Car audio setup

[osse]

Hello, I'm soon about to buy a car and wish to install a really nice sound setup.

Anyone around here who's got good experience in what to use?

My criteria is for it to be LIGHT DRIVEN! I don't want to have to change batterys, generators or such but be able to get a good quality loud sound from a simple and low-power setup.

I'm thinking of building TableTuba, and complement with other speakers around/in front.

The question is, are there any high sensitivity speakers out there that can be driven with the internal power amplifier in for example this unit http://www.alpine-usa.com/product/view/cda-117/?

The specs say:
50 watt max
4v/10kohm

If I cut at say 100 hz, is this enought power for front systems or will I need external power amp for them?

Also, how important are cables in the car, it would be nice to not have to draw new cables everywhere but use the (often) existing ones for the front speakers, anyone with experience on this?

Anyone got any recommendations regarding front system drivers(I know it depends of the size but are there any favourable series or brands of speakers regardless which size) for this application?

Thanks!

[jcmbowman]

Let me see if I've got this figured out:

1) you want a good stereo setup for your new car

2) This will be an installed setup in the car

3) you want to avoid pulling cables wherever possible.

4) You somehow want this stereo to be light-powered?? As in Solar?? Or just light-duty - not destroying batteries, etc...




Regardless, my advice for first-time out car audio buffs who are after good audio quality at decent levels (not the ZOMG MAKE IT LOUD!!! people):

The single-most effective thing you can do is make sure your car is properly damped. It's a lot easier to get good, loud sound when you're not competing with the sound of the road. There are companies that do under-body damping (and rustproofing!) sprays, and there is material you can put in the body panels/door panels that will reduce the outside noise by at least 10dB. That's the difference between 50 watts per speaker and 500 watts per speaker. Also - once you get a subwoofer, take the time to find a field or parking lot where you can crank it and get a good sweep tone going and then scour the car for rattles. Rattles are the sort of thing you won't notice until your at war volume cruising down the freeway, and there's no easy way to fix a rattle in the back seat at 70mph.

Next, buy a good head unit. No, really, don't scrimp, buy a good head unit. In my wife's car we're still using the stock speakers (plus an autotuba) with a top-of-the-line blaupunkt head unit. Because the head unit allows for 31 bands of eq for each of the 4 channels, people with $5,000+ car stereo systems have insisted that I open the trunk to show them the standard Honda factory speakers.

So, in a nutshell - focus on the foundation first. If you've got a noisy car, and a mediocre head unit, you could have a full studio reference system in the back seat, and it would still sound like crap.

[bassmonster]

The question is, are there any high sensitivity speakers out there that can be driven with the internal power amplifier in for example this unit http://www.alpine-usa.com/product/view/cda-117/?

The specs say:
50 watt max
4v/10kohm

If I cut at say 100 hz, is this enought power for front systems or will I need external power amp for them?

Max power is irrelevant. At 18w RMS (from their website), no it's not adequate for the volume you want.
If you want loud, these are nice speakers- (http://www.crutchfield.com/p_107DB6501/ ... tml?tp=106). However you need external amp to power them. This amp puts out 100w RMS. (http://www.crutchfield.com/s_113X600F/K ... l?tp=35782)

Also, how important are cables in the car, it would be nice to not have to draw new cables everywhere but use the (often) existing ones for the front speakers, anyone with experience on this?

The speaker wire you use will greatly impact your sound, so buy high-quality cable. Almost anything is better than stock. If you decide to skimp on the cable front, your choice, but even the best stereo equipment will sound bad with a less than sufficient cable.

Anyone got any recommendations regarding front system drivers(I know it depends of the size but are there any favourable series or brands of speakers regardless which size) for this application?

Personally I like the Polk Audio dB series. They have a crisp, clean sound and put out quite a bit of bass. Of course you will be building a TT right?

Also, regarding what previous posts have said, DO NOT skimp on the head unit. Buy a nice unit and you will get good sound. The Alpine looks fine.

EDIT: Forgot to talk about this- Dynamat (or a similar damping material) will make a big impact on your sound. It will block out a lot of road and tire noise so you can hear more detail in your music and won't have to crank it as loud, it will also help with some rattling.

[Bill Fitzmaurice]

The speaker wire you use will greatly impact your sound, so buy high-quality cable.

Next to printer ink and extended warranties the highest profit item sold is cable, and no, it does not impact sound. It only impacts your wallet.

If you want loud, these are nice speakers- (http://www.crutchfield.com/p_107DB6501/ ... tml?tp=106).

