Omni15 2x12 TallBoy - Intro & Questions

[dcodym]

Hello all. I’ve been reading through the forums here for quite a while. The community is great. Everyone seems really friendly and fun. The pictures of everyone’s build are awesome. I can’t wait to get in on the action.

I have my plans purchased and have read over them a few times. I’m getting ready to start collecting materials and moving forward on my build. But before I do, I have a few preliminary questions.

1. Omni15 2x12 TallBoy or Jack212?
a. This is kind of a big question, I guess. After years of being a guitarist, I recently joined a hard rock cover band as a bassist – primarily playing a 4 string (Standard J-Bass), but I don’t want to keep myself narrowed down and will probably be getting a 5 string soon.

b. I’m not worried about the transport weight or anything. I’ve played in bands for years and am used to lugging stuff around.

c. Right now, I just have an entry level head – a Fender Rumble 150. I’ll be upgrading soon, hopefully – I’m looking at the Ashdown ABM Evo III (http://www.ashdownmusic.com/bass/detail ... =abm&ID=55). So for the cab I build, I want it to sound good on my Rumble 150 to get the most out of that amp, but I also don’t want the cab to be bound by it.

d. I’ve been focusing my research on the O15 TB 2x12, but the Jack has sort of been in the back of my mind, so I just wanted to throw this out there for discussion and see the community’s opinions on the Jack212 vs. O15 TB 2x12 for an electric bass rig for a hard rock band. (I also appreciate versatility in tone, hence purchasing a J-Bass over a P-Bass, even though most things I read said that for hard rock a P-Bass was the way to go.)

2. Mid range and Tweeter on the O15 TB 2x12?
a. Since I like to leave my options open tonally and have a full range of sound, I want to keep the mid range and tweeter in there.

b. For the tweeter, the plans mention that dual piezos are a less harsh option. I’m leaning towards this. Opinions?

c. If I went with the Jack212, I’d probably drop the tweeters altogether and just keep a basic 2x12 cab.

3. Finishing hardware questions
a. The plans mention going with Dura-Tex or carpet. I like the idea of going with Tolex. Specifically: http://www.speakerbuildersupply.com/ser ... lex/Detail. I want to throw the nickel corners on like in the photo there. I think that’ll look sweet.

What do you guys think about Tolex as a finisher? Would that be applied with 3M Super 77 spray adhesive, like Bill suggests for carpet?
Also, and this may be a noob question (like the others aren’t?) if I’m applying the Tolex (or any finish for that matter) before mounting the rear access panel, and if the rear access isn’t glued in, how do we ensure an airtight seal?

b. I also want to install these flush mount casters: http://www.speakerhardware.com/2_12_flu ... 2060bk.php. I saw a great build thread where someone had these installed on the back of their TallBoy with rubber feet under the front. I’m just wondering about the logistics of keeping this airtight and also about how it will affect the design and sizing of the back panels.

4. Crossovers
a. Can Leland do a crossover kit for the O15TB 2x12? I’ve seen the crossover for the 1x15 with the mid and the tweeter, but not the 2x12 with the mid and tweeter.

5. Finally – plywood
a. I’m seeking out furniture builders to try to get access to nice plywood, but I live in Saudi Arabia. So the logistics of going about getting good plywood that applies in the States and Europe don’t necessarily apply here. There isn’t a Lowe’s or a Home Depot. Mainly what I can find is contractor suppliers and the quality of the wood isn’t stellar.

What sort of drawbacks and possible problems am I looking at if I have to go with sub-par plywood?


Thank you guys in advance if you have any opinions or insight to share. I’m really looking forward to getting started. I really think I’m going to end up going with the TallBoy unless I’m convinced otherwise here. But to be honest, I see many builds in the future, so, even if I do the O15TB 2x12 first, I’m sure I’ll end up with the Jack212 at some point as well.

