HowieZ DR200 build

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howiez
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Re: HowieZ DR200 build

#61 Post by howiez »

Yes normally they go through reflectors I think.
I put a small piece of ply on the other side of the horn with a 1/4" x 1/4" groove dadoed. Then after it cured, I drilled through it with a 1/4 drill bit to get through the horn mouth side. THen I glued the back side shut when I put the curved backs on. Now my plan is to use this hole as a pilot to drill back through the rear in the buttcrack. I have to stay below/inside that ply or i'll cut through into the horn path and they'd be junk.

You guys and your eyes, finding all these subtle details!

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Seth
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Re: HowieZ DR200 build

#62 Post by Seth »

If I understand you correctly, you did something like this
Screenshot (134).png
Clever way to route them, somewhat incognito, without wires in the horn path. Pretty slick :thumbsup:
Build in process - 2 WH6, one Alpha 6a loaded, one PRV Audio 6MB250-NDY loaded

Two 2x6 shorty SLA Pro's
One T39, 16", 3012LF loaded
Tall AutoTuba, 20" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421
TruckTuba, 8½" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421

howiez
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Re: HowieZ DR200 build

#63 Post by howiez »

Seth wrote: Sun Dec 05, 2021 6:32 pm If I understand you correctly, you did something like this
Yes, I just went wider, full throat width. I wanted it 'inside' the curved backs so when i drill through them so it's longer/deeper. And I angled it to make it somewhat perpendicular to horn path, and tapered that edge down.
I wanted 100% PL around the future drill path. With the example you show, a 1/4" drill would cut through both curved backs right at the entrance to the channel. The tangent of the drill cylinder would be exactly on the edge of two 1/8 thick plys. And with wood tolerances, I'm confident it would break through somewhere, see my photo. For demonstration I made a simple square/rectangular wire channel 1/2 x 1/2 with 1/4 by 1/4 groove and showed the theoretical 1/4" drill into one of the curved backs. I removed the other to show the cylinder tapering out.
Possible break through
Possible break through
In the second screenshot the blue part is my 'wire channel'. I matched the reflectors and the taper to the horn throat Then I used my multi tool to carve the curve to match the buttcheeks. It's length is far enough past the 'crack' that I have 1/2" of air between the curved backs for clean drill through without breaking through. And the wood is over 1/2" thick where I drill through, so not breakout. I'll fill that drill through with caulk when the wires are in. At assembly of back curves I PL'd the whole crack, even filling the wire groove, knowing the drill will walk through that easily from the inside out. I should have enough 'channel' to guide my drill back out. I'm using a 1/4" x 18" long flex drill bit for that step.
Wire path mod
Wire path mod

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Seth
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Re: HowieZ DR200 build

#64 Post by Seth »

Love it!

I think, even without the added piece of channeled ply, it would be fine if sealed up at both ends with PL.


You must have a R E A L L Y long drill bit to be able to get at it from the inside and not drill out through the bottom.
Build in process - 2 WH6, one Alpha 6a loaded, one PRV Audio 6MB250-NDY loaded

Two 2x6 shorty SLA Pro's
One T39, 16", 3012LF loaded
Tall AutoTuba, 20" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421
TruckTuba, 8½" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421

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Bill Fitzmaurice
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Re: HowieZ DR200 build

#65 Post by Bill Fitzmaurice »

Electrician's bit.

howiez
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Re: HowieZ DR200 build

#66 Post by howiez »

Bill Fitzmaurice wrote: Mon Dec 06, 2021 1:53 pm Electrician's bit.
Yes!

Local Menards called it something else. But that was what i wanted, a 4ft flex bit, and this was far cheaper for my budget!

howiez
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Re: HowieZ DR200 build

#67 Post by howiez »

Seth wrote: Mon Dec 06, 2021 12:43 pm Love it!

I think, even without the added piece of channeled ply, it would be fine if sealed up at both ends with PL.


You must have a R E A L L Y long drill bit to be able to get at it from the inside and not drill out through the bottom.
Probably would seal fine. but horn angle to drill through one way and split curved back perfectly the other way. This way I glue in my channel. Drill from back, through the angle of horn throat, using that channel as a guide. Also keeping parallel to the cab bottom. That sets me up for a guide on the next operation. If I had drilled from the front, I'd have to work over the lip the module mounts to. This way my flex bit pilots from inside after curved back is glued. Then drill front to back using that last hole as a guide. This goes through the PL and the curved backs into the crack piloted up the middle and hopefully parallel to the cab bottom.

Bit was 18" long and ~$10. In smaller sizes it flexes OK, the shank being the same diameter as the drill. As you get bigger the shank stays 1/4" i think, and the bits get larger. That would get into the 'Electricians bit' as Bill pointed out. Wanted one, they are closer to $100 for one piece, and most are larger than what I needed.