Absurdly priced. Never buy drivers that look that pretty, they're marketed at teenagers who know nothing whatsoever about how speakers work but like how pretty they are, and don't know enough not to pay three times what they're worth.
Standard car speakers work just fine, as do the standard head units. All you need to add is tweeters, as close to ear level as possible, along with a good sub and an amp to drive the sub with.

[bassmonster]

The speaker wire you use will greatly impact your sound, so buy high-quality cable.

Next to printer ink and extended warranties the highest profit item sold is cable, and no, it does not impact sound. It only impacts your wallet.

If you want loud, these are nice speakers- (http://www.crutchfield.com/p_107DB6501/ ... tml?tp=106).

Absurdly priced. Never buy drivers that look that pretty, they're marketed at teenagers who know nothing whatsoever about how speakers work but like how pretty they are, and don't know enough not to pay three times what they're worth.
Standard car speakers work just fine, as do the standard head units. All you need to add is tweeters, as close to ear level as possible, along with a good sub and an amp to drive the sub with.

Well ever since I switched to Monster cable I've noticed more crisp sound, but maybe my ears are messed up.

Ouch. Point taken. I still have a lot to learn. What kind of car will OP get? The price of these must drive you up a wall... http://www.crutchfield.com/s_136ZR650CS ... tml?tp=106
However my friend has some JL Audio in his car and it sounds great.

[Bill Fitzmaurice]

Well ever since I switched to Monster cable I've noticed more crisp sound, but maybe my ears are messed up.

What you've 'noticed' is what you expected to hear for the price paid. The technical term for it is 'placebo effect'. Not only does Monster not live up to its hype, it's not particularly good cable. Required reading:
http://www.bcae1.com/images/swfs/speake ... istant.swf
http://www.skeptic.com/eskeptic/10-01-06#feature
http://consumerist.com/362926/do-coat-h ... ter-cables
http://www.roger-russell.com/wire/wire.htm

[bassmonster]

http://consumerist.com/362926/do-coat-h ... ter-cables

Wow, that genuinely surprises me. It was quite amusing and humbling at the same time. But the Monster cable has a lifetime warranty, if the coat hanger breaks you'll have to buy a new one

[Doug Hart]

A computer tech at HP once told my wife that her computer wasn't
working right because she must have switched the monitor power cable
and the CPU power cable (both standard IEC cables).

I can't count how many times I've explained the fact that
sound does not care how much you paid for your cables.

[UROK]

http://www.bcae1.com/images/swfs/speake ... istant.swf
http://www.skeptic.com/eskeptic/10-01-06#feature
http://consumerist.com/362926/do-coat-h ... ter-cables
http://www.roger-russell.com/wire/wire.htm

WHAT???

Now you tell me!

I just ordered six pairs of these for my 7.1 system!

http://www.russandrews.com/product.asp? ... HPHVKCNMSW

[Dan30]

http://www.bcae1.com/images/swfs/speake ... istant.swf
http://www.skeptic.com/eskeptic/10-01-06#feature
http://consumerist.com/362926/do-coat-h ... ter-cables
http://www.roger-russell.com/wire/wire.htm

WHAT???

Now you tell me!

I just ordered six pairs of these for my 7.1 system!

http://www.russandrews.com/product.asp? ... HPHVKCNMSW

LOL $6,300 for a banana cable! I can't believe there's a market for this crap.

[UROK]

LOL $6,300 for a banana cable! I can't believe there's a market for this crap.

Why not???

"Listening confirms that they are significantly better, with a lower noise floor and even better detail retrieval and transparency."

[Bill Fitzmaurice]

LOL $6,300 for a banana cable! I can't believe there's a market for this crap.

'More money than brains' didn't make its way into our lexicon for the lack of working examples of it.

[bassmonster]

Oh well, I'm happy with my monster cables, the connection on them lasts longer than cheap cables. Ignorance is bliss I guess.

[Bruce Weldy]

Oh well, I'm happy with my monster cables, the connection on them lasts longer than cheap cables. Ignorance is bliss I guess.

Build 'em yourself with Switchcraft or Neutrik connectors and you'll get the best of both worlds.....quality and economy.

[jcmbowman]

Every pair of Monster Cable RCA to RCA wires I've had (purchased, left by a DJ at a gig, etc..) has lasted less than a year with regular use. I suppose if you just plug them in once and never move them, they'd be fine. But for me, they always come apart or short out at one of the ends. They always put on this crazy thick insulation, but still use 20-24ga wire inside the cable, and the strain relief is pretty much non-existent. So of course the wire breaks at the solder point.

If you don't want to make your own, go to radio shack, or order online from somewhere like PartsExpress or MCM. there will be no audible difference.