Titan 39 Build

[Jason_A]

I'm kicking off my Titan 39 build today.  I decided to go with a 24" wide cabinet, and will be using the LAB12 driver.  I'll be building a pair initially.  I figured a 24" wide cab would be a convenient size, and a good compromise between size and portability. 

Today I got started on the first cabinet.  I'm using Arauco plywood, which I like a lot.  I just used it on another build, and it is definitely a much better product than other plywoods I've used before.  It feels weird using 1/2" plywood - just doesn't seem right .  I'm trusting the design, though.

I got the sides cut out and rough cut all of the internal panels.  I am going with a square back cab, so I made a handle cutout template, and then spent a fair amount of time on the baffle.  I got that all assembled, including the t-nuts (which I secured with screws from the back to make sure they stay put - thanks to whoever had that idea).  I managed to get panels 1 and 2 installed, which seemed like pretty good progress for the first day.  It seems like this was some of the more time consuming steps, so I'm hoping to make quicker progress the next time I head to the garage.





And before I get beat up for it, YES, that is Titebond in the background and YES I did use it.  But only for laminating the two driver anchors together.  The rest is held together with PL Premium (that stuff is pretty nasty to work with).

[byacey]

PL isn't that nasty; it's not like ABS or PVC cement, just it's a little bit messy until you can estimate how much is needed for a sufficient glue joint.

For laminating larger surface areas, I agree the PVA glue is a better choice.

[Tom Smit]

  It feels weird using 1/2" plywood - just doesn't seem right .  I'm trusting the design, though.

[Grant Bunter]

Ha ha, easy to see you've been reading the forum, with the titebond comment.

It's better to take your time and get completely airtight seals than not.

Looking great so far

[Titanium Hand]

Neat As! Well executed handle holes. T39's are out of this world banging cabs, 24 inch is definitely a good size.

[ejh2854]

T39's are out of this world banging cabs, 24 inch is definitely a good size.

At'sa fact ...built a 1xLAB12 24" a few months back, and it's been outstanding.

[Jason_A]

The one thing I need to get figured out before I get too much further is what I'm going to do about casters. What are people typically using - just grab something from the hardware store, or are there specific casters people find work particularly well? What size?

I know there's stuff like this: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdet ... er=262-282

Are there other options that people like better? I figured I'd go with something more like this: http://www.harborfreight.com/3-inch-x-7 ... 66363.html

[miked]

For casters on a T39/T48, people typically use the flush-mount (or cutout mount, depending on your POV) casters you linked to (the PE ones). If you prefer to not make the cutouts on the back panel that those casters require, you can bolt on pretty much any caster you want. Just be sure the cab remains air-tight. Air tight is the only rule you cannot break with horn-loaded subs. Break the rule, break your driver!

Build looks good so far! Keep the pics coming; we get all warm and fuzzy over build pics.

[Bruce Weldy]

For casters on a T39/T48, people typically use the flush-mount (or cutout mount, depending on your POV) casters you linked to (the PE ones). If you prefer to not make the cutouts on the back panel that those casters require, you can bolt on pretty much any caster you want.

You are correct....it is a pain to do the cutouts and get 'em at just the right angle for the casters. One issue is price - $4 vs $15 for the heavy duty ones that Leland sells. Secondly, I like to determine how high or low the caster sits in relation to the bottom of the cab - I want to make sure that the cab sits straight on it's bottom and doesn't have the caster tilting it forward.

But, no question - those are a lot easier to put on.

[whines]

Others have noted that some casters rattle when a sub is running...keep that in mind as something you may want to avoid.

[jswingchun]

The one thing I need to get figured out before I get too much further is what I'm going to do about casters. What are people typically using - just grab something from the hardware store, or are there specific casters people find work particularly well? What size?

I know there's stuff like this: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdet ... er=262-282

Are there other options that people like better? I figured I'd go with something more like this: http://www.harborfreight.com/3-inch-x-7 ... 66363.html

I used these from Leland's store on my 28" T39s.
http://www.speakerhardware.com/3-heavy- ... caster.php

I used these on my 19" T39s
http://www.speakerhardware.com/2-12-flu ... caster.php

I see you are from Marion, Iowa. I'm from Center Point, but play in Cedar Rapids all the time. If you want to hear some T39s in action we are doing a show this Saturday night at The Shack Tavern. We will be setting up around 6:00 for an 8:00 PM show. I'm in the band knubby. Will also have OmniTop 12's, Wedgehorns, Jacks (the FourJackStack, BOOM!!) and XF210s. Stop by if you want to hear the CR area's largest collection of BFM cabs.

[Jason_A]

Finally found a little time to work on the subs again. Progress is coming a little slower than I'd like, but at least I'm still moving forward. I got a few more panels and braces installed so it's starting to look like something.



I've got these two subs plus a pair of mains that I need to paint. I already have the flat black latex applied to the mains as primer. I'm going to do Duratex, but still contemplating rolling vs spray. I've got an adequate compressor to spray, and I've read some of the posts about how to do the spraying with the HF hopper gun, so that's the way I'm leaning right now. My main concern is getting the best looking finish possible, and it seems like spraying will give me that, even if it's at the expense of some extra hassle.

[AntonZ]

You may be underestimating the quality finish you can obtain with a simple coarse roller. I thought I needed a spray gun but I'm not in the US. No hopper guns are available here. I used a roller for lack of a spray gun and never looked back. It takes a little practice to get the right feel for the roller. My guess is the hopper guns require yet more practice.

[Bruce Weldy]

My guess is the hopper guns require yet more practice.

...and more time....and more cleanup.....and more expense....and more waste.....

I've rolled 11 speakers cabs (multiple coats) and various cases. There is no difference in the look from a sprayed cab. In other words - you can't tell it's been rolled. The duratex has a dimpled finish that covers up any streak marks. Be sure and use the rollers that Leland sells.

[LelandCrooks]

My guess is the hopper guns require yet more practice.

...and more time....and more cleanup.....and more expense....and more waste.....

I've rolled 11 speakers cabs (multiple coats) and various cases. There is no difference in the look from a sprayed cab. In other words - you can't tell it's been rolled. The duratex has a dimpled finish that covers up any streak marks. Be sure and use the rollers that Leland sells.

I find the opposite to be true Bruce, except the cleanup part. Depends on how you spray whether it matches a rolled look or not. I know my finish just can't be done with a roller. But then again I've sprayed quite a few gallons.

But using the recommended rollers is a must, correct. I have not been able to find anything that's even close to them in quality of application and finish.