myn's Tuba HT Build Thread

[Flashjet]

First off, I have to thank Myn for his excellent build documentation and pictures. Even with all this great documentation and pictures, plus the detailed plans, I messed up and wanted to know if I am required to rip out my baffle because I glued it in turned around 180 degrees. The driver, per plans, should be closer to panel #5. I glued my in so it is closer to the front of the enclosure front. I wondered if this would have much of an impact on the finial result of the THT sound output.

I started looking for other posts of some one doing the same mess up and I have two pictures of different builds that have done this same mess up but didn't mention it. This one and another.

Your picture shows that your driver is closer to the front of the enclosure than to panel #5. But your glowing review of the finial results of the sound output tell me that it is a mess up that I can live with. I hope this reply post keeps others from doing the same thing.

Thanks again,

Flashjet

[JohnnyTightlips]

How did you wire the sub woofer since it is DVC "DVC385-88". I am about to finish my build with the same sub and was wondering how I am supposed to wire it. Also should I use that same wiring when I am breaking it in? Awesome build it really helped me with mine. I am about to put on the final side and am trying to take my time so I can make sure it is aligned and air tight. Thanks

[Jake Smith]

I can't wait to build a couple of these. I'll probably go with the 24.5" width as well since it is efficient material use and can get through practically all doorways. Since I want to build two at once, I'll just double up all my lumber and cut at the same time.

I actually wanted to build a 36" wide version for my friend who has French doors that lead into his home theater, but it would suck if he moved and couldn't bring it into his new home. My brother's idea was to cut it all and put it together inside of the room you want it in, but once again, you'd have to leave without it. I wonder if the output of the full 36" wide boy would be worth the effort, expense, and loss?

[DJPhatman]

I wonder if the output of the full 36" wide boy would be worth the effort, expense, and loss?

Not when you get the same output from 2 18" wide, with the added bonus of being able to split the subs for more even coverage and reduce room nodes.

[brewerbry]

I don't see that this build used the driver spacer discussed in the plans - anyone else skipping the spacer? Is it needed for a DVC driver?

[dcg58]

I can't wait to build a couple of these. I'll probably go with the 24.5" width as well since it is efficient material use and can get through practically all doorways. Since I want to build two at once, I'll just double up all my lumber and cut at the same time.

I actually wanted to build a 36" wide version for my friend who has French doors that lead into his home theater, but it would suck if he moved and couldn't bring it into his new home. My brother's idea was to cut it all and put it together inside of the room you want it in, but once again, you'd have to leave without it. I wonder if the output of the full 36" wide boy would be worth the effort, expense, and loss?

I have a 30" door into my theatre and i got it in no problem (36" model). I just turned it on its end and went through with the narrow part towards the sides of the doorway. Easy peasy...

[dcg58]

I don't see that this build used the driver spacer discussed in the plans - anyone else skipping the spacer? Is it needed for a DVC driver?

I used the spacer on my build because it had it in the plans. It will stiffen up that section in any event even if it isn't needed for the clearance aspect. It is pretty quick to build and there is enough wood if you use 4x8 sheets or have some scrap piece from another project lying around.

[myn]

Yeah I am not sure if the plans have changed since I finished this build? What spacer are you referring to? Only thing I am aware that I purposely left out was the horizontal braces at the mouth opening.

[Ryan A]

Hey myn. Nice to see you back, thought you were long gone. Just want to say I enjoyed reading through your entire build thread

[myn]

Thanks.

Been doing some spring cleaning in my media room. The 18" LLT that was never reconnected after hearing the THT was just collecting dust so I decided to gut the subwoofer driver from it and get rid of the enclosure. My THT is still holding out strong, sounding better then ever.

[milehighassassin]

Good thread, I actually read it page by page. I am getting ready to finally build my THT. I have access to a pretty complete shop so I'm not too worried about the build but I have a few questions:

1. I have the Bash 300S amp
http://www.parts-express.com/bash-300s- ... s--300-750

It says in the instructions:

Use 14 or 16 gauge speaker wire, nothing exotic or expensive. You may mount a plate style subwoofer amp on an access cover, but that can lead to ground loop problems. I prefer to keep all the electronics in one place, same outlet, and run a long speaker cable to the sub.

I had planned to mount the amp on the Access Cover. Is this a bad idea? What sort of ground loop problems? I guess I don't understand the repercussions. Am I ahead to just build a separate enclosure for the amp? I'd rather not do that and have it all self contained in THT.

I plan on building 24.5" wide with Baltic Birch. I think everything else seems cut and dry.


Thoughts on touching up the woofer gasket ahead of time with hot melt glue or some sort of silicone to prevent the gasket from leaking?


TIA

[milehighassassin]

Actually I have two other questions:

The Bash 300. Looks like everything on the outside is "inputs". I assume the two wires coming off the inside of the circuit board are what feed the woofer in the sub, correct?


When you break in the woofer, you hook a multimeter to the wires to determine the voltage. All the pics I saw I see the wires hooked to a multi meter but not the speaker. Do you hook them to the speaker and multimeter at the same time or just the multi meter until you determine the correct voltage and then once that is complete you hook to the speaker to complete the break in.

TIA

[Yarz]

I assume the two wires coming off the inside of the circuit board are what feed the woofer in the sub, correct?

That is correct


Do you hook them to the speaker and multimeter at the same time or just the multi meter until you determine the correct voltage and then once that is complete you hook to the speaker to complete the break in.

I suppose you could do them separately, but I hooked them to the speaker and meter together, and turned the amp up from as low as it goes, until you reach the desired voltage.

[milehighassassin]

Thanks! Any thoughts on mounting the Amp to the cutout?

[Yarz]

I can't help you there.. I read the same thing you did, and went ahead and made a separate enclosure. The plans say you can mount it to the access cover, and I'm sure some here have. You'll have to wait for them to chime in, though.