drill press for dr's and tuba's

[phil]

When I drilled out my 1st 2 DR280 baffle's/rings for the driver, I tried drilling as straight as I could, but noticed when I installed the brass inserts and bolted the driver down, they weren't completely straight and had to do a small amount of finagling (just put a little pressure in one direction on the bolts when I hand screw them down) to get the driver bolted down without resistance.

I'm thinking with all the horror stories about getting the driver in these things, it would probably be of great benefit to have completely straight holes.

Do you guys see this as enough of a problem to validate getting a drill press, and if I do, is there any part of the t36 build that would benefit from having a floor standing press, as opposed to a 10"?

Either way it will be a harbor freight model.

Thanks
phil

[Bill Fitzmaurice]

I'm now recommending using screws to mount neo magnet drivers in all of the cabs with driver spacers. Between the very light driver weight and the full inch of plywood for them to grab hold of it makes more sense than struggling with various insert nut options. I use 1-1/2" pan head #8 screws.

[phil]

I'm now recommending using screws to mount neo magnet drivers in all of the cabs with driver spacers. Between the very light driver weight and the full inch of plywood for them to grab hold of it makes more sense than struggling with various insert nut options. I use 1-1/2" pan head #8 screws.

Sounds good. Looks like I need to get the updated plans. Mine don't have the adjustable tuning either which I don't think will be necessary on most, but would be nice on a couple of them to be used by themselves for things that don't need the low output.

[Harley]

I'm now recommending using screws to mount neo magnet drivers in all of the cabs with driver spacers..

That's a bit of a mission on DRs Bill. I've got 8 DR280s on the go right now and looked at doing that, but I opted for tee nuts finally.

When I drilled out my 1st 2 DR280 baffle's/rings for the driver, I tried drilling as straight as I could, but noticed when I installed the brass inserts and bolted the driver down, they weren't completely straight .....Do you guys see this as enough of a problem to validate getting a drill press,

If you're just building a few cabs and stopping there - not worth it IMO

HOWEVER - if it's an excuse to get another tool in the MC ( man cave ) then go for it

It's my honest opinion that every man should be born clutching a chain-saw, a mig welder, a belt sander, a jasper jig, and as many clamps as possible.

The Table Saw and Drill Press are mandatory 1st year birthday presents and the routers come when you start school. Actually, I'm going to have a word to Him Upstairs about this when I get the call. It will solve a lot of the world's problems I reckon.

[Israel]

A drill press is a valuable tool for cab building and in general woodworking (I want one for my bday) as for all my tools ill go to the best i could pay or the best deal i see...... if you have a hand drill try to keep the woodpiece from mooving,,... if they gone offset a little but you can drive the screws in, better this will give extra holding strenght

Tools Tools Tools ah and tolls too (remember to capitulate them always)

[David Carter]

Not as good as a drill press, but my Ryobi cordless drill has a bubble level on the back of it that I use to get my bit straight before pulling the trigger. It's been very helpful.

[phil]

Thanks for all the info. So I know I can get by with the cheap $80 10" for the DR's. I'm really worried about using screws on these as it seems like it's not easy as it is to replace the drivers. It seems like it would be way harder to drive screws in a finished box?

Is there any part of the tuba builds that I would need to fit the box under a floor standing press? It's quite a bit more expensive, but if it will make it easier building my herd of t-36's it would be worth it.

It seems though, that the only thing that would really benefit from a drill press on the tuba's would be the driver mounts. It seems like it wouldn't be as much of a problem using screws in that.

Harley,
"HOWEVER - if it's an excuse to get another tool in the MC ( man cave ) then go for it"

LOL, I don't say this often, but Amen!

On the other hand though, the wife has been so patient with my purchases of a table saw, router, grinder, jasper jig, etc...and all the wood and accessories with this project, I'm sure she wouldn't mind a bit if I didn't spend another $250 on another tool, although thankfully she fully supports any decision I make .

Thanks for all the advice!

[phil]

A drill press is a valuable tool for cab building and in general woodworking (I want one for my bday) as for all my tools ill go to the best i could pay or the best deal i see...... if you have a hand drill try to keep the woodpiece from mooving,,... if they gone offset a little but you can drive the screws in, better this will give extra holding strenght

Tools Tools Tools ah and tolls too (remember to capitulate them always)

Thanks for the good advice Israel.

I clamp down when I'm drilling so it doesn't move, and it's not so off that I can't screw the bolts in with a small allen wrench, I just have to lightly push on the bolt head while I'm turning on a few of them.

You're comment about extra holding strength is the situation I believe I'm in. I'm just not sure if I'll have the room to get an extra finger in when I'm done to apply that little bit of pressure.

[Harley]

YOu can make yourself a drill guide - or at least get someone to do it for you.

Go to a local engineering shop that services machinery using large shafts.

Get them to cut a 2"thick block off a piece of 4" shaft ( say ) and drill a hole ( the size of your drill bit ) with their drill press smack dab in the centre ( through the shaft centre-line )

The 4" dia will be a large enough surface area to keep the hole perpendicular.

It will be a perfect 90 degree every time.

[jcmbowman]

It's my honest opinion that every man should be born clutching a chain-saw, a mig welder, a belt sander, a jasper jig, and as many clamps as possible.

The Table Saw and Drill Press are mandatory 1st year birthday presents and the routers come when you start school. Actually, I'm going to have a word to Him Upstairs about this when I get the call. It will solve a lot of the world's problems I reckon.

I just read that to my wife and she patted me on the head and said "Really? So you just started school!"

[Ken Lustgarten]

First I vote for the drill press. They just come in handy for so many things. For drilling holes like these I just eye the drill up really well and my holes always come out right. I realize that not everybody can do that. There are a couple of other options. You can buy a cheap drill guide in the big box stores or if the router you bought is a plunge router you can use that. Plunge routers are excellent for making perfect holes. I use one and a jig for drilling shelf pin holes in cabinets with an upspiral bit.

[phil]

First I vote for the drill press. They just come in handy for so many things. For drilling holes like these I just eye the drill up really well and my holes always come out right. I realize that not everybody can do that. There are a couple of other options. You can buy a cheap drill guide in the big box stores or if the router you bought is a plunge router you can use that. Plunge routers are excellent for making perfect holes. I use one and a jig for drilling shelf pin holes in cabinets with an upspiral bit.

My router is a plunge router! Very good idea that just allowed me to wait until I can afford a proper drill press rather than just buy a hf to get me by! I never would have thought of that. Thank you!

[WB]

The 4" dia will be a large enough surface area to keep the hole perpendicular.

It will be a perfect 90 degree every time.

That's what I did and it works great. I used a small brass block instead because I wanted it to get into tight spots.

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[LelandCrooks]

I have a drill guide I've had for years and years. It's a round block with a handle that extends up and out. Circular guide with holes in it for bits up to 3/8. The block rotates to the correct bit size. Handy as hell. I did a little internet searching and couldn't find it however.