DR250 build and initial test - by a bassplayer

[andy73]

I just got done with my DR250 build. I had no prior woodworking experience but figured I may as well give it a try! I had access to a skill saw, table saw, cordless drill, a very old jigsaw, as well as misc files and other hand tools.

If you are a determined person do not let this project scare you away. I took my time, went step by step, modified and fudged here and there and came out with an acceptable product (as far as build quality).

The biggest issue I ran into was bending the wood around the back. I broke multiple pieces of wood trying to do it. Frustrated (at my inability as a woodworker) I decided there was more than one way to skin a cat. So I took 1/4" instead of 1/8" and cut it into strips of a little less than 3/4". I then glued and nailed these around the back (veritcally) to get my bend. After I had them all in place I filled all the gaps with PL glue. By that time in the game I realized that this was already a very stable structure, so I just continued on the sides with 1/4" instead of 1/2". I guess we'll see if that turns out to be a mistake or not. Since I used 1/4" on the back I did not box in it, I left the "butt cheeks".

I used the MCM driver and a full bank of cut and glued square piezos. I installed a switch to turn tweeters on and off as well as two 1/4" jacks. It is carpeted (to hide my woodworking ability!) I have not put handles on it yet. The final weight on my bathroom scale is 36-37 lbs.

On my initial trial I thought the speaker was "farting out". Upon closer inspection I think it is an airleak around my tweeters (still need to fix). I did not think that my tweeter seal was that big of a deal because the box is ported.... wrong.

I am playing it through a mesa 400+ at my house. Volume on 1 and just about knocking stuff off the walls. I have a steelsound 2 x 12 cabinet to A/B with. The 2x12 actaully has a lot more of the bottom end than the DR250, but once you get above that level there is no comparison. Bringing the bass eq up on the DR250 helps a lot. I'm just not used to doing that. As bass players we are always being told to avoid the "smiley face" eq. I am guessing that because the response is so good above 100hz it is necessary to do this to hear any of the bottom end.

The upper lows and above are amazing. The sound is very open and clear. I told my wife that after playing the DR250, the 2 x 12 sounds like it has a cold.... undefined, fuzzy. You better brush up on your chops because every nuance comes out through the speaker! I personally liked it with tweeters off and high frequencies on the head turned up.

As far as overall volume, the 8 ohm DR 250 is definitely louder than the 4 ohm 2 x 12.

So as a stand alone bass cab that cost me less than $200 it will work great. A little shy on the very low end although it is not specifically designed to do this. My next step.......t39 because low end is the only thing I find lacking.

Would I do it again? Yes - but the O12/15 looks like a very tempting alternative for someone with my woodworking credentials....

If any of you with little experience like myself have any questions please feel free to shoot them my way. If anyone is interested in hearing/playing through, I am in Temecula, CA between San Diego and LA.

[andy73]

I downsized from the Mesa to an Eden WT300. The DR really shines using this head! I would now pick the DR over my 2 x 12 as a stand alone for a small gig. Through the eden the DR is VERY punchy. I think that is because Edens are known for a low mid hump which I believe is around 100 to 150 hz.....where the DR really starts to take shape.

I can get an old school sound with the tweeters turned off and the highs turned up a little, or a very potent modern sound with the tweeters on and the highs on the amp flat.

It really is amazing to me how different this sounds through a different head. I guess I can attribute that to my lack of experience.

Basically I now give this cab 2 thumbs up instead of one!