It seems that everyone has problems getting PL on them, and I haven't, so I thought I'd share my method and see if it's something I'm doing. I love the stuff.
Instead of cutting off the nozzle end, I make a hole in it with a nail. The hole is small and the bead that comes out can be controlled very easily. The only downside is the need for increased pressure squeezing the handle and patience spreading it around.
PL tip for clean, accurate use
PL tip for clean, accurate use
AudioFlyer DJ: DR200 & Titan39/Titan48
BASS: Combo Amp & Titan39
BASS: Combo Amp & Titan39
Re: PL tip for clean, accurate use
Thanks, will surely try this on my next tube. But what about when it get dry? doesn't it clog up the hole?
Built:6 t39, t18, 4 Jack10, 2 autotuba, 2 SLA,2 wedge, 2 TT, 2 Tritrix, curved sla, 2 otop212, 2 SLA pros, Ported 8" sub, 2 ported 210, dual ported 8" sub
Re: PL tip for clean, accurate use
I did purt' near the same thing, only I wrapped the nail with a folded layer of wax paper which handled any squeeze-out. And I just let the squeeze-out build up until I was done the tube.
TomS
Re: PL tip for clean, accurate use
I cut the tip of the tube nozzle, but I cut at a 45 degree angle, and I cut a relatively small hole. It makes it very easy to control the flow and the placement of the glue.
Most of the time I wind up with PL on my hand it's from inadvertently coming into contact with one of the other panels. If I only do one panel/brace combo per day and let it cure things stay clean.
Most of the time I wind up with PL on my hand it's from inadvertently coming into contact with one of the other panels. If I only do one panel/brace combo per day and let it cure things stay clean.
Low End Junkie for over 20 years.
4 DR250s
4 Tuba36s @ 30" wide
2 ATs
...and a very serious addiction to the smell of BB sawdust and curing PL.
4 DR250s
4 Tuba36s @ 30" wide
2 ATs
...and a very serious addiction to the smell of BB sawdust and curing PL.
Re: PL tip for clean, accurate use
I stick the nail back in to seal it, and it gets some PL dried and stuck to it. The hole seals itself around the nail, essentially. Next time I pull out the nail and it's ready to go. If the build-up on the nail is too much, I use a razor and cut it off.
AudioFlyer DJ: DR200 & Titan39/Titan48
BASS: Combo Amp & Titan39
BASS: Combo Amp & Titan39
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- Posts: 638
- Joined: Tue Nov 11, 2008 3:21 pm
- Location: Worcester, MA
Re: PL tip for clean, accurate use
I don't bother with the PL in a caulk gun. I have a bunch of syringes from McMaster and I fill them up with PL and throw them in zip lock bags, and when I need to glue, I just grab a syringe. Much easier to maneuver, more coverage control less mess, efficient, and if it gets stopped up- I don't lose an entire tube of PL.
DJ TecThreat
-Building-
8 More T48's
-Built-
11 T48 @ 24" 3015LF ( Using 8 )
8 OTop12 - Thread after they were built. & Review, using them w/o subs.
4 SLA Pro's
"Life is one grand, sweet song, so start the music." - R.R.
-Building-
8 More T48's
-Built-
11 T48 @ 24" 3015LF ( Using 8 )
8 OTop12 - Thread after they were built. & Review, using them w/o subs.
4 SLA Pro's
"Life is one grand, sweet song, so start the music." - R.R.
- jswingchun
- Posts: 1073
- Joined: Fri Dec 01, 2006 9:43 am
- Location: Cedar Rapids, Iowa
- Contact:
Re: PL tip for clean, accurate use
Speaking of losing an entire tube of PL...djtecthreat wrote:I don't bother with the PL in a caulk gun. I have a bunch of syringes from McMaster and I fill them up with PL and throw them in zip lock bags, and when I need to glue, I just grab a syringe. Much easier to maneuver, more coverage control less mess, efficient, and if it gets stopped up- I don't lose an entire tube of PL.
I built an entire XF212 from a mostly used up tube of PL that had the nozzle completely sealed shut. I just poked a hole in the side of the tube with a nail and squeezed it out the hole and applied it with a popsicle stick. When I was done for the day the nail hole would seal up and then the next day I would just poke a new hole in the carboard. I ended up poking a bunch of holes in that tube. I wouldn't want to build a T39 that way, but it worked great for something as small as the XF. From now on if I ever have a tube where I don't finish it off on a project and it will be a while before I am building again, I will set that tube aside and use it for doing small parts of builds and save the brand new tubes for the big parts of builds.
Of course, it's pretty messy. It is accurate though...
Omni 10
Omni 10.5
OmniTop 12 x 4
Wedgehorn 8 x 3
XF212
T39 @ 18" x 2
T39 @ 20" x 2
T39 @ 28" x 2
Jack 110 x 5
Jack Lite 12
XF210
XF210 (Slant only, no crossfire)
Omni 10.5
OmniTop 12 x 4
Wedgehorn 8 x 3
XF212
T39 @ 18" x 2
T39 @ 20" x 2
T39 @ 28" x 2
Jack 110 x 5
Jack Lite 12
XF210
XF210 (Slant only, no crossfire)
Re: PL tip for clean, accurate use
I just make a small 45 degree cut at the end, use a short decking screw to cap it.
I get it all over my fingers when I smooth it on the insides of a joint. I just like that added insurance that the seal is made.
I wear gloves when I "caulk" the panels now.
I get it all over my fingers when I smooth it on the insides of a joint. I just like that added insurance that the seal is made.
I wear gloves when I "caulk" the panels now.
Bobby Shively
Purveyor of fine aged hip hop
Traktor S4 - Vestax VCI-100 - TTX - MOTU Ultralite - Yamaha 01V
Built:
T39 13" BP102, 24" 3012LF - AT - OT12 2512 - SLA Pro - T24 - Jack 10
Powered by XTi 1000 & 2000
Purveyor of fine aged hip hop
Traktor S4 - Vestax VCI-100 - TTX - MOTU Ultralite - Yamaha 01V
Built:
T39 13" BP102, 24" 3012LF - AT - OT12 2512 - SLA Pro - T24 - Jack 10
Powered by XTi 1000 & 2000