TLAHx2 for HT Mains
Re: TLAHx2 for HT Mains
Ive tried to do a couple of searches for this but cant find a definitive answer.
For the cutouts on the TLAH is it better to use a router with a circle cutting jig or a set of holesaws? I have a router to use or if I go with the holesaws I have access to mills and drillpresses.
For the cutouts on the TLAH is it better to use a router with a circle cutting jig or a set of holesaws? I have a router to use or if I go with the holesaws I have access to mills and drillpresses.
Re: TLAHx2 for HT Mains
This would be personal preference. The upside of using hole saws is you can do both baffles at once on a drill press. Half the time and mirrored results.
I know money often seals the deal, but seriously, quality is an investment, not an expense... Grant Bunter
Accept the fact that airtight and well-braced are more important than pretty on the inside. Bill Fitzmaurice
Accept the fact that airtight and well-braced are more important than pretty on the inside. Bill Fitzmaurice
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Re: TLAHx2 for HT Mains
Both are a bitch to deal with. I use a jigsaw, cutting the holes about 1/8 inch small. I then make a hole template with the router to screw to the baffle on the inside, and use a pattern following bit to trim that last 1/8 inch to a perfect circle.
Re: TLAHx2 for HT Mains
I think I may buy some holesaws to cut these out. I'll use the router to do the round over afterwards.
Just to confirm the sizes for the cutouts. I will be rear mounting the woofers and tweeters.
Goldwood 4" Woofer - 3.75" cutout
Goldwood 1/2" - 1.9375" cutout
Just to confirm the sizes for the cutouts. I will be rear mounting the woofers and tweeters.
Goldwood 4" Woofer - 3.75" cutout
Goldwood 1/2" - 1.9375" cutout
Re: TLAHx2 for HT Mains
it may be difficult to find a 1-15/16" hole saw. Can I round either up or down to the nearest 1/8"
- Ian Westwood
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Re: TLAHx2 for HT Mains
This method works well for me. I recently did another version for a friend and we used autocad to figure out the centers, printed a couple of sheets to scale (made indexing marks so we'd know when the sheets were placed correctly), taped them together, taped it to a baffle and used an automatic center punch to mark the centers on the baffle through the print out.
PM me if you want the CAD file to play with.
It came out more accurate than this first try. This one I made by hand:





PM me if you want the CAD file to play with.
It came out more accurate than this first try. This one I made by hand:





Re: TLAHx2 for HT Mains
I may steal your idea of printing out the cad file and working off of that. But i may hijack the plotter in our engineering department so I can print it out fullsize.
Can someone confirm the cutout diameters for the Goldwood GW-4028/s and Goldwood GT-302/s. These will be rear mounted so I'm not sure if the listed 3 3/4" and 1 15/16" cutouts will work or not.
Can someone confirm the cutout diameters for the Goldwood GW-4028/s and Goldwood GT-302/s. These will be rear mounted so I'm not sure if the listed 3 3/4" and 1 15/16" cutouts will work or not.
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Re: TLAHx2 for HT Mains
Never cut out for drivers until you have them in hand. Even then do a test cutout on scrap wood to be sure of the fit.tmokay wrote: Can someone confirm the cutout diameters for the Goldwood GW-4028/s and Goldwood GT-302/s. These will be rear mounted so I'm not sure if the listed 3 3/4" and 1 15/16" cutouts will work or not.
Re: TLAHx2 for HT Mains
Thats probably for the best. I'm just getting too excited.
Re: TLAHx2 for HT Mains
Had a pretty productive weekend.
Picked up the wood and got all my pieces cut out. Now I just need to wait for all the components to get in. I feel like a kid on christmas eve waiting for all my toys.
Originally I was going to paint these with duratex or another black paint to get a flat black look. But after seeing this wood and working with it I realized that stain is the only way to go.
