DR 200 build, yep even the shameful pictures

[hilo4noff]

super glue to the guides?... Ok, I'll do it, but will that soak in or something or is this just a surface treatment?

I was also thinking of doing like a rubbing or tracing of each complete guide so in case i ever inherit a plasma torch I could cut out a metal template to inlay in the side, or even a rectangle plexiglass of 1/2" thickness should my wooden concoction fail. For that matter I could just do a 1/4 inch hardwood rectangle inlay. We'll see how they hold up to the use next summer

Keep in mind that 2 per side was about the extent of what I planned on having (as far as tops go).

[N.Webber]

super glue to the guides?... Ok, I'll do it, but will that soak in or something or is this just a surface treatment?

The superglue will soak about 1-2 mm into the wood, so it is a little more than a 'surface treatment'.
It does a very good job preventing the edges from de-laminating or breaking as it turns the treated area into 'wood reinforced superglue'...
I use this 'trick' occasionally on delicate wood objects and it works great. Do a test on some scrap piece and test the results for yourself.

[hilo4noff]

Getting back at it! This winter has been spent suffering every little damn ding the soft plywood could absorb from seamingly anything that even thought about denting the exterior surfaces of my cabinets. For this reason alone I'll never use anything softer for the exterior surface of the cabs than the recomended baltic birch. What a pain, filling and filling and sanding to the threshold of permanent nerve damage in my paws...

Another trick picked up was that although dark tinted primer sealer might save on duratex quantity, the plain old white stuff made finding the little dings to be fixed much easier.

Then after going through about 10 cans of flat black spray paint, and getting crappy coverage (actually on the cabinet anyway) I decided to try a quart of this rustoleum ultra cover premium latex paint to flat blacken every thing up. WOW what a difference. So much easier, really a one coat coverage even over the chalk white sealer, over the bondo and such. At about 7 bucks a quart, the first quart completely covered the pair of t-48's and the innards of the 4 drs. Bought another quart that will get me the rest of the way for the black base coat on everything.

Wired up all my piezo arrays. The el cheapo 5 dollar soldering iron worked just fine. The two 16 arrays and two eights took just about 23 feet of the 25 foot roll of 20 gauge speaker wire I bought for the project.

With the drs I really underestimated the amount of really careful work time on the putting it all together stage of finishing them up. I could build another set of t-48s while waiting on my crossovers and duratex delivery. Which I think I'm going to do actually.

[bassmonster]

For this reason alone I'll never use anything softer for the exterior surface of the cabs than the recomended baltic birch. What a pain, filling and filling and sanding to the threshold of permanent nerve damage in my paws...

+1. Duratex is great but it's the stuff under it that counts, even Duratexed cabs are still vulnerable to the dinging damage of me accidentally knocking a cab against the edge of the workbench.