Partial Speaker Gasket Replacement

[Flashjet]

I have the Classic Tempest 15" DVC Subwoofer Driver from Adire Audio. I have been using it in a 10 cubic foot ported enclosure surface mounted NOT using the gasket that is on the speaker. I now am building a Tuba HT and it calls for surface mounting with the gasket. The problem I have is a section of the gasket has come off and has been lost. I know Parts Express sells gasket material in 50 foot rolls, but it is much softer and would not support the driver as well as the rest of the gasket material still on the speaker.

How do I best replace the missing gasket section on the driver for the best mounting possible for the Tuba HT?

My first thought was to remove all the gasket material and just use the gasket material from PE. But the gasket is thick and provides for the throw of the cone. Without the gasket to support it as high as it is, the cone would hit the baffle, which is already glued in place.

Any ideas on how to solve this issue would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks in advance,
Flashjet

[Gregory East]

Many of Bill's other designs include a spacer ring for that function, I would have thought THT was one of that did.

[LelandCrooks]

Many of the eminence drivers use cardboard with thin compressible gasket on top. You could glue up the appropriate thickness of thin cardstock, cut out the shape and stick the gasket tape on top of that.

I sell it by the foot. Best bet though is go to the hardware store and get a small roll from them, unless you need other stuff.

[jcmbowman]

I think for the best seal, you might be better off stripping off all the existing gasket material and then applying your own, that way you've got a uniform seal all the way around.

[Flashjet]

Thanks for the inputs. I have stripped off all the gasket material that was still on the speaker frame and plan to cut a spacer out of 1/2" plywood. I will put gasket tape, 1/8" thick, on the speaker frame first and then the plywood spacer and then another layer of the gasket tape on top. This will give me the needed clearance for the cone travel and provide a good seal for the speaker in the Tuba HT.

Thanks again for all the input.

Flashjet

[subharmonic]

Get some duct seal on hand too. That was a life saver on this last build. I had a leak by one screw and one on the chamber cover. Little duct seal and no worries

[Tom Smit]

A 22hz wavelength is 51 feet long, which means that a 4 x 4 foot panel will be a small obstacle to it. You would need at least 25.5 feet to be effective.

[Flashjet]

A 22hz wavelength is 51 feet long, which means that a 4 x 4 foot panel will be a small obstacle to it. You would need at least 25.5 feet to be effective.

TomS, I don't understand how your comment relates to speaker gaskets. The idea is to get a good airtight seal from the gasket on the speaker driver. From there on it is still required to have an airtight pathway from all the panels in the THT.

I cut a spacer out of 1/2 " plywood and painted the inside ring to seal it. I put gasket material on both top and bottom and then placed it on the speaker. When bolted to the baffle, there was plenty of room for cone travel before it would hit anything. The speaker proved airtight on the baffle. (Success!)

Thanks to All,
Flashjet

[Bill Fitzmaurice]

A 22hz wavelength is 51 feet long, which means that a 4 x 4 foot panel will be a small obstacle to it. You would need at least 25.5 feet to be effective.

Non sequitur.

I cut a spacer out of 1/2 " plywood and painted the inside ring to seal it. I put gasket material on both top and bottom and then placed it on the speaker. When bolted to the baffle, there was plenty of room for cone travel before it would hit anything. The speaker provide airtight on the baffle. (Success!)

[Tom Smit]

So sorry! That post was supposed to go somewhere else.

[subharmonic]

TS