Questions about DBX Driverack PA+

[KTOKTO]

I am thinking about movning to a dbx driverack PA+ to replace my current manual setup.

I am still in the research and learning phase but have a couple questions. I see the DBX wizards have tunings for commercial speakers, subs, and amps. However, the only piece of equipment I am using that is in the supplied tunings is for a QSC gx3 amp.

I am running two omnitop 15s with melded array and one Titan48. The tops are powered by a behringer ep2000 that isn't in the dbx listed tunings either.

My question, is it going to be a pain for me to tune the driverack with this custom setup is it possible for someone who is new to all of this to properly set this up.

If anyone can point me to some links or reference to a solution it would be greatly appreciated.

[Drey Chennells]

The factory settings are mostly irrelevant for our purposes, more geared to your basic powered low fi systems. Your amps don't need to be recognized by the dbx, you need custom settings. Setting the driverack to properly process your system should be quite easy compared to other units, the programming is intuitive. The dbx forum is more helpful than most for basic and advanced tuning.

[rec]

ktokto, I use a DRPA+ for 2 OT12's and 2 T30 subs. Like Drey said the factory presets are not worth much. You will do a custom setup (again like Drey said see the DBX forum) they are a wealth of knowledge. Make sure you do the reading at the "start here" section. The only down side to the DRPA+ is that it does not have a brick wall limiter. I have never had a problem as now one else touches my system and I don't have to run it maxed out due to the efficient BF cabs. Supposedly the DRPA+ has a better EQ than the DR260 & older DRPA. Dont let the custom setup scare you away as it is pretty easy once you figure out what you are setting.
Good luck
Richard

[thekl0wn]

This is reassuring since a DRPA+ was going to potentially be my next purchase! Good info.

Dumb question that may or may not affect the OP, but I'll ask it here anyway. One thing I've not played around with yet on the store demos: Can the compressors, limiters, EQ's, X-overs, etc all be bypassed and/or turned off? At the current time, I may not have a real need for all of the functionality, but soon I plan to use it.

[Bruce Weldy]

The only down side to the DRPA+ is that it does not have a brick wall limiter.

That technically may be true, but when I set my limiters and hammer the input all the way into the red - voltage doesn't go past my setting....so, I feel like it's pretty safe.

[rec]

That technically may be true, but when I set my limiters and hammer the input all the way into the red - voltage doesn't go past my setting....so, I feel like it's pretty safe.

Me to!
I have never had any probs with my DRPA+
All of the dynamics do have an OFF option as that is part the "setting gain structure" instructions that you can find on DBX's web site. They have you set all dynamics to off while setting proper gain structure.

[KTOKTO]

ktokto, I use a DRPA+ for 2 OT12's and 2 T30 subs. Like Drey said the factory presets are not worth much. You will do a custom setup (again like Drey said see the DBX forum) they are a wealth of knowledge. Make sure you do the reading at the "start here" section. The only down side to the DRPA+ is that it does not have a brick wall limiter. I have never had a problem as now one else touches my system and I don't have to run it maxed out due to the efficient BF cabs. Supposedly the DRPA+ has a better EQ than the DR260 & older DRPA. Dont let the custom setup scare you away as it is pretty easy once you figure out what you are setting.
Good luck
Richard

Thanks Richard, thats good to hear. Now hopefully I will be able to track down all the information I will need to program in to the dbx. I know I'll need crossover frequency and gains but beyond that, I'm stumped.

[rec]

My first recomendation is to sit with just the DRPA+ in hand and go over the menus, over and over again. This will get you comfortable with where you
are at. Sort of like reading the speaker plans over and over. Once you can navigate turn off all of your dynamics (compressor, eq, etc...) and set your gain structure and limiter as per the DBX forum. I cannot tell you how many times I have read the "Start here" section. You will need a volt meter. Make sure you use a sine wave to set your gain structure as opposed to pink noise. Once you have your gain structure set then you can start on the x-over, eq, etc.
Remember if sounds good to you then it probably sounds good to the people you are playing for. I made a EQ mistake thinking more is better for subs. I had the frequencies 100 and below bumped up quite a bit and my bass was very muddy. I brought them back to flat and then started bumping one at a time and I think I only have 100 bumped about 2.5 to 3 db and the bass just came alive. Went from muddy to tight. So trust your ears. Remember that gain structure/limiter is the most important thing so you dont damage your drivers.

[loudsubz]

Sorry to bump an old thread but curious on the "use a sine wave" for setting gains opposed to pink noise as stated in the start here.

I see 2 sides to the story, anymore info?

[Bruce Weldy]

Sorry to bump an old thread but curious on the "use a sine wave" for setting gains opposed to pink noise as stated in the start here.

I see 2 sides to the story, anymore info?

Without going through the whole thread, I'm assuming you are talking about setting limiters?

If so, a test tone will give you a specific frequency. This is what you want as this will duplicate the low notes that cause the most excursion to the sub. I use 60hz for the T39s.

Pink noise give you the whole spectrum - not useful in setting limiters for subs.

If you are talking about something else......nevermind.

[loudsubz]

Yes I was talking about that Thanks!

As far as setting limiters on the tops, I have read 1khz is the standard, but wouldn't using a lower freq thats just above the HP crossover for the tops be a better idea since more power would be used at the lower freq than the 1khz?

[DJPhatman]

As far as setting limiters on the tops, I have read 1khz is the standard, but wouldn't using a lower freq thats just above the HP crossover for the tops be a better idea since more power would be used at the lower freq than the 1khz?

There is no real need to set limiters for tops, as you will hear them distort. We limit the subs because you will not hear them distort.

If this is a rig that you, or another responsible person, will NOT be in control of, like a rental rig, then set your limiters 10-20Hz above the low-pass frequency. Then, password protect it.

[byacey]

It also doesn't hurt to drop the limiter threshold by a few dB as a margin of safety in the event of overshoot. There isn't much difference in level between a 104dB or 106dB ceiling.

I think it's a good idea to have a limiter on the tops too. It could possibly save them in the event of a mishap, or somebody doing something stupid.

[Bruce Weldy]

I think it's a good idea to have a limiter on the tops too. It could possibly save them in the event of a mishap, or somebody doing something stupid.

If you are listening from FOH, you can hear them farting out.....if you are onstage running sound, you just don't know. Limiting is a good idea - I think I'm going to do it. Just not sure where to limit for OT12s with 2512 drivers.

Claim is 250 watts. But I don't think I'd want to give 'em that much. 200 watts is 40 volts....that seem right? Any ideas on this?

[byacey]

What's the maximum recommended SPL for those boxes? You could always monitor the amp with a voltmeter while measuring the box with an SPL meter. Run them up to 100dB outside, note the readings and extrapolate.

Bill FM has probably worked out the limit voltage for these.