jswingchun wrote:Why not get the cheapo harbor freight texture spray gun? It works well, and I assume you already have an air compressor.
The shop where I build @ has a compressor available but not much heat....so the 65 deg. minimum temp is gonna be tough to hit. I remembered those bigger hoppers when I did my popcorn ceiling...cant imagine using one of those bruits to do the Duratex or is there smaller one I'm not seeing?
You can put as much or as little Duratex in there as you want. It is very easy to use. If you search around on the forum there are a lot of hints and suggestions. I can't remember which sprayer tip I use, but I apply at a very low air pressure, as was suggested a while back by Leland, I believe. I put a coat of black latex house paint on my cabs prior to spraying Duratex, but some people don't. Some people paint on a watered down coat of Duratex instead of other primers.
I don't get the temperature thing you are talking about, unless you are just saying the temp will affect your ability to use Duratex at all, not affect how you might apply it.
Omni 10
Omni 10.5
OmniTop 12 x 4
Wedgehorn 8 x 3
XF212
T39 @ 18" x 2
T39 @ 20" x 2
T39 @ 28" x 2
Jack 110 x 5
Jack Lite 12
XF210
XF210 (Slant only, no crossfire)
jswingchun wrote:
I don't get the temperature thing you are talking about, unless you are just saying the temp will affect your ability to use Duratex at all, not affect how you might apply it.
Duratex needs to get hot to cure well, +120 degrees being ideal as I recall. That easiest done putting the cab under the hot sun for a day or two. Winter and trying to cure Duratex aren't the best combination.
I had a lot of issues with the Harbor Freight pneumatic sprayers. I bought the Wagner and it's get her done.
I rolled a laptop stand I built with a 4" Acrytech roller designed for Duratex. I felt like I had more control (and obviously less mess) and I used less material.
When I did my OT's I let them sit in the sun the day after painting (it got dark when I was done) and then again the next day. I'm happy with the results, it's passable and they look as pro as can be considering I built them in my home garage with less than a year experience building anything.
jswingchun wrote:
I don't get the temperature thing you are talking about, unless you are just saying the temp will affect your ability to use Duratex at all, not affect how you might apply it.
Duratex needs to get hot to cure well, +120 degrees being ideal as I recall. That easiest done putting the cab under the hot sun for a day or two. Winter and trying to cure Duratex aren't the best combination.
Yeah, I understand that. The way the original post was worded made it seem like the temperature was a factor in his decision of how he was going to apply the duratex. That's the part I was trying to sort out.
Omni 10
Omni 10.5
OmniTop 12 x 4
Wedgehorn 8 x 3
XF212
T39 @ 18" x 2
T39 @ 20" x 2
T39 @ 28" x 2
Jack 110 x 5
Jack Lite 12
XF210
XF210 (Slant only, no crossfire)
The Duratex label states it has to be at least 65deg. The shop where I work at is about 56deg. and is very very large. It has radiant floor heat and it would take 6-8 hours to get it up to 65. was hoping that the Wagner would work so that I could just spray my cabs @ my home where it is 70 deg. I went and looked @ the Wagner sprayer last night and it was missing a very important part....a flow control...no way would I attempt to use such an item. I was having a hard time getting down a smooth base coat (using a 4" roller) and knew that if I was having roller edge marks that it would also happen with the 4" texture roller...boy was I WRONG. That little roller I got from Speakerhardware rocks! what a nice finish it leaves...no sprayer needed
