Carpet Over Dried PL Residue

[David Carter]

I'm pretty much finished gluing up my O10, and I'm noticing that on all the joints where I tried to wipe the PL while it was still wet to clean as I went, I am now left with a rough, bumpy hard coat of smeared PL residue. The bumps aren't big by any means. They're almost like little bubbles.

My question is, if I'm going to carpet the cab, I shouldn't have to worry about the surface being perfectly smooth, right? Am I OK as long as I don't have big beads in the joints? Or do I need to make sure everything is perfectly smooth? I would think that the carpet would mask the minimally bumpy surface, but I'd hate to find out otherwise after having carpeted the whole thing.

Thanks.

[Harley]

The bumps aren't big by any means. They're almost like little bubbles..

Well there's Good news ....and then....there's Bad news.

First of all the BAD NEWS!

If your bumps are over a micron high....you have to scrap your cab and start all over again!

Sorry

Now for the GOOD NEWS!

I was joking

Here's the Mo News!

So long as all the PL taken off with a scraper on your flat surfaces and exposed edges, and then sanded, you'll be fine.

I use a box cutter knife to cut out the real obnoxious blobs in the joints where the carpet is going - LIGHTLY cut with the blade laying against the surfaces INTO the joint and you're done.

If in doubt, stick two bits of wood together with glue and use a scrapo of carpet to trial glue on............

Piece of cake really

Harley

[David Carter]

First of all the BAD NEWS!

If your bumps are over a micron high....you have to scrap your cab and start all over again!

Sorry

Don't do that to me! I'm too young for a heart attack !

So long as all the PL taken off with a scraper on your flat surfaces and exposed edges, and then sanded, you'll be fine.

Man, I'd better get to work if I have to get all the PL of the flat surfaces! Should be to hard to sand it off of most surfaces (just time consuming), but it's all over the horn flanges, and I can't reach my sander all the back into the horn.

Well, better get started...

[Mark Coward]

As another poster recommended, get an old fashioned paint scraper - the type with the "hook" blade. Usually available in a couple of sizes, the smaller size is handy for getting into tight spots. I wouldn't worry about getting it super smooth for carpet, just use some coarse sandpaper.

[Tim A]

Utility knife (box cutter), scraper, wood chisel, anything of that ilk. A wood chisel takes it off the flat surfaces very easily.

[David Carter]

Utility knife (box cutter), scraper, wood chisel, anything of that ilk. A wood chisel takes it off the flat surfaces very easily.

I had tried using a chisel, but the results left a lot to be desired. This morning I took a file to the chisel and sharpened it up, and it's working quite weill now. I think I'll be in OK shape after all.

Thanks for the tips, everyone!

[Tim A]

I had tried using a chisel, but the results left a lot to be desired. This morning I took a file to the chisel and sharpened it up, and it's working quite weill now. I think I'll be in OK shape after all.

Thanks for the tips, everyone!

Yes, a dull wood chisel is worse than no wood chisel.