Dual Loaded Table Tuba by a Teenager

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bassmonster
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Re: Dual Loaded Table Tuba by a Teenager

#256 Post by bassmonster »

CoronaOperator wrote:
bassmonster wrote:. It seems to surround you instead of :slap: .
Now you know what all the fuss is about with horns. Super clean, effortless heaven. Like a big warm fuzzy hug.
:loler:

I just don't understand how it can brutally shake things off the walls and shelves, but it doesn't like, digest my food or anything. I can't wait to see how she performs in the car.

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Radian
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Location: Tucson, AZ

Re: Dual Loaded Table Tuba by a Teenager

#257 Post by Radian »

bassmonster wrote: It's not quite the cognizant punch that direct radiators give, but it's definitely immense. It seems to surround you instead of :slap: .
That's because, as you are now experiencing, the frequencies associated with what is known colloquially as "punch" lie just above the typical subwoofer pass band in the 100-250 Hz region.

Direct radiator subs pelt out all kinds of that stuff, when it really should be the mains sole responsibility.
Good food, good people, good times.

4 - AT
1 - TT
1 - THT Slim
2 - SLA Pro 4x6 Alphalite

CoronaOperator
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Location: Medicine Hat, Alberta, Canada

Re: Dual Loaded Table Tuba by a Teenager

#258 Post by CoronaOperator »

bassmonster wrote:... digest my food or anything. I can't wait to see how she performs in the car.
Once you experience transfer function in your vehicle it will :twisted:! You'll be able to cancel any massage therapy appointments you may have, the bass will do it for you. That's a good thing because you"ll need the bass to massage out your sore neck from shoulder checking all the time because your rear view mirror will rotate straight down and side view mirrors will be all but useless vibrating decorations.
Built:
17" width 10" driver Autotuba
2 x 29" width dual Lab12 Tuba60
6 x DR250 2510/asd1001
In progress:
2 x DR250 2510/asd1001
For best results, point the loud end of the array towards the audience

bassmonster
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Re: Dual Loaded Table Tuba by a Teenager

#259 Post by bassmonster »

Well, I broke down and brought the TT into my room and corner loaded and hooked her up to the rest of my system, I crossed the sub at 110hz and the mains at 125hz with a wide slope. I had planned to wait to move the TT into my room until it was painted and Duratexed, but I couldn't resist. On a side note, my small room has terrible room modes, the bass is almost nonexistent in the middle of the room (no bueno), but is immense in the corners. Anyway, I then proceeded to play some Mord Fustang house music at war volume. Remember what I said about it not digesting my food?
it doesn't like, digest my food or anything.
Boy, was I wrong. :twisted:

I played it at only 1/3 volume, anything else would have alarmed the entire neighborhood. Next to the sub, everything on me was dancing like it was alive. The hair on my arms and legs felt like it was being blown around by a leaf blower, and my eyes felt like they were being pressed into my head with my thumbs. The bass was resonating inside my chest with a reverberation, that feeling I've always searched for since a loud concert years ago. I'm 100% sure that this could cause nausea after a short while. I only listened for 5 minutes and felt a little sick, though this was just from the evil happiness I got out of finally getting to play this monster at war volume. :twisted: :mrgreen: The drywall opposite the horn mouth was visibly fluctuating about 1/16", and things on my desk were walking across the surface. I then went into the next room. The plates hanging on the wall were visibly bouncing off the walls about 1/3", it was like the Hulk was slamming the palms of his hands on the opposite wall. I then went outside to see how loud it was outside. The gutters on the opposite side of the house were vibrating like crazy, and so were the front lights at the front door. I went over to where my room was (my room is downstairs). The window was visibly vibrating, and the side panels of the house felt like they were about to crack with vibration, and the gutters on this side of the house were shaking like there was an earthquake.

This project has been a complete success for me, but for all the lurkers reading this that hope to do something similar, read and heed:

First: This project is not practical in a quiet suburban neighborhood such as the one I live in (Germantown TN, a suburb of Memphis). This sub will never go above 1/3 of its volume potential, it really creates that much noise outside the house. If this thing doesn't get the cops called within 20 minutes of blasting it at a house party, I'd be shocked. For nice low and loud bass in a suburban neighborhood a single loaded T18 or AT would be more than enough. I picked the TT because of its low end extension for the dubstep and DnB I like, which commonly drops below 40hz. And the TT hasn't missed a note yet.

