Tip for applying carpet to your cab

Helpful hints on how to build 'em, and where to get the stuff you need.
Message
Author
User avatar
Tim A
Posts: 3663
Joined: Sat Jan 13, 2007 5:23 pm
Location: SE Michigan, Licensed BF Builder

Tip for applying carpet to your cab

#1 Post by Tim A »

I picked this tip up from a guy a long time ago when I was learning to apply tolex and carpet. It works so well, I still do it. It takes 30 seconds and a little cure time.

Try and get an idea of how the carpet will lay out on the cabinet. Once you do, use flat spray paint the same color (or close) as the covering material and spray where you think the seams will fall. That way if you get a less than perfect seam, you won't see the white wood through the gap. Here's a wedghorn build with the planned seams painted as an example:

Image

Let the paint dry overnight and the adhesive will stick to it as well as the wood.

User avatar
Harley
Posts: 5758
Joined: Mon May 08, 2006 2:45 pm
Location: Christchurch, New Zealand - Authorised BFM Cab Builder

#2 Post by Harley »

Wow - that's exactly what I do....but I was not going to admit it!. :lol:

Better than trying to patch it later.

Harley
ImageSemi-retired: Former Australia and New Zealand Authorised BFM cab builder.

mcrracer
Posts: 79
Joined: Sun Jun 18, 2006 10:50 pm
Location: Chicago IL

#3 Post by mcrracer »

I measure and cut my carpet so all of the seams fall on an edge. I then cover all the edges with plastic moulding and plastic corners. Looks professional! Works for me.

User avatar
vexorgtr
Posts: 179
Joined: Mon May 15, 2006 11:23 am
Contact:

#4 Post by vexorgtr »

I spray my edges too....... the other thing I learned is of you brush the carpet around the seams you can reduce the visibility.
Psychic Hamster Audio Works, Pro-Ject:Radiation, and Premium Computer Systems
http://www.premiumcomputer.cc

User avatar
LelandCrooks
Posts: 7242
Joined: Thu May 04, 2006 9:36 am
Location: Midwest/Kansas/Speaker Nirvana
Contact:

#5 Post by LelandCrooks »

DURATEX rules. I'll never carpet again. I sprayed 4 cabs last nite in 3 hours. I'd have barely finished carpet on one in that time.
If it's too loud, you're even older than me! Like me.
http://www.speakerhardware.com

User avatar
Tim A
Posts: 3663
Joined: Sat Jan 13, 2007 5:23 pm
Location: SE Michigan, Licensed BF Builder

#6 Post by Tim A »

LelandCrooks wrote:DURATEX rules. I'll never carpet again. I sprayed 4 cabs last nite in 3 hours. I'd have barely finished carpet on one in that time.
It just takes getting used to. I'll cover that wedgehorn in about an hour tonight. But I do intend to try the Duratax once the weather warms and I can spray in the garage.

I don't care for the plastic molding strips. I've never seen a manufactured cab yet that has them. To me, it looks exactly like what it is: plastic molding covering up seams.

Yes, brush it at the seams. Also, wipe the seams with a rag made damp by mineral spirits. It'll pull off any adhesive that may have got on the carpet and make the seam all but invisible.

If you do it correctly, you should have to search for the seams.

User avatar
David Carter
Posts: 1824
Joined: Mon Jan 01, 2007 7:20 am
Location: (East) Tennessee, USA

#7 Post by David Carter »

vexorgtr wrote:I spray my edges too....... the other thing I learned is of you brush the carpet around the seams you can reduce the visibility.
What do you mean by "brushing" the carpet? And how does that help cover up the seams?
Dave

Built:
- Omni 10 (S2010 + piezo array)
- 2 x DR250 (DL II 2510 + melded array)
- 2 x Titan 39 (BP102 - 14"W)
- 2 x Titan 39 (3012LF - 20"W)
- 4 x DR200 (Delta Pro 8B + melded array)

User avatar
Tim A
Posts: 3663
Joined: Sat Jan 13, 2007 5:23 pm
Location: SE Michigan, Licensed BF Builder

#8 Post by Tim A »

David Carter wrote:
vexorgtr wrote:I spray my edges too....... the other thing I learned is of you brush the carpet around the seams you can reduce the visibility.
What do you mean by "brushing" the carpet? And how does that help cover up the seams?
Just brush over it with a rag. It kind of 'fluffs' the fibers in the immediate vicinity of the seam. If it's really visible you can try a soft bristle brush, but be careful or it'll look like your cab is having a bad hair day....

sddj
Posts: 109
Joined: Mon Jun 19, 2006 10:10 am
Location: Green Bay, WI

#9 Post by sddj »

Yep... do the same stuff here... vote of confidence...

