First build T39 16in wide - bp102

[Grant Bunter]

^True,
Having 4 x BP102 loaded cabs, I can tell you they go very well indeed...

[Tom Smit]

DJPhatman recently shared a trick in regards to the continuous ooze from the nozzle. Wrap the tube tightly with tape as this will keep the tube from bulging when pulling the trigger, and therefore the tube won't retract and cause pressure on the product.

[escapemcp]

I don't know if the titans are the same as the tubas, but ensure that you scrape away the PL for where other panels go (obvious) AND for the access panel flanges (not quite so obvious, as I found out!). Trying to remove PL from there is nigh on impossible if you don't do it when you have access. I had to sand the inside corner of all my flanges so that they would fit around the blob of PL... made the whole process a PITA.

Hope this helps.

[Saddle]

I don't know if the titans are the same as the tubas, but ensure that you scrape away the PL for where other panels go (obvious) AND for the access panel flanges (not quite so obvious, as I found out!). Trying to remove PL from there is nigh on impossible if you don't do it when you have access. I had to sand the inside corner of all my flanges so that they would fit around the blob of PL... made the whole process a PITA.

Hope this helps.

Thanks for all your PL tips. They will really help!

My speaker got shipped today, so in a few days I can cut out the baffle and get on with this!!

[Saddle]

Got something done today that will help me with my build. I built a cutting jig (sled) for my table saw. I didn't build it quite like Bill's sled in the plans. My table saw is a cheap old craftsman and has the 5/8 x 1/4 slots in the top. So I built one slightly different...

The Top is 1/2 ply. 2' x 4'. The runners are 1x2 poplar. The saw table is 26x16", so I added on 32" runners on the side with about 8" overhang front and rear. I needed/wanted more surface area.





The carriage bolts are 1/4 x 1 1/2". Drilled down with a 3/4" spade bit, then a 5/16" bit for the bolt. Fastened with a flat washer and nut.







I squared up the leading edge on the sled with the blade, and it cuts pretty square. I do get a bit of side to side motion.. maybe 1/32" when the sled is pushed all the way forward so the blade is at the rear of the sled. You can move it side to side. But at that point, you only have about 7" of the table under the sled, and the wooden arms flex a little side to side. I may put a runner in the track as well. But I just finished it as the sun went down, and I have to get familiar with it now.




Also a question on the build... Would it hurt to put two strips in to align panels #2 and #4 and LEAVE THEM in? They don't appear to be in the way of the speaker based on measurements.



Should have ordered my speaker sooner... Delayed too long... So I'm doing other things. One thing I should concentrate on is cleaning up my shop!!

Thanks,
Greg

[Grant Bunter]

Driver chamber size is as big as it can be in the space available.
Leaving guide parts in there reduces that space (and adds unnecessary weight), and therefor I presume affects performance.

Don't leave them in there...

[Saddle]

Driver chamber size is as big as it can be in the space available.
Leaving guide parts in there reduces that space (and adds unnecessary weight), and therefor I presume affects performance.

Don't leave them in there...

Weight is an issue. I want my Wife to be able to pack this. (kidding) The size of the sealed chamber was the first thing I thought of. But since the 10" driver can be in a narrow 13" width to a 20" (i believe) The sealed chamber volume must be a pretty flexible size. (mine is 15" internal) But I doubt that I will leave them in...

If I had been more confidant in my building skills, I would have used BB for this. This plywood isn't bad, but every cut piece has some small warpage to it.. not show stoppers, but sure makes you think about precision building with plywood! I was thinking that nailing to those strips as well as the top would be a nice solid foundation for the top end of the cabinet.

Thanks
Greg

[Grant Bunter]

True, your ply shots reminded me of what I use to build cabs (because I can't get BB at a reasonable price). For me, using that material, and 9 cabs to date, following the dewarping instructions in the plans has made panel warp a non issue.
And that ply is lighter lol.
You end up with 4 panels supporting/attached to that cab top piece, the most of any panel in the cab.
It doesn't need more...

[Saddle]

True, your ply shots reminded me of what I use to build cabs (because I can't get BB at a reasonable price). For me, using that material, and 9 cabs to date, following the dewarping instructions in the plans has made panel warp a non issue.
And that ply is lighter lol.
You end up with 4 panels supporting/attached to that cab top piece, the most of any panel in the cab.
It doesn't need more...

Thanks Grant, I made all the cawls (?) and 4-5 of the boards for dewarping from the plans too. Used them already, and it really helps. Once in place and the PL is set. No more warp.

It is light plywood. Pretty decent. $32 a sheet at Lowes. Got two good sheets. Making a rack case for some gear as well.

[Saddle]

Well, more pictures. I got my speaker and hardware in from Leland last Thursday, but left Friday morning to go to Portland/Vancouver for a funeral. Back Sunday, and got started on the baffle. I used my router to cut out the circles. That sure is fast!

I'm using the hurricane nuts with no notch in the edges to fit a screw in. So I cut out a small notch with my angle grinder, used #6 x 1/2" screws and mounted and epoxied them.



I'm concerned about getting the flat washer down in the front gasket material. Maybe just the star washer and allen head cap screw.







Some chipping out of the plywood around the hole. Hoping the gasket will cover all this and seal well.


Got plenty of PL on it. I'm concerned a bit about temperature. Shop is getting down to about 45 degrees f. at night. Maybe just longer cure times?

I read something the other day about misting your plywood before applying PL if the humidity was too low. Is that a concern?
Now that I've got all the hardware, I can start putting 2-3 panels in a day and get this thing done. What is the best sized round-over bit for 1/2 plywood? I want my round edges to match the corners I got from Leland.

Thanks

[Tom Smit]

1/4" round-over for 1/2" ply.

[Saddle]

1/4" round-over for 1/2" ply.

Thanks! I'll hit home depot this weekend. Hope it cuts brads ok!

[Bill Fitzmaurice]

Got plenty of PL on it. I'm concerned a bit about temperature. Shop is getting down to about 45 degrees f. at night. Maybe just longer cure times?

Low temperatures plus low humidity= poor expansion and poor adhesion.

[Saddle]

Got plenty of PL on it. I'm concerned a bit about temperature. Shop is getting down to about 45 degrees f. at night. Maybe just longer cure times?

Low temperatures plus low humidity= poor expansion and poor adhesion.

I can keep the shop warmer. I do during the day when I'm working. I don't think I can raise the humidity in general, but would misting the plywood before I glue the joints help?

The low out there last night was about 48...

Thanks!

[miked]

Great job with the t-nuts. That's exactly how you do it. BTW, I like your TS sled and the side runners you made for it. Quite ingenious. I need to get around to making a larger sled. The first (and only one) I built can only handle panels up to 13" wide.