The issue is a lack of a LPF going in to the Yamaha mixer/amp combo. Don't get the filter settings on the Onkyo confused with having anything to do with the subwoofer. The values set on the Onkyo are high-pass filters for what ever main speakers it's driving.
Sub isn't the problem, it's the electronics, just need to apply the correct filters. I assume your SVS's are powered and have their own filters on-board. Using the Yamaha as a subwoofer amp without an active crossover or DSP in the signal chain is not the way it's intended to be used.
Good food, good people, good times.
4 - AT
1 - TT
1 - THT Slim
2 - SLA Pro 4x6 Alphalite
Radian wrote:The issue is a lack of a LPF going in to the Yamaha mixer/amp combo. Don't get the filter settings on the Onkyo confused with having anything to do with the subwoofer. The values set on the Onkyo are high-pass filters for what ever main speakers it's driving.
Sub isn't the problem, it's the electronics, just need to apply the correct filters. I assume your SVS's are powered and have their own filters on-board. Using the Yamaha as a subwoofer amp without an active crossover or DSP in the signal chain is not the way it's intended to be used.
I always thought that the receiver was supposed to handle the LPF xover (I always cranked the xover on the svs subs all the way up to bypass them and have the receiver take care of it)... I thought the only filter on the amp that was really necessary was the High Pass Filter
wormraper wrote:I always thought that the receiver was supposed to handle the LPF xover
That's a negative Ghost Rider. Even with Audyssey, you still need to setup band pass regions using the correct filter points. A good starting point would be to set the subwoofer to yes and all frequencies to 80Hz in the "2-2. Speaker Config" menu. But it still won't sound remotely like it should until you have an adjustable LPF on the signal going to the subwoofer amp.
wormraper wrote: I thought the only filter on the amp that was really necessary was the High Pass Filter
With the THT, using a HPF should be the least of your concerns, unless you're pluggin' more than 28V across it.
Good food, good people, good times.
4 - AT
1 - TT
1 - THT Slim
2 - SLA Pro 4x6 Alphalite
wormraper wrote:I always thought that the receiver was supposed to handle the LPF xover
That's a negative Ghost Rider. Even with Audyssey, you still need to setup band pass regions using the correct filter points. A good starting point would be to set the subwoofer to yes and all frequencies to 80Hz in the "2-2. Speaker Config" menu. But it still won't sound remotely like it should until you have an adjustable LPF on the signal going to the subwoofer amp.
wormraper wrote: I thought the only filter on the amp that was really necessary was the High Pass Filter
With the THT, using a HPF should be the least of your concerns, unless you're pluggin' more than 28V across it.
huh, makes sense I guess. yeah, I have all those settings on the speaker config menu.
as for lpf's would yanking the bash amp from my SVS PB-10 and using that to power the THT until the Dayton 240 watt amps come back in stock????
wormraper wrote:as for lpf's would yanking the bash amp from my SVS PB-10 and using that to power the THT until the Dayton 240 watt amps come back in stock????
Yup! Just be mindful that that amp may have some onboard EQ programed into it unique for that driver (bass boost for example). A Dayton bash or equivalent would be the correct tool for the job as soon as you can get one.
Good food, good people, good times.
4 - AT
1 - TT
1 - THT Slim
2 - SLA Pro 4x6 Alphalite
wormraper wrote:as for lpf's would yanking the bash amp from my SVS PB-10 and using that to power the THT until the Dayton 240 watt amps come back in stock????
Yup! Just be mindful that that amp may have some onboard EQ programed into it unique for that driver (bass boost for example). A Dayton bash or equivalent would be the correct tool for the job as soon as you can get one.
hmmm, not sure about that... don't think that SVS actually did bass boost on any of their drivers. and yeah, I'm waiting for the Dayton 240s to get back in stock (not till april 28th ) or find another manufacturer
When you plug the SVS amp into the THT, set both the Low Pass and Gain knobs to 11 o'clock as a starting point. In addition, (in the Onkyo) make sure the subwoofer trim setting "2-4. Level calibration" menu is at 0 dB, and that in "2-3. Speaker distance" for the subwoofer is set to 20.0 ft. Let us know how it sounds then.
Good food, good people, good times.
4 - AT
1 - TT
1 - THT Slim
2 - SLA Pro 4x6 Alphalite
Radian wrote:When you plug the SVS amp into the THT, set both the Low Pass and Gain knobs to 11 o'clock as a starting point. In addition, (in the Onkyo) make sure the subwoofer trim setting "2-4. Level calibration" menu is at 0 dB, and that in "2-3. Speaker distance" for the subwoofer is set to 20.0 ft. Let us know how it sounds then.
I have the sub at -4 on the amp. and the gain at 12 o'clock right now (where I usually set it for my pb-10) and the pb-10 amp doesn't have an adjustable lpf. it's a locked one at like 18 or 23 hz I can't remember... anyways... thanks for the advicve on this... it was the amp. the boominess. all gone. more overhead than I know what to do with and my low frequencies are back!!!! easily matching the dept of my svs subs just with so much power behind it that I don't know what to do with
yeah me too. the longer I use this puppy the better and better it sounds. seems like I didn't break it in enough before I put the driver in. I'm loving it
now my wife has deemed me mentally ill now that I'm SERIOUSLY considering acquiring another THT
And I bring the old thread back once again. I'm having to redo the access panel on my new THT that I snagged yesterday due to air leaks. I'm just going to mount the access panel over the top like I did my first one instead of create that inside lip and have it go flush with the 36x36x36 side panel
being that it's $8 + $8 shipping for more gasket tape from Parts Express would this work??
(I usually double the width of the gasket tape anyways so the 1 1/4 inch width is perfect)... it's a bit more rubbery than the foam weather stripping so I was thinking it might be more air tight... or would the standard foam tape weather stripping work fine?