1) Use the mineral spirits thing (w/ a black rag - - important!) to rub over the seams of the carpeting. Gets the overspray off and makes the seam harder to see.

2) Instead of using black spray under the carpeting, I actually put a rolled on coat of Duratex first. I know it takes longer, but the reason I do it is if a beer or something is spilled on the carpeted speaker, it won't get into the wood plys and cause damage. So, if I had to replace the carpeting, difficult, but it could be done... whereas, if I had to replace a cab top or side, damn near impossible after PL is used!!

User avatar
Harley
Posts: 5758
Joined: Mon May 08, 2006 2:45 pm
Location: Christchurch, New Zealand - Authorised BFM Cab Builder

#10 Post by Harley »

LelandCrooks wrote:DURATEX rules. I'll never carpet again. I sprayed 4 cabs last nite in 3 hours. I'd have barely finished carpet on one in that time.
Alright for those of you lucky bassturds who can actually GET Duratex.

The rest of us have to put up with bows and arrows........carpet and glue :cry:

Harley
ImageSemi-retired: Former Australia and New Zealand Authorised BFM cab builder.

User avatar
LelandCrooks
Posts: 7242
Joined: Thu May 04, 2006 9:36 am
Location: Midwest/Kansas/Speaker Nirvana
Contact:

#11 Post by LelandCrooks »

5 gallon bucket baby. Why buy small. :twisted:
If it's too loud, you're even older than me! Like me.
http://www.speakerhardware.com

User avatar
Harley
Posts: 5758
Joined: Mon May 08, 2006 2:45 pm
Location: Christchurch, New Zealand - Authorised BFM Cab Builder

#12 Post by Harley »

LelandCrooks wrote:5 gallon bucket baby. Why buy small. :twisted:
Because it's paint and therefore classed here as inflammable goods, the cost of paperwork and containerising bla bla bla makes it prohibitive to import even 440 gallon drums!

Duratex are looking for an Aussie agent so hopefully that will mean they'll make it available here in NZ - but at what price????????

Gosh I'm still grumpy about the Poms beating us at cricket - maybe I'll go for a drive and have some road rage to get it out of my system!

Harley
ImageSemi-retired: Former Australia and New Zealand Authorised BFM cab builder.

User avatar
Bill Fitzmaurice
Site Admin
Posts: 28916
Joined: Tue May 02, 2006 5:59 pm

#13 Post by Bill Fitzmaurice »

Harley wrote:
Because it's paint and therefore classed here as inflammable goods, t
It's water based, non-flammable.

User avatar
Harley
Posts: 5758
Joined: Mon May 08, 2006 2:45 pm
Location: Christchurch, New Zealand - Authorised BFM Cab Builder

#14 Post by Harley »

Bill Fitzmaurice wrote:
It's water based, non-flammable.[/quote]

I still think the same rule appies - "Dangerous Goods" covers "Paint" because "Paint" is tradtionally flammable.

To comply with OSH in our factiry ANY paint in a tin/quantity over 10litres must be stored in a special enclosure - that goes for acrylics as well.

Duratex also mentioned special transport requirements when I queried them exporting to us

Harley
ImageSemi-retired: Former Australia and New Zealand Authorised BFM cab builder.

bgavin
Posts: 5738
Joined: Thu May 04, 2006 10:58 am
Location: Sacramento, Moderator/Licensed BF Builder
Contact:

#15 Post by bgavin »

Harley wrote:maybe I'll go for a drive and have some road rage to get it out of my system!
Just drive on the American side of the road... that will do it for ya...

:mrgreen:

Post Reply