Need help final steps on T48s

[ondasticks]

Ok so I'm waiting for my drivers to be delivered I understand before I mount them I need to play a tone thru them 25 thru 30 htz at 10 volts so i guess i put multimeter to terminals and pump up the volume till i get that voltage and leave it there for 12 hrs. Then its time to check for leaks is there a video or images on how to do that. Bill says use flexible tubing approx 3ft and listen for the air whistling out how do I do that exactly. I assume I do that after I mount driver?And last question with duratex should I order spray or roller grade???

[sine143]

first off. Have you built the cab yet? most importantly, did you build the baffle piece without having the driver on hand (bad idea)

you've got the break in steps down. If you have more than 1 driver, wire them out of phase to cut down on volume

leak check: install driver. play 20 to 30 hz tone at low volume, 7 to 10 volts, without access cover installed. put one end of tube in your ear, and run the other around the driver where it meets the baffle. listen for chuffing sounds, particularly near the bolts. After thats satisfactory, install access panel and repeat your listening steps on EVERY seam you can reach.

[ondasticks]

I didn't finish putting upper brace because Bill warned about it being hard to mount driver if I would of so even though you didn't really answer my question you repeated what Bill's instructions said. I'm looking for someone to word it different " how do I check for leaks maybe a pic or two will help.

[Grant Bunter]

Sine143's comment was regarding that the baffle hole should be cut with the driver on hand, so you can test fit before installing the baffle into the cab. It's very difficult to alter the baffle hole size with the baffle installed. Hope that doesn't become a problem for you.

Yes, you're correct.
Driver break in:
Tone generator to amp input, with attenuator on 0. With mulimeter leads on the amp terminals (not the speaker) increase attenuator to 10V (use the AC 200 setting on your multimeter). 12 hours is good.

Leak testing is using the piece of tubing like a stethoscope.
Install the driver and crank it down.
Using the tone generator again, once again wind it up to 10V.
Stick one end of the piece of tubing in your ear, and run the other end around the frame of the mounted driver. You're listening for the noise of rushing air, it's quite distinctive.
If you hear it you have a leak you need to fix.

If you don't hear any, put the access cover on and run the hose end around the access cover, and as many joints in the cab as you can get the hose end to reach.
Same again, if you hear a noise, you have to fix it...

[ondasticks]

Ok I thought tone generator was a program or is it an electrical tool because I own multimeter but not a tone generator

[sine143]

anything that can generate a sine wave will do. Audacity is free, and will allow you to make hour long files and load onto your mp3 player or whatever so that you can feed them through your mixer to your amplifier.

do you have a sprayer/ do you know how to spray duratex?

[Grant Bunter]

Ok I thought tone generator was a program or is it an electrical tool because I own multimeter but not a tone generator

It can be either:
A programme, (as sine143 says, Audacity is an example, there are others)
Or it can be a box/electrical tool, made to generate tones.

[ondasticks]

Ok here's where I'm confused I went online and downloaded a 30hz mp3 it's basically not even audible except when the looped recording starts again. Now what do I do I got a jack from my ipad to my line input in mixer now what do I do please explain step by step for me I'm really anxious to break the drivers in and finish my 1st build

[sine143]

its not suppossed to be audible. its just suppossed to move the cone about 3/8ths of an inch, for 12 hours. Ipad to mixer line, to power amp, to speaker. turn the gain up until you either measure 10 volts on the 200 ac setting of your multimeter on the amp terminals, or until you have adequate excursion. given this is your first time, I would measure. DONT jack the gain up too high.

[ondasticks]

Sorry guys I'm sorry if I come off as a blonde but the only dumb questions are those never asked better to be safe than sorry these drivers were a pretty penny and I'm not trying to blow them So here I am tell me if I'm right or wrong my 30 hz mp3 is ready to go do I buy pass my crossover and eq settings? Where do put the multimeter red and black to?To amp terminals that speaker are hooked up too speaker out ? Or where

[Bruce Weldy]

Sorry guys I'm sorry if I come off as a blonde but the only dumb questions are those never asked better to be safe than sorry these drivers were a pretty penny and I'm not trying to blow them So here I am tell me if I'm right or wrong my 30 hz mp3 is ready to go do I buy pass my crossover and eq settings? Where do put the multimeter red and black to?To amp terminals that speaker are hooked up too speaker out ? Or where

It doesn't really matter how you get the signal there as long as it's there. I always use an old power amp straight from my PC. Test the output at the speaker outputs of the power amp. Don't even attach the speakers yet. When the output (with the 30hz signal of course) reaches 10 volts on your meter - you are there. Now hook up the speakers and start the buzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz.

[escapemcp]

Sorry guys I'm sorry if I come off as a blonde but the only dumb questions are those never asked better to be safe than sorry these drivers were a pretty penny and I'm not trying to blow them So here I am tell me if I'm right or wrong my 30 hz mp3 is ready to go do I buy pass my crossover and eq settings? Where do put the multimeter red and black to?To amp terminals that speaker are hooked up too speaker out ? Or where

1) Measure your 10V signal at the amp with the 30Hz tone playing into the amp and with speakers disconnected. Note the position of the volume
2) Switch off amp and turn volume down
3) Connect up speaker... doesn't matter about positive or negative as you are only burning the driver in - as this is your first time, ALSO attach voltmeter to the speaker (one lead from voltmeter on the black and one on the red - again - doesn't matter which AT THIS STAGE, but sticking with red to red and black to black is probably a good idea and a good habit to get into.
4) SLOWLY turn up volume and you should see the volts slowly climbing on the voltmeter... you should turn the volume back to where you noted in 1) to hit 10V again... if this isn't the case, then something is wrong. DO NOT GO OVER 10V OR GO PAST WHERE YOU NOTED IN 1)... increase volume slow to ensure your driver survives!
3) The cone should move about 3/8 inch.
4) 12 hours later, switch off amp and stop 30Hz tone playng on iphone/mp3 player/cd/whatever
5) DONE..

[Grant Bunter]

Just in case it does want to make some noise, do the driver break in with the driver out of the cab...

[ondasticks]

Thank you all for the great feedback I finally broke them in my multimeter would not measure voltage until I put red on red and black on amp chassis. Thank you very much guys ill be checking for leaks tomorrow . Now would a shop vac hose work for that.i hope so

[Grant Bunter]

Thank you all for the great feedback I finally broke them in my multimeter would not measure voltage until I put red on red and black on amp chassis. Thank you very much guys ill be checking for leaks tomorrow . Now would a shop vac hose work for that.i hope so

A shop vac hose might be a bit large, cut a 3' piece of your garden hose...