DR Reflector cutting

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Harley
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DR Reflector cutting

#1 Post by Harley »

Two jobs I just don't look forward to - one of them is slitting the PVC pipe for the DR reflectors.

Here's a method I found worked a treat.

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First, I use my compass to draw two circles, one the size of the pipe and anther just slightly larger. I mark a centre line through the circle.

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I place the pipe on top of the pattern, center it and then mark the pipe on the centre line at 180 deg apart ( two marks )

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I use my table saw gate on one side, and my 'over 45 degree angle cutter jig' on the other, spaced so that the pipe sits snuggly between, but the tangent of the pipe sits in the middle of the blade.

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With my blade set at about 1-1/2" high, I guide the pipe slowly through. using my fingers of each hand as guides against the saw fence gate and 'over 45 jig' which ensures a long straight cut.

IMPORTANT :cop: Never run the cut all the way through. Stop at about 1/2" before the end and turn the saw off. If you don't the inner tension of the plastic pipe will force the end closed quicker than your wife's legs at headache time, and as the sides close in, the saw will keep cutting.

Flip the pipe over, line up the 180 degree mark and make your second cut.

Simple, easy and not very dangerous.
ImageSemi-retired: Former Australia and New Zealand Authorised BFM cab builder.

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Zack Brock
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Re: DR Reflector cutting

#2 Post by Zack Brock »

Excellent tip, thanks Harley! I'll be sure to use this on my next DR build.
Two jobs I just don't look forward to - one of them is slitting the PVC pipe for the DR reflectors.
What is the 2nd job?
Zack Brock
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Bill Fitzmaurice
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Re: DR Reflector cutting

#3 Post by Bill Fitzmaurice »

Use an abrasive blade. The potential for kickback using a toothed blade is too great, and abrasive blades are dirt cheap, so there's no excuse for not having one.

bzb
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Re: DR Reflector cutting

#4 Post by bzb »

At first glance, it looked like you had your own Harley branded orange pipe :lol:

Good tips on stopping the cut, and the abrasive blade. I've never used one of those before, but I've seen em all the time in the Depot. Is there a particular one that you'd recommend?
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Bill Fitzmaurice
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Re: DR Reflector cutting

#5 Post by Bill Fitzmaurice »

bzb wrote:the abrasive blade. I've never used one of those before, but I've seen em all the time in the Depot. Is there a particular one that you'd recommend?
They make them for cutting ceramic or metal, either will work, but metal cutting is probably more versatile, unless you're doing some tile work.

WB
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Re: DR Reflector cutting

#6 Post by WB »

I cut mine very similar to how Harley did it, except I clamped the pipe to the the secondary fence (my table router fence, normally) and pushed the whole works. I stopped short on the first cut as well. I also stuck a flat head screwdriver into the the beginning of the first cut after about 1/3 of the way thru to jam open the kerf to prevent the back end of the cut from clamping onto the blade. It helps cut down on the head generated from blade friction which results in a nicer cut. I don't bother changing blades, the regular wood blade works nice, as long as you don't go too fast and generate heat, which melts the plastic for an ugly cut. I used black ABS instead of PVC only because I already had some.

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jeffsco
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Re: DR Reflector cutting

#7 Post by jeffsco »

Here's a tip that you might want to try. When making boxes or cases....I will often lower the saw blade so that it just doesn't quite cut thru the side. That way...you can make all your cuts and the "lid' won't collapse into the saw blade. You then take a sharp knife and slice thru the remaining "web". A little sandpaper and your ready to go. Can't see why it won't work for cutting the pipes. Using this method, you don't have to worry about the pipe closing on itself and binding the blade.

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Bill Fitzmaurice
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Re: DR Reflector cutting

#8 Post by Bill Fitzmaurice »

jeffsco wrote:Here's a tip that you might want to try. When making boxes or cases....I will often lower the saw blade so that it just doesn't quite cut thru the side. That way...you can make all your cuts and the "lid' won't collapse into the saw blade. You then take a sharp knife and slice thru the remaining "web". A little sandpaper and your ready to go. Can't see why it won't work for cutting the pipes. Using this method, you don't have to worry about the pipe closing on itself and binding the blade.
+1, that's how I do it, it's been so long since I've done a DR I'd forgotten. :noob:

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