Second: This thing can do property damage, right on par with Gregory East's predictions. At full volume I would expect damage to the drywall, and certainly damage to things falling of shelves, etc. I get things falling off shelves at 1/3 volume corner loaded, and stuff around the house is walking on the shelves as well. (Forgot to measure the average voltage at 1/3 volume, sorry.)

Third: This thing is big. If you want low and loud you have to go big, this was the sacrifice I made for getting the lower extension of the TT. Pictures can't prepare you for its size, but a cardboard model can. I would highly suggest building one (again right on par with everyone else's predictions); I did not make one, and was greatly surprised by its massive bulk once it was finished. I can't even imagine how big a 36" wide THT is.

Fourth: Listen to the advice of the fellow forum members here. As Radian once told me, "No one here is handing you a line of bull." These guys know what they're talking about. They share their similar experiences and what works and what doesn't. My build was much quicker and easier with the help of the forum members to discuss tips and tricks I would not have found out otherwise. The plans provide a construction process geared towards those who do not have many tools at their disposal, and those who aren't good woodworkers. The forum members here provide tips for those who want an easier or faster way to do things if they have the right tools, skills, experience, etc.

Fifth: Although this horn box is definitely not as easy to build as a sealed or ported enclosure, it is not much more difficult, and the rewards are huge. The TT is a pretty straightforward and simple construction process, as long as you are careful, measure twice cut once, be accurate, and Follow The Plans. The TT is rated as a 3 for build difficulty on the main page. For comparison: I am a teenager in high school with not much time on my hands, and I was able to build this in less than two months, with a table saw, circular saw, jigsaw, electric screwdriver/drill, a box of drywall screws, plenty of sandpaper, a couple of clamps (the one handed ones are invaluable), and a whole 41 ounces of PL. I extremely overused PL, but it's all about getting the warm fuzzy that you've done it right the first time anyway.

Gregory East
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Re: Dual Loaded Table Tuba by a Teenager

#260 Post by Gregory East »

Hope your Mum can't do internet !
BAT10, Bad Auto Tuba. Reverse folded TAT to fit JBL 1014D, 350W driver, voltage limit unknown.

Grant Bunter
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Re: Dual Loaded Table Tuba by a Teenager

#261 Post by Grant Bunter »

+1, on her iphone...
Your in a serious world of hurt if mum or dad can lol
Built:
DR 250: x 2 melded array, 2x CD horn, March 2012 plans.
T39's: 4 x 20" KL3010LF , 2 x 28" 3012LF.
WH8: x 6 with melded array wired series/parallel.
Bunter's Audio and Lighting "like"s would be most appreciated...

Gregory East
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Re: Dual Loaded Table Tuba by a Teenager

#262 Post by Gregory East »

Although 1/6th volume should keep the mice away and the plates safe on the kitchen counter.
BAT10, Bad Auto Tuba. Reverse folded TAT to fit JBL 1014D, 350W driver, voltage limit unknown.

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subharmonic
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Location: Mandan ND

Re: Dual Loaded Table Tuba by a Teenager

#263 Post by subharmonic »

BM I may give you a lot of crap but way to go on the build and I really like the 5 point write up. Seriously attaboy! Enjoy. :clap:
2x T39, 1x T60, 1x THTLP, 1x AT(not built by me) 6x DR250
I need more bass

But this gal's built like a burlap bag full of bobcats
CW Mcall

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Tom Smit
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Re: Dual Loaded Table Tuba by a Teenager

#264 Post by Tom Smit »

Way to go! Now, disconnect the TT from the amp and measured the voltage at the amp with the same material that you were playing.....and then report back. :cowboy:
BTW, you've come a long way. Congrats.
TomS

bassmonster
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Re: Dual Loaded Table Tuba by a Teenager

#265 Post by bassmonster »

Thanks for the responses and advice everyone. I think as soon as they left the house they expected me to flex its muscles a little bit though. It's natural. :mrgreen: I forgot to measure the voltage, but the next chance I get I'll measure it.