Later,
Cody

[Frankie G]

I was on my way to building an Omni15 TB but after alot of reading went with the Jacks. I originally wanted a Jack 212 but after more reading decided that two 1x12 boxes would be a better option for me. Alot of the time, say 60% I don't even need both with my local project and only bring one out. Either one or both can handle the B on my Fender Jazz 24 Six string bass no problem. I didn't put tweets in either cabs and have no problem going from an old school thump tone to a modern high fi sound! I posted a couple vids under the youtube links if you want to hear it. http://billfitzmaurice.info/forum/viewt ... 31&t=14621

1. After alot of reading I chose the Jacks route which seemed best for me.

a.I've played everything from classic rock to hard rock to jazz, blues and country through these things on 4, 5, and 6 string basses. They sound awesome.

b. I chose my route based on being modular. Why bring it if I don't need it.

c. I have an endorsement with Hartke and pretty much use those heads all the time and never had a rumble combo so I can't really speak on that.

d. I think I covered this already!

2. Left the tweets out and don't feel like I'm missing anything. I may just decided to add them later on, which is an easy thing to do, but for now I'm pretty happy.

a. All of Bill's cabs cover alot of ground and I don't feel like I'm missing anything!!

b. If you decide the jack route, go for two, single 1x12 cabs. Bring what you need plus they make a pretty cool looking stack! Here's a pic of mine.



c. I think I covered this one also!

3. There are a few threads on here where guys have used tolex. It comes out great if that is the look you are going for. As far as sealing the back panel I use the self adhesive foam weather stripping. Leland sells the stuff in his kits and it works out great.

a. 3M 77 is awesome and that's how I'd go.

b. Any screws that go through the wood into the cabinet I end up dabbing a little silicone caulk on just for piece of mind for being air tight. Never found any leaks. As far as the back panel, cut it according to whatever material you plan on finishing with. Leave yourself a little wiggle room.

4. Leland is an awesome fellow with an awesome business model. I'm sure if you asked him he would be more than happy to help you there.

5. Sub par plywood is just that, sub par. Use a ply that is at least 5 equal plies or more. Doesn't have to be baltic birch. There are alternatives. With sub par stuff you're chances of ending up with leaks and rattles are to high. This forum is great with alot of very helpfull people on it. If you have any questions about a plywood, snap a pic and post it. People will help. The first test I do with any ply, even when I'm told it's baltic birch is count the layers and scrape the top and bottom layers at the edge of the sheet with my thumb nail to see if they are the thin crappy outer veneers rather than an equal thickness ply. It reveals alot!

Sorry I couldn't help more on your tall boy parts of your questions but there are a few guys that have built some awesome examples here and hopefully they'll be along shortly to answer that for you. Good luck whatever way you choose and be sure and take lots of pictures, we like pictures!

Frankie G

[dcodym]

Wow, thanks Frankie.

I do like the idea of being modular, although, for most applications I can think of given the volume level of my band, I'm thinking I'd probably end up taking it all every time. Still, carrying in two 1x12s would be easier that carrying in 1 2x12.

Plus, if I had two 1x12s, I wouldn't have to worry about installing the casters. Also, I suppose that would help me get through my first build without having to worry about wiring the crossovers.

Still, though, I love the look of the O15 TB. The idea of the Jacks, though is still an option. Yours look RAD, by the way. Really nice work.

When you installed the recessed handles, is the whole for those cut all the way through? If so, do you put down a layer of PL before you screw the handles in and then, as you mentioned, dab some caulk onto the screws?

Thanks for the really thorough response. I'm going over to watch your vids now!


Thanks,
Cody

[LelandCrooks]

Thought I had one on the site. Send me an email and I'll price it for you. questions@speakerhardware.com

[dcodym]

You may've. I've been looking at so many things in the past week that it's possible I missed it. I'll double check before bothering you with anything.

Thanks!

[Frankie G]

Wow, thanks Frankie.

I do like the idea of being modular, although, for most applications I can think of given the volume level of my band, I'm thinking I'd probably end up taking it all every time. Still, carrying in two 1x12s would be easier that carrying in 1 2x12.

Plus, if I had two 1x12s, I wouldn't have to worry about installing the casters. Also, I suppose that would help me get through my first build without having to worry about wiring the crossovers.

Still, though, I love the look of the O15 TB. The idea of the Jacks, though is still an option. Yours look RAD, by the way. Really nice work.

