problems

Harley

[GeoffBass]

Back in the days of dinosaur sound systems, I made several wildly overbuilt enclosure out of 3/4" ply, complete with 1 3/4" square bracing at every join between panels. I used my Makita 3 hp router ( a beast!) with a 1/2" shank 3/4" radius bearing bit to fully radius the corners in one pass. You just can't have too much horsepower! I'm looking forward to doing 2 OT15's to start off with, 1/2" ply with no corner block bracing (my back!) A lower power router is easier to control, and like Harley said, take the time to make the template smooth, and it will be a pleasure to use. I had to make about 300 seat bases decades ago, I trimmed them out of blanks of 3/4" particle board with that router - 1st class results!

Cheers,
Geoff

[Harley]

Back in the days of dinosaur .. I used my Makita 3 hp router ( a beast!) with a 1/2"

If it was one of these....I not only have one....but I have the Wang Fling Dung Cho Chi Ming copy of one as well - they weigh a TON!...and the bits have a habit of slipping down the shank unless you torque them up to about 300 nm3!

Harley

[fender3x]

If it was one of these....I not only have one....but I have the Wang Fling Dung Cho Chi Ming copy of one as well - they weigh a TON!...and the bits have a habit of slipping down the shank unless you torque them up to about 300 nm3!

This is what I have too. Works great once you do get the bit torqued down well... It has a little less torque than a tractor, and weighs just a little less too. Another similarity is that it'd take dynamite to damage it. Best of all they can be had for under $50 with shipping from ebay:

http://cgi.ebay.com/1-2-Electric-Plunge ... dZViewItem