This build has been a huge learning curve for me, both in theory and in practice. This whole design just again proves that things are much better when you follow the laws of physics rather than try to fight them. :cowboy:

bassmonster
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Re: Dual Loaded Table Tuba by a Teenager

#266 Post by bassmonster »

Most of the prep work for Duratex and paint will happen tomorrow after school. I have a super small gig with it Sunday w/ less than 50 people- I'm playing bass for our church band. Anyone ever used a TT as a bottom for a small bass rig? It works fine so far, at least in my room. Rattles the light fixture to death on low A. :mrgreen:

BTW, filling the screw holes with PL is a pain to work with. It takes forever to sand, sometimes gets awkwardly pulled out all chippy with the putty knife, and in general is pretty messy. It will end up being fine, but FWIW Bondo would be way easier.

Here's the plan: Fill screw holes with some sort of filler, let dry/cure, sand, fill and sand some more if needed, check for blemishes, sand, round over the outside edges with a Dremel tool since I don't own a router :broke: (read: will take quite a long time). Cut mouth braces and sand to fit, carefully. I don't want to have to repeat this step. Then, paint inside of the horn mouth dark red, simultaneously paint the mouth braces black outside the cab. Wait to dry, then install mouth braces and clean up. Then, first coat Duratex. How long in between each coat of Duratex can anyone suggest? I will paint it inside because it's about 70-75 degrees F upstairs all the time.

BassMe
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Re: Dual Loaded Table Tuba by a Teenager

#267 Post by BassMe »

bassmonster wrote:
BTW, filling the screw holes with PL is a pain to work with. It takes forever to sand, sometimes gets awkwardly pulled out all chippy with the putty knife, and in general is pretty messy. It will end up being fine, but FWIW Bondo would be way easier.
This is what I used to do when i helped build stairs. The wood often had small holes and sometimes holes from small screws/brads we got a squeezy sauce bottle (like tomato or bbq sauce) filled with white wood glue. Put the tip against the hole and squirt, grab a pinch of sanding dust and rub it into the top. Let it sit for 5-10mins and then give them a light sand. All gone and it looks the same as the wood around it. Very very quick and easy. All kinda depends how big your screw heads are, but I'd give it a go.

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Tom Smit
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Re: Dual Loaded Table Tuba by a Teenager

#268 Post by Tom Smit »

bassmonster wrote: How long in between each coat of Duratex can anyone suggest? I will paint it inside because it's about 70-75 degrees F upstairs all the time.
About an hour. I coated some cabs under the radiant heater in the shop where I work (bosses permission), and waited half hour before recoat. During the coating, I turned off the heater; after coating the thermostat was cranked up again. Also, http://billfitzmaurice.info/forum/viewt ... 14&t=13551
TomS

2Channon
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Location: Columbia, Missouri

Re: Dual Loaded Table Tuba by a Teenager

#269 Post by 2Channon »

bassmonster wrote:I wired up the subs today, I wired them in parallel so once in the cab the total impedance will be around 3-4 ohms. This is how I wired them, did I do it correctly? Just double checking as I don't want fried amps or voice coils.

Image
Bassmonster, I've really enjoyed your build and evaluation of this beautiful monstrosity :mrgreen:
I have a question about how you figured your total impedance. When you parallel two 4ohm speakers that makes the load 2ohm, right? I take it that the cab adds some resistance but I can't find any figure in the plans about how much. So, how many ohms does the cab add, and would it be the same if I were to wire two single loaded cabs parallel?

bassmonster
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Re: Dual Loaded Table Tuba by a Teenager

#270 Post by bassmonster »

BassMe wrote: This is what I used to do when i helped build stairs. The wood often had small holes and sometimes holes from small screws/brads we got a squeezy sauce bottle (like tomato or bbq sauce) filled with white wood glue. Put the tip against the hole and squirt, grab a pinch of sanding dust and rub it into the top. Let it sit for 5-10mins and then give them a light sand. All gone and it looks the same as the wood around it. Very very quick and easy. All kinda depends how big your screw heads are, but I'd give it a go.
Thank you for the advice! They are standard drywall screws, the screw head diameter about 1/4".
Tom Smit wrote: Also, viewtopic.php?f=14&t=13551
Thank you for that link, that's good information there. An hour isn't long, that's better than I had hoped.
2Channon wrote:When you parallel two 4ohm speakers that makes the load 2ohm, right?
Yes.
2Channon wrote: I take it that the cab adds some resistance but I can't find any figure in the plans about how much.
2 ohms per driver. It's not in my plans, but a quick forum search solved it.
2Channon wrote:would it be the same if I were to wire two single loaded cabs parallel?
Sorry, I don't know, I bet someone else could answer this question though.

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