Alternative to tee-nuts?

[fender3x]

I decided to use tee-nuts on the access cover of my t-39... Boy did that idea suck. Threads stripped. Wood stripped. I ended up having to break the access panel around one of the screws and cut the top of the screw off with an angle grinder...also taking quarter inch square of skin of my knuckle in the process.

I know some people epoxy tee nuts, and I suppose I could do that, but they can still strip...and there is the mess and (in my ham-handed case) the great potential of getting epoxy in the threads.

So, I started to think about just using screws as an alternative...and wondering if the 1/2" rim around the edge of the access panel would be enough to hold the panel in place and air-tight.

That's when I thought of my old friend the dowel. I have some "Wolfcraft" 1/2" hardwood dowel pins. They are splined to absorb glue, and 1.25" long. If I drill out the existing screw holes to 1/2" from my previous tee-nut adventure I can put the dowels in with some PL, and then drill a small pilot hole in the dowel for a woodscrew. The screw should have wood to bite into for it's whole length.

This seems simpler, less messy and more idiot-proof than trying the tee-nut thing again... Of course I am well on my way to proving that there is nothing absolutely idiot proof.

Any thoughts?

[Bill Fitzmaurice]

I use Parts Express Hurricane nuts, which are higher quality than TNuts. I also have a 10/32 tap and die handy to chase threads on any suspect nuts or bolts, I only drive them by hand, and never force them if they bind. Drywall screws are OK too, I prefer bolts as I typically will go into the chamber three or four times when doing a prototype.

[fender3x]

I use Parts Express Hurricane nuts, which are higher quality than TNuts.

(http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl ... r=081-1082)

aka



They are not only better than what I used, they're also cheaper....oy! These don't look like they would be as prone to popping out of the wood as the ones I used...



If they look like these little spikey suckers, I'd avoid them.

Drywall screws are OK too, I prefer bolts as I typically will go into the chamber three or four times when doing a prototype.

I will probably go with the screws for this build. I don't plan to go in again unless I pop the driver...and at this stage i figure that if I strip a screw hole, I can always just bore out the hole and replace the dowel...or even just fill it with toothpics and glue. But will order those hurricane nuts for future builds.

Will definitely screw them in by hand, however. Must remember that just because I have a power tool does not mean I have to use it...

[LelandCrooks]

Avoid the spike style. What always happens to me is one of the spikes doesn't drive and flattens.

Here's the best way I've found to install the hurricane nuts. Put a dab of epoxy on the nut. Use a hex head cap screw with a fender washer. Put it through the hole, start it on the tee nut. Spin the nut up to the wood. Drive the rest of the BY HAND with a t handle hex wrench. The tricky part is not over driving. You can generate a lot of force with the t handle and twist the tee nut in the hole. Just past tight is how I would describe it. Even if yoy do spin it a little the expoxy will hold it. I use 5 min epoxy so to install 8 nuts makes you move pretty fast. When it's dry, run the 10/32 tap through, just as Bill suggested.

[AcousticChris]

Sorry I'm late.

Here's what I used on the driver flange in my T39.

http://www.ezlok.com/Home/index.html

I used the rightmost inserts and they worked ok. They won't push out like t-nuts but they do require some alignment during insertion. Next time I will use stainless versions that are available at woodcraft stores since they are slightly tougher than the plated zinc version shown in the photo.

[Tim A]

Hurricane nuts will pop out too, it's all in the handling. If the threads are suspect clean them with a tap. Do not drive them in, pull then in with a bolt. Place a dab of glue on each one when you draw it in.

[Harley]

Hurricane nuts will pop out too, it's all in the handling. If the threads are suspect clean them with a tap. Do not drive them in, pull then in with a bolt. Place a dab of glue on each one when you draw it in.

Bang on....well in this case 'pull on'

Harley

[Strapping Young Stu]

Ive never had any problem driving Tee nuts true into the wood, I make sure I seat the bolt in the nut from the other side just enough that it holds it in place, then place a piece of wood over the nut to stop it denting then hammer the piece of wood, pushing the nut squarely into the hole.

Easy and so far 100% successful.

I then do up the bolt nice and tight to make sure that the tee nut is well into the wood. Never had a nut slip.

As I recall I have tended to drill holes for the tee nuts with a 5mm bit and use a 6mm nut, which means it goes in extra tight.

Stu

[Harley]

As I recall I have tended to drill holes for the tee nuts with a 5mm bit and use a 6mm nut, which means it goes in extra tight.

I use M5 Tee nuts and a 5mm drill.

I have some pics down at work on the method I use, I'll post these soon.

Harley

[mchildree]

It really makes a difference for me to inspect the T-nuts closely before you drive them in. Make sure all the spikes are perfectly straight...I've had many of them with the spikes already leaning inwards, and those are invariably the ones that flatten out without sinking into the wood.

[fender3x]

New build, and determined to do it right this time.

I use Parts Express Hurricane nuts, which are higher quality than TNuts.

(http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl ... r=081-1082)

aka

I am using the "hurricane nuts" from PE, pictured above, for the first time. Am planning to use gorilla glue with them. My question is about how big a whole to use. Aussies and Brits seem to use 5mm drill bits... But since all my tools are in the more primitive fractions of inches, I am wondering what drill bit others use to put these babies in. My trial and error approach found 15/16" about right...is that what other's have used?

[Frankenspeakers]

According to my caliper the 10-32 hurricane nutz are about .250 (1/4") basic diameter. I assume that you meant 15/64" drill size. You can use any size bit between that and 1/4". especially if you use a dab of epoxy on the shaft of the nut (don' git none on de threads). Sizes B,C, D, are a tad smaller than 1/4" and a smidgeon larger than 15/64" E is exactly .250 (1/4") the little 'wings' will grab the wood firmly especially if its a hardwood. Anything (wood) softer than BB should be fitted as tight as possible, and epoxied to boot. If you have access to McMaster-Carr, the same nut is called a propell nut.

[fender3x]

I assume that you meant 15/64" drill size.

Yup, that's what I meant.

Thanks! I am using pine plywood, so I will stick with the slightly smaller than 1/4" size.

[Bill Fitzmaurice]

I use 1/4", too tight and you wipe all the glue off the shaft.

[fender3x]

Will try 1/4" in the morning. Thanks!