that old awesome flat-pack DR200 thread

[mattaudio]

I can't seem to find it! I've searched and searched and searched. Can someone help me out?

I'd like to use the photos to show a potential client with a barn what the DRs would look like with natural wood finish. I think they'd melt right in to the walls of the barn, especially if I paint the piezo throats brown as well.

[Gregory East]

It seems to have gone the big internet graveyard. Anomalous might do a review thread that will be perpetual. That's the problem with build threads, they drop off after a year of no new posts.

[Bill Fitzmaurice]

That's the problem with build threads, they drop off after a year of no new posts.

Build threads are kept forever, as are reviews, tips and educational links. Chit chat is eventually purged.

[Gregory East]

I'm pretty sure it was Anomalous who did the write up on some flash timber laser cut dr200. It's not to be found.

[Bill Fitzmaurice]

If you want to see what a DR looks like unpainted look at the Sketchup model.

[horst]

That's a bit of a pity that it is gone, there were some good points made
anyway here is a picture I took last year with the telephone

[bassmonster]

User "mudbwetdirt" (iirc) made some DR200s for his HT and left them natural wood finish. That thread is still alive I believe, I found it on here a couple of weeks ago.

[mattaudio]

Man those look good. Would it be crazy to leave a natural stain finish on some DRs if I build them for my own PA use? or do people expect black?

[bassmonster]

Man those look good. Would it be crazy to leave a natural stain finish on some DRs if I build them for my own PA use? or do people expect black?

What about durability? I would think a natural finished DR would take damage more than a Duratexed cab.

[Drey Chennells]

Man those look good. Would it be crazy to leave a natural stain finish on some DRs if I build them for my own PA use? or do people expect black?

What about durability? I would think a natural finished DR would take damage more than a Duratexed cab.

We've done a T60 with sealer and tung oil, holding up very well for a mobile dj system we built a couple months ago. With rails and casters it moves in and out of his truck easily and still looks new. People do expect black but they also expect the same crap systems they always hear. With the right hardware it still looks professional, just different.

[anomalous]

If people want me to, I can post the construction and finished photos of the lasercut dr200 to the build forum. To date only the one 'proof of concept' Dr200 was built, but the project is still alive, just waiting for me to have the time to redraw the model in Solidworks.

the build photos from the thread that got wiped are here : http://www.users.on.net/~flippy/DR200-LC/

[Gregory East]

Yeah, go on. This here in "everything else" will be lost again.

[osse]

What's the chance one could take part of the files used with the CNC/Laser cutter, and if that's the case, approx in what timeframe?

[horst]

Well we did talk about this at length in the other thread, it will be easier and faster for you to draw your own cut sheet from scratch, there are enough clues in the pictures Anomolousus (Ben) posted to help you, the problem is that it is highly dependant on the thickness of the plywood.

[Slim]

Hi. Can I ask a few questions re the laser cutting project?

In general, what is the thickness of the laser cut? If you have an insert (a tab?) that will go into a slot, is the slot drawn 1/2 a mm larger that the tab? Or if you provided the drawings with the tab and slot the same dimensions, would the "thickness" of the cut be enough to get a good seal with the help of the PL polyurethane adhesive?

Also, I can figure out from my DR200 plans where pretty much everything from the picture in the link here goes:

http://www.users.on.net/~flippy/DR200-LC/parts.jpg

Except for one: is there an extra horn support/surround on the top row, in between the top/bottom and the sides?

Thanks,

M

edited to add this from a faq section of a local laser cutter:
How do I get my materials to fit together or interlock?
If you are designing an object with parts that interlock, you will want the thickness of the material to be exact. In the real world, natural materials are not exact. Materials can be up to .5mm greater or less than the specified thickness. This is called tolerance. For example, a 6mm acrylic may actually be 6.2mm thick (+0.2mm) or 5.8mm (-0.2mm). This will impact how your parts fit together. Because material thicknesses vary, it may take a prototype (or two) to figure out how to make your product perfectly.

Also be aware that the laser cutter will burn away some of the material along the cutting line. This varies depending on the depth the cut needs to be. In other words, the thicker the material, the slower the laser moves and the more material lost. This loss is likely to be in the region of 0.1 to 0.2mm. Each material you use will have a different 'tolerance'.