
I love my autotuba! I drive a 2001 Econoline 15 passenger extended chassis van and put on 30k to 40k miles a year. The autotuba is mounted behind the driver's seat firing at the wall/B-pillar area. So I guess it would be wall loaded. It is powered by a Dual 300 amp ($50 at Walmart). The extension is fantastic. When playing DVD's through the Pioneer AVH-4000DVD head unit on trips the rumble is better than lots of theaters than I've visited. Everyone who has heard the Autotuba as well as myself is amazed at the extension and clarity. There is one problem. I now realize that my mains SUCK!

I have used every bit of the Parametric EQ in the head unit to get the mains on an even footing with the Autotuba. It can't be done they must be repalced. I toasted 2 MCM drivers with accidental transients while setting the crossovers in the head unit.
NOTE TO SELF: when adjusting the settings for sub output and crossover TURN THE AMP OFF! 
After destroying another MCM I decided to upgrade to the Tang Band W8-740P driver from Parts Express. Thirty dollars more but WOW!

My 18" wide Autotube just got more present at the bottom end and less boomy at the top. I was able to move my crossover point from 80Hz to 125Hz to give the mains a hand WHICH NOW SUCK EVEN MORE! I am going to replace the mains with Infinity Reference units for now. I have planned a scaled down version of the Wedgehorn10 I call the Wedgehorn5 to mount on top of the Autotuba for use as mains. We'll see how that goes.
Bottom Line:
1. If you are able get the Tang Band it is worth every bit more cost.

2. IF YOU BUILD AN AUTOTUBA TO USE WITH STOCK/OEM MAIN SPEAKERS GET READY TO REALIZE HOW MUCH THEY SUCK!...or better yet just plan on a upgrade of you main speakers with the Autotuba build.

Can anyone tell me if there is a HPF I can use inside the Autotuba to protect the driver?