Gut check - wiring LEDs @ 4.5v from 12v battery
Gut check - wiring LEDs @ 4.5v from 12v battery
I got some rope lights that run off 3 AA batteries (4.5V). To step down from the 12V battery, I just wire up a 360ohm resistor on the positive wire, right? What wattage would it need to be?
Bobby Shively
Purveyor of fine aged hip hop
Traktor S4 - Vestax VCI-100 - TTX - MOTU Ultralite - Yamaha 01V
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Purveyor of fine aged hip hop
Traktor S4 - Vestax VCI-100 - TTX - MOTU Ultralite - Yamaha 01V
Built:
T39 13" BP102, 24" 3012LF - AT - OT12 2512 - SLA Pro - T24 - Jack 10
Powered by XTi 1000 & 2000
- Bill Fitzmaurice
- Site Admin
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Re: Gut check - wiring LEDs @ 4.5v from 12v battery
I don't know, what's the resistance of the rope lights?bzb wrote:I got some rope lights that run off 3 AA batteries (4.5V). To step down from the 12V battery, I just wire up a 360ohm resistor on the positive wire, right?
- RubiconProSound
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- Location: Pollock Pines CA. (between Lake Tahoe and Sacramento...)
Re: Gut check - wiring LEDs @ 4.5v from 12v battery
You could always just use a simple 3 pin "LM series" voltage regulator... no matter what voltage you put into it you'll always get the desired output voltage (within reason of course) and they are super easy to use.

I use them all the time for stepping voltage down on 12 volt car projects. There are fixed voltage varieties like the example above or you could always go with the adjustable version...
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index ... =107596962
I've soldered the wires directly to the legs and used heat shrink, no PC board required. If you're not handy with a soldering iron you could always buy the ready made version that plugs into a cigarette lighter outlet.
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index ... PerPage=60

I use them all the time for stepping voltage down on 12 volt car projects. There are fixed voltage varieties like the example above or you could always go with the adjustable version...
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index ... =107596962
I've soldered the wires directly to the legs and used heat shrink, no PC board required. If you're not handy with a soldering iron you could always buy the ready made version that plugs into a cigarette lighter outlet.
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index ... PerPage=60
Built so far:
AutoTuba. TAT, T18, T30, T39, SLA, SLA Pro, DR200, Omni 12TB, Omni 12 Sub, Omni 10.5,
AutoTuba. TAT, T18, T30, T39, SLA, SLA Pro, DR200, Omni 12TB, Omni 12 Sub, Omni 10.5,
Re: Gut check - wiring LEDs @ 4.5v from 12v battery
Bill - no idea on that one. Can I get a "close enough" reading from a multimeter?
Rubicon - looks like that may be the thing I need! Thanks!
Rubicon - looks like that may be the thing I need! Thanks!
Bobby Shively
Purveyor of fine aged hip hop
Traktor S4 - Vestax VCI-100 - TTX - MOTU Ultralite - Yamaha 01V
Built:
T39 13" BP102, 24" 3012LF - AT - OT12 2512 - SLA Pro - T24 - Jack 10
Powered by XTi 1000 & 2000
Purveyor of fine aged hip hop
Traktor S4 - Vestax VCI-100 - TTX - MOTU Ultralite - Yamaha 01V
Built:
T39 13" BP102, 24" 3012LF - AT - OT12 2512 - SLA Pro - T24 - Jack 10
Powered by XTi 1000 & 2000
- Rune Bivrin
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Re: Gut check - wiring LEDs @ 4.5v from 12v battery
Just as long as you remember that the 7805 will need some kind of cooling if the current is large enough. If you're going from 15V to 5V that's a 10V voltage drop. At 100mA of current you're looking at 1W of dissipated power. While that's not terribly much, it will still heat the regulator too much unless you affix it to some kind of heat sink. A 2" square piece of aluminium will probably suffice.
You should start by measuring how much current the light rope uses at 4.5V.
You should start by measuring how much current the light rope uses at 4.5V.
In build order:
O12 with no tweeter.
3 x WedgeHorns.
2 x Jack 10 without tweeters.
2 x DR250.
2 x 16" T39
1 x Tuba 24
2 x SLA Pro (sort of...)
O12 with no tweeter.
3 x WedgeHorns.
2 x Jack 10 without tweeters.
2 x DR250.
2 x 16" T39
1 x Tuba 24
2 x SLA Pro (sort of...)
- cheapbasslovin
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- Joined: Sat Apr 16, 2011 5:30 am
- Location: Portland OR
Re: Gut check - wiring LEDs @ 4.5v from 12v battery
Couldn't you just run a voltage dividing circuit across the battery? 800ohms in series with 400 ohms across the battery (or values similar to that), but then run the LED's across the 400 ohm resistor? If I'm as smart as I think that should put 4 volts on the rope (unless the rope itself has a very low resistance).
Mrrmensneturguneffferremantun
- RubiconProSound
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- Location: Pollock Pines CA. (between Lake Tahoe and Sacramento...)
Re: Gut check - wiring LEDs @ 4.5v from 12v battery
He mentioned they were LED lights so I figured the current draw would be low...Rune Bivrin wrote:Just as long as you remember that the 7805 will need some kind of cooling if the current is large enough. If you're going from 15V to 5V that's a 10V voltage drop. At 100mA of current you're looking at 1W of dissipated power. While that's not terribly much, it will still heat the regulator too much unless you affix it to some kind of heat sink. A 2" square piece of aluminium will probably suffice.
You should start by measuring how much current the light rope uses at 4.5V.
But yes,
Rune is right, and Radio Shack even has the small heat sink if the current draw heats the regulator too much.
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index ... Id=2102856
Built so far:
AutoTuba. TAT, T18, T30, T39, SLA, SLA Pro, DR200, Omni 12TB, Omni 12 Sub, Omni 10.5,
AutoTuba. TAT, T18, T30, T39, SLA, SLA Pro, DR200, Omni 12TB, Omni 12 Sub, Omni 10.5,