When you installed the recessed handles, is the whole for those cut all the way through? If so, do you put down a layer of PL before you screw the handles in and then, as you mentioned, dab some caulk onto the screws?

Thanks for the really thorough response. I'm going over to watch your vids now!


Thanks,
Cody

Thanks Cody. No doubt the tall boy's look cool! As far as my handles...I made a jig out of MDF and routed out into the cab a 1/4", so not all of the way through. Although the screws I used to attach them go all the way through and they got the silicone treatment! The 1x12's are an easy carry. When I bring both it's easy enough to carry one in each hand!

[dcodym]

After more research and more reading. I think the Jack's have won me over. But now, like Frankie, I'm faced with the decision of a single 2x12 or two 1x12s...

Either way I plan on throwing some piezos in there with the on/half/off switch option.

Looking at the plans, though, I'm curious about how to integrate 6 or 8 flat mounted piezos into the 212. I'd want them on the top speaker, of course, but I just don't see how to mount them into the 212. Can anyone point me towards an explanation or maybe a photo of someone who's do this?

I'm off to scout out plywood after work, but until then, back to combing the forums.


-Cody

p.s. Leland, I saw the O15 2x12 kits. I'm not sure about the crossover kits, but they were included in the deluxe kits.

[Tom Smit]

May I recommend doing two J112s, and put a full melded array in one of them with the three position switch? This one, tweeted, cab would go everywhere, and both cabs go to the gig when needed.

[dcodym]

May I recommend doing two J112s, and put a full melded array in one of them with the three position switch? This one, tweeted, cab would go everywhere, and both cabs go to the gig when needed.

You may. This seems to be the most versatile approach. Heh, I think I'm going to end up doing exactly what Frankie G did: O15TB to the J212 to two J112s.

Although I still haven't ruled out the J212 and maybe just skipping the piezos altogether. Playing hard rock (Metallica, Alice in Chains, Nirvana, Stone Temple Pilots) and writing music that's basically along those lines, how necessary do you guys think the piezos are? In Frankie's vids, his cab sounded great with a nice brightness, even sans piezos. And like Frankie mentioned, couldn't I build two J112s and if I decided I wanted the piezos in one of them, add them later?

[BassMe]

Piezo's are cheap.

I'd put in the array on one cab, you have a switch to cut them out if you don't like em and then you won't sit there wondering if it could sound better?

You'd add say $50 to the build? $50 for the extra versatility of having a full range cab if you needed it for whatever reason?

Just my oft given 2c.

[dcodym]

Piezo's are cheap.

I'd put in the array on one cab, you have a switch to cut them out if you don't like em and then you won't sit there wondering if it could sound better?

You'd add say $50 to the build? $50 for the extra versatility of having a full range cab if you needed it for whatever reason?

Just my oft given 2c.

That's a good call. Thanks for the input.

[dcodym]

Alright, enough with weighing the options. Two J112s it is. I'll build the first with the piezos and the on/half/off switch.

And while I may be getting ahead of myself, I'm curious about 2 things:

1. Ensuring an airtight seal on the access panel.
Just cut it to fit snug and screw it in nice and tight?

2. Installing the grille cloth.
I've been searching all over for a good way to do this with the Jack's angled front. Would it be viable to extend the front and inch like with the with O15TB's full grille option?

I guess I could attach the frame from the outside of the cab with a screw and then cover that screw with the corners.

Also, what do you guys think about linen as a grille cloth? I saw a guy doing a build around here that mentioned linen and another guy who used a potato sack. I've read about how I need such and such a allowance for air passage, though. How does linen fit into that equation?

That grille cloth installation is the main thing I'm wondering about because I'm interested in knowing about extending the depth an inch before I start cutting.

[dcodym]

Great solution for attaching the grille.

Velcro!

http://www.parts-express.com/techHelp.cfm#showAnswer

And I won't have to play around with the dimensions at all.

Okay this thread is done for me. With any luck, my next posts will be in the build section and will include some photos of a Jack 112 in progress! Thanks for all the help so far.

See you on the other side!