And by a happy coincidence I figured out that if I was careful with my cuts I could get all the pieces for not 2 but 4 TLAH's out of my two sheets of plywood. Now im on the fence on whether or not to order all the other components for 2 more TLAH's
Picked up the wood and got all my pieces cut out. Now I just need to wait for all the components to get in. I feel like a kid on christmas eve waiting for all my toys.
Originally I was going to paint these with duratex or another black paint to get a flat black look. But after seeing this wood and working with it I realized that stain is the only way to go.
And by a happy coincidence I figured out that if I was careful with my cuts I could get all the pieces for not 2 but 4 TLAH's out of my two sheets of plywood. Now im on the fence on whether or not to order all the other components for 2 more TLAH's
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Re: TLAHx2 for HT Mains
I used the wood cut program and it seems that you can fit 2 TLAH's per 5x5, for anyone that is interest in knowing.tmokay wrote:Had a pretty productive weekend.
Picked up the wood and got all my pieces cut out. Now I just need to wait for all the components to get in. I feel like a kid on christmas eve waiting for all my toys.
Originally I was going to paint these with duratex or another black paint to get a flat black look. But after seeing this wood and working with it I realized that stain is the only way to go.
And by a happy coincidence I figured out that if I was careful with my cuts I could get all the pieces for not 2 but 4 TLAH's out of my two sheets of plywood. Now im on the fence on whether or not to order all the other components for 2 more TLAH's
Built
2 x TLAH
1 Titan 39 (lab 12, 15 inch)
1 Tuba 60 (lab 12, 20 inch)
SLA Center
2 x Mini MLTP subwoofers
1 x 212 TH (custom)
2 x Mini-Karlsonators
Owned, but not built
2 x Jack 12 (2512, melded)
2 x TLAH
1 Titan 39 (lab 12, 15 inch)
1 Tuba 60 (lab 12, 20 inch)
SLA Center
2 x Mini MLTP subwoofers
1 x 212 TH (custom)
2 x Mini-Karlsonators
Owned, but not built
2 x Jack 12 (2512, melded)
Re: TLAHx2 for HT Mains
I got the speakers in and now i need to start making some holes.
Question for the experienced woodworkers out there. I want to get some hole saws to cut out all the driver holes but I'm not sure on the size. For the Goldwood woofers the cone diameter just to the edge of the mounting bracket is 3.75". If I use a 3.75" hole saw how much material will it cut away? Will the resulting hole be 3.75" or slightly larger? I am just worried because a 3.75" hole is pretty darn close to where the mouting screws will need to go. Would it be better to get a 3.625" hole saw to leave more wood for the mounting screws to grab into? Any advice would be greatly appreciated because I'm still a woodworking beginner.
Question for the experienced woodworkers out there. I want to get some hole saws to cut out all the driver holes but I'm not sure on the size. For the Goldwood woofers the cone diameter just to the edge of the mounting bracket is 3.75". If I use a 3.75" hole saw how much material will it cut away? Will the resulting hole be 3.75" or slightly larger? I am just worried because a 3.75" hole is pretty darn close to where the mouting screws will need to go. Would it be better to get a 3.625" hole saw to leave more wood for the mounting screws to grab into? Any advice would be greatly appreciated because I'm still a woodworking beginner.
Re: TLAHx2 for HT Mains
Or it might be better to buy both sizes and then do some test cuts. I was just trying to save a couple bucks by only buying one hole saw for the woofers.
Re: TLAHx2 for HT Mains
After measuring the woofers some more i decided to go with the 3 5/8" hole saw. This will give me a little more room when screwing the woofers into the baffle.
I also noticed that the outside dimension on the 4028's is 4.410" not the specified 4.375". I will be spacing these at 4.5" to give a little room inbetween the frames on each woofer.
I also noticed that the outside dimension on the 4028's is 4.410" not the specified 4.375". I will be spacing these at 4.5" to give a little room inbetween the frames on each woofer.
Re: TLAHx2 for HT Mains
when mounting the speakers the plans say to use a bathtub caulk to seal the drivers to the baffle. Is there any specific type of caulk I should use? Maybe someone could recommend one I could get from a big box store.