When applying the standard Walmart mattress pad foam to the inside of the cabinet what glue holds best? I've used 3M 755 (recommended) and it didn't work. I used Elmer's Water Based Contact cement on a second cab and re-glued the first cab with it as well. I'm going to open them up tonight to see if it held or not. It's been a month or so now.
Even if the Elmers is holding good... it soaked up a lot of the glue and I'm afraid it might end up quite hard and brittle by now. So a glue option that stays mostly on the surface and doesnt' wick in to the foam will be much better.
From some of you who've been doing this for a few years, what is the "for sure will stick cause I glued it last year and it's still holding tight" option?
Please respond as quickly as possible cause I'd like to do this tonight so my Bass Player can use the cab Saturday night... ha ha ha...
Hey Rickisan... I used the 3M 77 stuff to hold the WalMart mattress pad foam and it works great for me. I think the key is spraying it thick and then letting it dry a bit before placing on the wood so it gets tacky first. I also sprayed both the wood and the foam in some areas to create an even greater bond.
That being said, I've also heard of and considered using staples to hold it because the glue is messy and a pain. Gets everywhere. Leaves your arm hair feeling weird for a couple of days.
I used hot glue on my OTOP but I haven't really checked to see how it is holding up but I know there is nothing floating around in it. It is quick to work with as well. I just applied a nice line of it pushed down the mattress topper a couple of inches at a time.
OT12 2512 Driver Only
Jack 2510 Driver Only
AT MCM 2421
On Deck...
Melded Tweeter Array added to OT12
A brother for the Jack 10
Zack, I'm building the Jack 110 with the Deltalite 2510. I hope to use it to convince our bass player to buy the materials and I will build him one. He's got this little Peavey sealed enclosure with a 15" that just sounds horrible. I'm going to put the dampening in before I glue the sides on basically to get as much as possible covered with the foam. I just think it will sound better a little better that way. On my Wedgehorn's it was very difficult to get the foam to cover back inthose crevices.
Also I plan to build another Jack so to A/B against our Peavey SP2's (I think) to see if we can save on weight and sound better. Right now we don't have any kind of driverack or anything like that but want to do the whole thing with a couple of amps and some T39's eventually.
Do you have experience building or hearing the Jacks? I think there is a BFM guy over in Gainesville between the three of us we'llhave to meet up sometime. My In-Laws are up in Jax and down in Keystone so I'll give you a shout next time we head that way. I'd love to hear anything BFM in any venue.
I've always used cheap white glue. Never had any problems.
"Any intelligent fool can make things bigger, more complex, and more violent. It takes a touch of genius, and a lot of courage, to move in the opposite direction."
Rickisan wrote:
Do you have experience building or hearing the Jacks? I think there is a BFM guy over in Gainesville between the three of us we'llhave to meet up sometime. My In-Laws are up in Jax and down in Keystone so I'll give you a shout next time we head that way. I'd love to hear anything BFM in any venue.
Take Care, Rick
Right now I have a pair of Jack 110's loaded with Beta 10 woofers and crossfire tweeter arrays that I intend to hang on to as demo cabs. We should get together and you can check 'em out! I'm a bass player and my first cab was a 1980's Peavey TNT130 sealed with a 15" Peavey Scorpion woofer. If what your bass player is using is anywhere near that, the Jack 110 should blow him away.
In an O10.5 I found when cut to a proper fit, most of the foam pieces would just stay in place due to their shape and size (fit around baffle and braces). IIRC the back panel was about the only place that really needed glue. I think I used some PL like glue, we don't have the real thing over here.
