Any one using a DRPA w OT212s?

[LEVLHED]

I still haven't had a chance to use the setup thingy on my Driverack PA to flatten out my Otop 212's w/ 3012's @ melded arrays. I was wondering if anyone else out there has done a EQ program to flatten the cab that they could share? I'm looking to set up the post EQ to try and get it as flat as possible with that. Then use the Wizard if/when possible to work on the room EQ.

Does that make sense?

[LEVLHED]

Is this chart 3012HOs?

[SeisTres]

Those charts are were replaced. These are the new ones with the new baffle (with the phase plug in the center). Posted both since you are piezos but are using the 3012ho.

[LEVLHED]

Thanks. I didn't realize there were new charts.

Is the chart I posted with the 3012HO or not?


Mine are the older style, not the phase plug baffle thingy. Is there a significant difference in freq response?



I can see now that there is a very significant difference between this and the previous chart, not nearly as flat so I understand how it would be difficult to work with the PEQ to flatten that.
I'm also not liking the really big difference in the 200 and down curve between the two charts. That's not at all what I expected after asking about this two months ago http://billfitzmaurice.info/forum/viewt ... =3&t=13558

Looks like I need to EQ down to under 100dB in order to get flat to 100hz which is where I currently cross to the subs.

[LEVLHED]

mine are 2x12's, not 1x12's so I assume the graphs posted are wrong anyway.

[SeisTres]

I posted the charts with the 2512 and the 3012; they are labeled as such. The reason I did was because the 3012 is paired with the nsd which you are not running. And yes, these are indeed single otops, not duals. For duals, just flatten out the curve a bit more and raise the low end a little more than you would raise the high end. (around 500hz, of course, only one or two db's anyway). These charts have been up since the new phase plug design came out. However, they were first posted in the spl thread and chris later added them to the spl tool which might be the reason the new graphs were never posted in your thread when you asked.

PS. The new design didn't change much save for the phase plug which really only matters in the upper range of the cab(around 1-2Khz), so I would still try the eq with the new curves.

[LEVLHED]

can anybody tell me which drivers are represented in the graph I posted?

Thank you

[LEVLHED]

Is this chart 3012HOs?

[SeisTres]

2512

[Zack Brock]

I can see now that there is a very significant difference between this and the previous chart, not nearly as flat so I understand how it would be difficult to work with the PEQ to flatten that.

Bill stated in another thread that the reason the charts for the phase plug baffle are different is because he was able to improve the accuracy of his measurement technique around that time if I recall correctly, not because the response is more ragged than the non-phase plug baffle.

Why can't you perform the AutoEQ function? It is stupid simple and only takes about five minutes. I have a DRPA hooked up to some Jack 10's and Tuba 24's at a local church and the AutoEQ feature works pretty nice. I typically run the AutoEQ on the high setting every three months or so, and then tweak to taste. I adjust both the graphic EQ and the PEQ to taste.

[LEVLHED]

Executing the auto-eq isn't always appropriate in certain situations.
Bars/reception halls full of people enjoying themselves don't want to be blasted with pink noise so I am interested in utilizing the DRPA to make the best of those situations via a preset or something.
Whenever possible I will use the auto-eq.

[Zack Brock]

Executing the auto-eq isn't always appropriate in certain situations.
Bars/reception halls full of people enjoying themselves don't want to be blasted with pink noise so I am interested in utilizing the DRPA to make the best of those situations via a preset or something.
Whenever possible I will use the auto-eq.

Right, which is why you AutoEQ your speakers outdoors to be flat ahead of time (or whatever baseline sound you like).

Then when you get into a room with acoustics that need to be corrected, you adjust the speakers to taste from there. You've already AutoEQ'd ahead of time and therefore will only have relatively minor adjustments to make depending on the room. Any EQ adjustment you are making in a room is simply EQ'ng the room really, not the speakers. Not trying to talk down to you, just trying to help with a different perspective on the process

[LEVLHED]

No worries, I don't feel talked down to.
I was just trying to figure out a way to do this without having to drag it all out into the snow.