For these cuts only one side has a bevel so I cut the bevel first by eye and then set stops to cut the strips to width. Once you make the first cut or even a dry pass you can use the kerfs in the scrap ply to align the cut. For a bevel on both sides (when making several identical parts) I would make the first cut by eye with the kerf as a guide and then set 2 stops so that the second bevel could be made to finished width. For a single part I would just use the kerf as a guide.jswingchun wrote:I guess I was wondering more how you were aligning the cut line to the blade on the bevel cuts. Are you just eyeballing it?
I do have a table saw also but have not had to fire it up for this project. It is true that some parts of this process might be a little faster on the tablesaw but there are other parts that would be much slower or even dangerous so in the end there is really no advantage to the tablesaw but there is a big difference in safety. I have used tablesaws all of my life both professionally and as a hobby without any incident whatsoever, not even a single kickback. As I get older I at least hope that I get smarter and I realize that one day my luck will run out on the tablesaw. I now choose to work safer and the tracksaws (any brand) are a better way to work but it takes time to learn to work and think differently.
The build process does go a little slow since I am doing 8 simultaneous DR's!