NeilD321 wrote:Has anybody else noticed how easy it is to accidentally build wind (twist) into the cab using Bill's method? I.e. Attach the bottom, attach the top THEN attach the sides.
I'm a fairly experienced hobbist cab builder but as it's my first BFM build I followed the instructions to the letter (I think) and one of my cabs has about 2mm of wind in it. Nobody but me will notice, but it's not square
Wondering if anybody has a good tip for attaching the top square to the bottom before adding the sides?
In hindsight I think I'd attach the bottom then, once the glue is dry, temporarily attach the top. Trim the mouth plates then attach the top and sides at the same time and square the whole thing up before the glue sets.
I'd be surprised if mine only had that much twist. I don't have much woodworking experience, maybe the instructions were for folks like me who wouldn't even know where to begin trying to slap a bunch of pieces together at once and trying (hoping) to square.
I was shooting for 'square enough' . I understand if you are aiming for a higher standard, though.
I'm going to put these handles into the Jack12's. They will take up a small amount of internal volume. I believe this will make a difference to the sound so I was hoping someone could explain what will change (if anything). I'm a newbie remember, with a vast amount of learning to do.
Attachments
Stupidity should be painful
2 * SLA, 2 * Curved SLA, 2 * Tuba 18, 1 * XF212, 4 * Jack12, 2 * SLA Mini
Oh, while I was waiting for the glue to dry on the Jacks, I knocked together an XF12 cab. It is WAY lighter than the Hughes and Kettner cab I'm pulling the drivers out of. Cant wait to try it out.
Attachments
Stupidity should be painful
2 * SLA, 2 * Curved SLA, 2 * Tuba 18, 1 * XF212, 4 * Jack12, 2 * SLA Mini
The box of bits I ordered turned up. Yay! Here I am cutting up the piezo's for the melded array. Man, those little pieces of plastic sting. Never needed to wear a glove while using the cross cut sled before!
Attachments
Stupidity should be painful
2 * SLA, 2 * Curved SLA, 2 * Tuba 18, 1 * XF212, 4 * Jack12, 2 * SLA Mini
NeilD321 wrote:The box of bits I ordered turned up. Yay! Here I am cutting up the piezo's for the melded array. Man, those little pieces of plastic sting. Never needed to wear a glove while using the cross cut sled before!
I'd advise to add some device to your jig that keeps the piezo's in place instead of using your hand. Your hand is too close to the blade. I think Leland or Harley have posted pics of how they equiped their jigs. Take good care of your fingers, they are your most valuable tool. My 2c.
Thanks for the advice. The blade was only 5mm high while doing this as I am using the alternating method of assembly. I used a hold down block when cutting the 45 degree cut.
Stupidity should be painful
2 * SLA, 2 * Curved SLA, 2 * Tuba 18, 1 * XF212, 4 * Jack12, 2 * SLA Mini
Be very careful wiring the tweeters, with the alternating lug direction. Even one tweeter wired with reverse polarity will foul up the works, let alone more than one.
and while I'm at it Bill. Thank you so much for the effort you have cearly put into all your designs and the input you constantly add to the forum. Very much appreciated at this end.
Stupidity should be painful
2 * SLA, 2 * Curved SLA, 2 * Tuba 18, 1 * XF212, 4 * Jack12, 2 * SLA Mini
You are welcome, glad to be of help. Those tweeters come with the red dots, and they are on the positive indeed.
I haven't covered the back. On the one cab that I have with exposed array I have made the supports just deep enough to hardly show the back of the arrays. Not guaranteed to keep prying fingers out, but it helps if there is not much to see.
I'd be surprised if mine only had that much twist. I don't have much woodworking experience, maybe the instructions were for folks like me who wouldn't even know where to begin trying to slap a bunch of pieces together at once and trying (hoping) to square.
. I understand if you are aiming for a higher standard, though.
