How to cut handles?

[Fatlimey]

Excuse my ignorance here. I've been learning a lot by making every possible mistake on my first "sacrificial" T30 and I think I'm getting a little better at woodwork now. One thing still mystifies me - how to cut perfect handles?

My access panel was a circular saw plunge cut finished off with a jigsaw. I practiced on some scrap to cut the handle holes using a circle drill bit, joining them using a jigsaw and rounding with the router, but the results were less than stellar. I have a router and used it to make my circular baffle holes and the results were perfect. What bit and what kind of jig do I need to make handles without stressing out every time?

There has to be a better way.

[Sydney]

With a pattern following bit and a template you can create any shape...
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/build ... 68/index2/

Syd

[DaveK]

Circular saw and a saw sled or guide board. Line up the guide, plunge the saw in, and run it end-to-end. Finish off the ends with a saber saw. When you are done, save the cutout to use as the access panel.

[Rune Bivrin]

Circular saw and a saw sled or guide board. Line up the guide, plunge the saw in, and run it end-to-end. Finish off the ends with a saber saw. When you are done, save the cutout to use as the access panel.

Dude, the handles! Not that I've yet built a Tuba, but I doubt the handles are large enough to serve as access panels...

I've always drilled four 8mm holes in the corners and then just used the jig saw. Follow up with sanding. But if you want it really good looking the template with a router is the way to go.

This is one of the reasons why spring loaded handles were invented. They cover up your mistakes pretty well

[DrDoug018]

Leland used to sell a template for the handle cutouts but I don't see it any more on SpeakerHardware so maybe he has none left.

I followed the instructions in the plans using a 1 1/2" bit and then connecting the holes. For me it is also hit or miss. Some come out perfect, others notsomuch.

Since these are gigging cabs I have become less and less concerned with how perfect they look. If I manage to get both holes the correct distance from the edge, I consider the handle a success. So far I am about 15 for 20.

Doug

[LelandCrooks]

They changed. I need to make some new templates.

[bzb]

I used the pattern bit to create my pattern. I'll take pics of my jig when I get home.

Marked the centers of the 1.5" holes and cut them with a hole saw/drill.

Aligned a straight piece of 1/2" along the bottom edge and used the router with the pattern bit to cut a straight line across the bottom and top.

On one jig, I added a half inch strip to align with the pieces that go to the edge of the sides (that don't have the half inch of another panel butted up against it). Otherwise, it's clamped flush to the edge using the other jig.

[Fatlimey]

I'll take pics of my jig when I get home.

Please, that would be great. Sounds exactly the jig I need to make.

A picture would help me understand how to cut the frame of the the jig correctly so that all I need is edge alignment to get the handle in the right place every time, whether it's the panel with the 1/2" allowance above or not.

Thank you!

[DaveK]

Dude, the handles!

Oops. I was reading a little too quick late at night.

Are we talking metal/plastic handles with their own dish, recessed flip handles, or Bill's special built-in handles?

For handles with their own dish, I do the same as access panels. Line up the circular saw sled, plunge cut with the saw, and finish off with a saber saw. Just be sure not to plunge too deep.

Deep recess flip handles are done with the same method and a backing plate of plywood to seal the hole. Shallow handles I mortise out with a router set to the correct depth, a pattern following bit, and a template.

Bill's special built-in handles are done in 3 stages. First, mark the handle outline and rough cut to about 1/8" inside the line with a saber saw. Second, finish off with a pattern following bit and a template. Third, round edges with a roundover bit.

[bzb]

Here's a couple pics of the one with the 1/2" strip on it. The top edge of the handle hole is 1.5" from the top. The center of the hole saw is 2.25" from the top.

The other one is just the hole cut out of it... it was the "test" piece that I cut from the first template... and decided to keep it as the second jig.

Yeah, I could have just clamped one 1/2" offset, but then I wasn't guaranteed it was straight The way with the edge makes me have to have two jigs (which is always good anyway), but it allows me to just butt it up against the edge of the workpiece and screw it down.

Remember - the blank one goes on pieces that go to the edge of the side. The one with the strip goes on the ones that butt up to another piece (so you eliminate 1/2" off the measurement).


Untitled by bzbatl, on Flickr
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Untitled by bzbatl, on Flickr

[Fatlimey]

Marvellous. Thank you very much Mr bzb.

[bzb]

They changed. I need to make some new templates.

Wait, just noticed this... what changed?


And no problem, Limey. Pics definitely help.

[sine143]

hahaha, finally getting there aye limey? I cut mine with a draw saw and a paddle bit. tad on the ghetto side haha.

[LelandCrooks]

I believe the size changed on the otops with the new baffle.