Help please: Spinning Hurricane nuts

[DJ Nada]

I'm in the final stages of my SLA Pro build, and I have a problem. I'm trying to bolt in the speakers, but it's spinning the hurricane nuts. Will gluing them in work? Maybe a little graphite on the bolts?

Also, a few notes on the plans: Why no cut sheet? Shouldn't the plans mention wiring everything up before the box is completely built?

[Michael Ewald Hansen]

I'm in the final stages of my SLA Pro build, and I have a problem. I'm trying to bolt in the speakers, but it's spinning the hurricane nuts. Will gluing them in work? Maybe a little graphite on the bolts?

Also, a few notes on the plans: Why no cut sheet? Shouldn't the plans mention wiring everything up before the box is completely built?

Always use epoxy on hurricane/tnuts so they wont spin.

You dont really need a cutsheet for such few parts, its easy to lay them out yourself.. If thats too much for you, use: http://www.delphiforfun.org/programs/cutlist.htm

[DJ Nada]

Alright then, off to Home Depot for some epoxy and black caulk. Thanks for the quick reply.

[la malta]

I epoxied and they still spun. I swore off using them ever again. I use the 6 prong 1/4-20 t-nuts from partsexpress. Never had a problem.

[Bruce Weldy]

I epoxied and they still spun. I swore off using them ever again. I use the 6 prong 1/4-20 t-nuts from partsexpress. Never had a problem.

You used real two-part epoxy?

[Harley]

I I use the 6 prong 1/4-20 t-nuts from partsexpress. Never had a problem.

Those should be epoxied as well - never put them in without epoxy glue, you're going to regret it one day if you omit that.

[Rune Bivrin]

I I use the 6 prong 1/4-20 t-nuts from partsexpress. Never had a problem.

Those should be epoxied as well - never put them in without epoxy glue, you're going to regret it one day if you omit that.

What purpose does that serve, beyond keeping the T-nut from falling out on initial threading? I've never done it and don't intend to ever do it. I can see the value of a small wood screw to keep it from falling out, but the epoxy just seems like a good way to mess up the threads.

[sine143]

thread the bolt through the hurricane nut, and then epoxy it into the hole. after about half the epoxy cure time has elapsed you can gently tighten the bolt to break any epoxy that may have made it into the threading (although none should have if you put the bolt in before applying epoxy).

I had to slap together my last t48. hurricane nuts on all the driver bolts are epoxied, but I actually installed hurricane nuts for the access panel and forgot to epoxy them. I'm scare.

[Harley]

What purpose does that serve, beyond keeping the T-nut from falling out on initial threading?

Of the ( roughly ) 100 cabs I have built, not one has spun and more importantly, not one has spun if the driver has been moved later on . It's the unscrewing of the bolt where there's most likely to be a problem, less so in the tightening because of the way the T Nut is made.

Anhow I'm getting tired of repeating the same old message - if you guys want to take the risks, go knock yourselves out.

http://billfitzmaurice.info/forum/viewt ... Ut#p192850

[Rune Bivrin]

What purpose does that serve, beyond keeping the T-nut from falling out on initial threading?

Of the ( roughly ) 100 cabs I have built, not one has spun and more importantly, not one has spun if the driver has been moved later on . It's the unscrewing of the bolt where there's most likely to be a problem, less so in the tightening because of the way the T Nut is made.

Anhow I'm getting tired of repeating the same old message - if you guys want to take the risks, go knock yourselves out.

http://billfitzmaurice.info/forum/viewt ... Ut#p192850

That's pretty good stats, and hard to argue against. I can see how them falling out on a later driver change would be a major PITA, but wouldn't the blocking screw alone be enough for that?

[Harley]

but wouldn't the blocking screw alone be enough for that?

You have to epoxy in the locking screw to prevent any chance of the screw coming loose due to vibration over time in any case ande there's no way to use a lock washer with those screws. Belts and braces yes, but in 10 years time, my customer can change a driver if they need to without any pain and I get to sleep peacefully

[bassmonster]

I had a hurricane nut spin on my dual TT, and I had two-part epoxied it with the stuff Leland gave me and everything. I had tapped the nuts in position with a small mallet. I think that was what loosened them enough to spin even with epoxy.
I now use JB Weld on my hurricane nuts, it's two-part as well and is super strong. I used JB Weld once to attach a broken essential load-bearing bracket onto my weed whacker, hasn't broke yet! I <3 JB Weld!

[LelandCrooks]

Don't hammer hurricanes! Bolt and washer, pull them into place with the bolt. Epoxy on the barrel. Never spun one. But you also don't need to be Godzilla on the hex wrench. If you hear a pop when installing after it dries, STOP PULLING.

[mr.lussier]

+1. Hammering hurricane nuts has to be the quickest route to a spinning bolt. When I built my cabs I didn't think about the epoxy trick, so they're not glued at all. I used 1/4 h-nuts (probably overkill) in baltic birch (can't speak for softer woods). I tried many drill bits in 1/64 increments in scrap wood to find the tightest possible fit (can't remember which one). I did many tests in scrap plywood including torquing bolts 5 times harder than required and got no signs of flinching at all. They must be designed to be used on their own, I guess proper installation is the key.

Of course, if you build cabs for money harley's method is good insurance, and has the advantage of using t-nuts from your local hardware store.