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Re: HowieZ DR200 build

#68 Post by Bill Fitzmaurice »

There are a number of different electrician's bits. Some are made for snaking behind drywall and then drilling through two or more studs. Mine is 12 inches long, intended to go through wall footers and the floor beneath before the drywall goes up.

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Seth
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Re: HowieZ DR200 build

#69 Post by Seth »

Really well thought out Howie! Thanks for sharing the whole thought process.

I'm enjoying the heck out of this thread! :thumbsup:
Build in process - 2 WH6, one Alpha 6a loaded, one PRV Audio 6MB250-NDY loaded

Two 2x6 shorty SLA Pro's
One T39, 16", 3012LF loaded
Tall AutoTuba, 20" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421
TruckTuba, 8½" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421

matmonster58
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Re: HowieZ DR200 build

#70 Post by matmonster58 »

I'm excited to see how well this driver works. The affordability is what draws me to bfm designs

howiez
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Re: HowieZ DR200 build

#71 Post by howiez »

matmonster58 wrote: Tue Dec 07, 2021 7:04 am I'm excited to see how well this driver works. The affordability is what draws me to bfm designs
Same.
I can always swap to an Eminence if it sucks, but for my purposes, it'll be fine i think.
I bought the Dayton microphone for Android, hoping to get some data when i'm done. I'm a n00b at this so my frequency plots are sketchy at best. But I'll give it a whirl for sure!

howiez
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Re: HowieZ DR200 build

#72 Post by howiez »

Not much progress as of late.
I have the mouths cleaned up. I removed any nails that shot out sideways. I used a nail set to sink any heads that were proud. I finished painting the mouths so they are starting to look finished internally.
Mouths painted
Mouths painted
I started on the melded array jigs per the plans. I roughed out the wood shapes Friday and glued the base up for each. Today I cut the saw slots and put stops in. Maybe next weekend I can murder some piezos?
base of melded array jigs
base of melded array jigs
Melded array stop blocks
Melded array stop blocks

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Seth
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Re: HowieZ DR200 build

#73 Post by Seth »

Howie, looking good :thumbsup:

A note about the Piezo's before you get going on them. I found that a toothed blade cuts the plastic just fine. But, on my saw, the blade would grab the screw head, pull it from it's threads, and swiftly eject it from the immediate area.

So, a couple recommendations.

1) Use an abrasive blade
2) and/or use a modified approach to making the array that doesn't require cutting the screw heads... As noted by Anton in Grant Bunter's DR250 build thread, switching every other piezo's orientation. This is the approach I plan to take with my DR200 build.

The latter will allow you to reduce the cut depth and just trim the frame edges of the flange, keeping the screw heads and screw bosses intact. It looks to be the superior method, especially for cabs that have the wiring hidden. For cabs that have the wiring exposed, dealers choice, keep the wiring centered and as hidden as possible or possibly see wiring but have assembly be easier.
Last edited by Seth on Mon Dec 13, 2021 3:16 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Build in process - 2 WH6, one Alpha 6a loaded, one PRV Audio 6MB250-NDY loaded

Two 2x6 shorty SLA Pro's
One T39, 16", 3012LF loaded
Tall AutoTuba, 20" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421
TruckTuba, 8½" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421

howiez
Posts: 314
Joined: Sun Mar 16, 2014 5:23 pm
Location: Fox Valley, Wisconsin

Re: HowieZ DR200 build

#74 Post by howiez »

Seth wrote: Sun Dec 12, 2021 8:58 pm So, a couple recommendations.
I had read that thread a few times and was thinking about doing the same. Grant's work is impeccable and a great resource. I may check to see if mine are removeable as well, and take them off for cutting.
Although in that case i would not have made my jig saw cuts so deep! Oh well, seems sturdy enough.

The OCD in me might make me set them all the same direction so the wiring is pretty LOL.

I'll have to see what is available in 10" abrasive blades. My worry there is it'll be wider than my thin kerf Freud and my jig spacing will be wrong now. I have no idea, but I feel like the 12" abrasive blades we use to cut bricks for our ladscape were much thicker than 1/8...

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Seth
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Re: HowieZ DR200 build

#75 Post by Seth »

I hear ya on the OCD wiring. That's the reason I chose to do it by the book for my Wedgehorns, since the back of the array is exposed and visible without grills (I'm not putting grills on them). Being that the rear of the array isn't visible on the DR's has me leaning the other way for that project. Personally, I think the wiring still looks pretty tidy when the elements are reattached with every other one clocked 120° left and right. None-the-less, I look forward to seeing whatever solution you choose :thumbsup:

Looks like Frued thin kerf blades are 0.091". This is the abrasive blade I put in my saw and it's 3/32" (0.09375"). I don't think 3/1000th's over would matter.
Build in process - 2 WH6, one Alpha 6a loaded, one PRV Audio 6MB250-NDY loaded

Two 2x6 shorty SLA Pro's
One T39, 16", 3012LF loaded
Tall AutoTuba, 20" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421
TruckTuba, 8½" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421

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