Newbie PL Question

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David Carter · #1 Post by **David Carter** » Sun Feb 25, 2007 10:03 pm

I've got most of the stuff for my O10 build, and I've been going over the plans trying to build the thing in my mind before I start cutting into my plywood.

I've never used PL before, so I have a question about how much to apply. For example, it looks like the first time I'll need to use it is to join one of the horn plates to the bottom plate. Do I lay it on pretty thick and then clean up what oozes out from the joint later on or do I put a smaller amount to try to fill the joint without having it all ooze out? The reason I wonder is because I've seen many reference in other threads to cleaning up PL that gets all over everything, but, on the other hand, there is no mention in the plans of putting wax paper between the guideboard and the plates that are being glued together. If I were to slop it on liberally, wouldn't the guideboard get glued to the other boards and become a permanent fixture, too?

Sorry for the dumb question. I just want to get it right the first time.

Thanks.

Tom O'Shea · #2 Post by **Tom O'Shea** » Sun Feb 25, 2007 10:51 pm

Waxed paper--yes!
PL amount: Being generous with PL and cleaning up as I go seems to work best for me, so far. You want enough for a continuous bead of squeeze out, guaranteeing a proper seal.

Tom O'Shea

chad · #3 Post by **chad** » Sun Feb 25, 2007 11:48 pm

Tom O'Shea wrote:Waxed paper--yes!

Tom O'Shea

+1

David Carter · #4 Post by **David Carter** » Mon Feb 26, 2007 3:10 am

Tom O'Shea wrote:Being generous with PL and cleaning up as I go seems to work best for me, so far.

So after you press the two boards together and some PL oozes out from the joint, is it easier to clean by wiping it up immediately or by waiting till it sets for a while and then peeling/scraping/chipping it away?

Sydney · #5 Post by **Sydney** » Mon Feb 26, 2007 7:42 am

It is easier to clean by wiping it up immediately w a rag moisten w acetone*,
But it will continue to expand a little more.
* Note my use of acetone is based upon my personal decision to use a simple, pure benign solvent w no established cancer links and minimal environmental impact vs Mineral Spirits is a solvent mix containing impurities w known cancer warnings and greater environmental impact.

Tim A · #6 Post by **Tim A** » Mon Feb 26, 2007 7:43 am

The label clearly says it cleans up with mineral spirits when wet. I can attest to that. Keep a can of it around. I put some on a rag for wiping down tools and such.

It will stain your hands. Get some disposable latex gloves.

You'll want a 16 penny nail or something of the same diameter to stick in the opening after you apply it. It will continue to come out of the tube.

Squeeze it out, hit the release on the caulking gun, stick the nail in. Cut the tip small enough so the nail creates a seal.

You have LOTS of time to work with this stuff. Waxpaper can be a pain in the butt, so if the guideboard is to come off right after gluing, just wipe it down with the mineral spirits. If it's to stay on while the glue sets, use waxpaper.

I like to see a small bead ooze out, then clean it up with a chisel or utility knife after it dries.

DaveK · #7 Post by **DaveK** » Mon Feb 26, 2007 7:22 pm

Tim Ard wrote:I like to see a small bead ooze out, then clean it up with a chisel or utility knife after it dries.

Ditto. I used to run a finger along the joint when wet to wipe away the excess and get a seal like you would with bathroom caulk. However, there is additional expansion as it cures and the bond with the finger smear makes it hard to get off later. Make the initial bead big enough (like 1/4 inch diameter) that all gaps are filled and then don't touch the squeeze-out. Once it dries it comes off much easier with a knife and chisel.

DJ Big Ronn · #8 Post by **DJ Big Ronn** » Mon Feb 26, 2007 9:47 pm

Tim Ard wrote:The label clearly says it cleans up with mineral spirits when wet. I can attest to that. Keep a can of it around. I put some on a rag for wiping down tools and such.

It will stain your hands. Get some disposable latex gloves.

You'll want a 16 penny nail or something of the same diameter to stick in the opening after you apply it. It will continue to come out of the tube.

Squeeze it out, hit the release on the caulking gun, stick the nail in. Cut the tip small enough so the nail creates a seal.

You have LOTS of time to work with this stuff. Waxpaper can be a pain in the butt, so if the guideboard is to come off right after gluing, just wipe it down with the mineral spirits. If it's to stay on while the glue sets, use waxpaper.

I like to see a small bead ooze out, then clean it up with a chisel or utility knife after it dries.

Plastic shopping bags also work really well. Tons of them in the kitchen cabinet.

chad · #9 Post by **chad** » Tue Feb 27, 2007 1:42 am

I used mineral spirits when it was wet and my friggin hands still were sticky

Latex gloves are a good idea. Wiping the ooze off helps too because you will end up wiping all of the glue off only to find the next day that it expanded and oozed out of the joint anyway.

David Carter · #10 Post by **David Carter** » Tue Mar 06, 2007 5:28 am

Thanks for all the tips, guys! After a slow start with my circular saw, I borrowed a friend's table saw yesterday, and now I'm making some real progress. I've got the the two horn plates for my O10 glued-n-screwed to the bottom. I'll be gluing on the top later today.

Thanks to all the tips in this thread I've been able to glue both joints with no mess whatsoever. I'm well armed with a nail to plug the PL tube, latex gloves, mineral spirits and rag, and waxpaper. So far, so good (knocks on the nearest piece of baltic birch

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