HowieZ DR200 build

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howiez
Posts: 314
Joined: Sun Mar 16, 2014 5:23 pm
Location: Fox Valley, Wisconsin

Re: HowieZ DR200 build

#16 Post by howiez »

i should add, i'm still torn on power for these. Currently my pair of Titan48's are used in my garage, side by side near a corner, with dual BASH 300 plate amps just sitting on top driving them off an old Onkyo reciever with a pair of Bose 201's I bought at a garage sale in the early 90's. It's more than enough sound for a garage, maybe overkill, but just the right amount of 80's rock bass for me!

SO back to power. My youngest son really wants these plug and play. I seriously considered that Dayton bluetooth amp Bill mentioned a few years back as showing promise. What i'd love is for a plate amp in each box with enough DSP to limit them. Since these weill almost never get used in a pro sound application, my wife may kill me if I drop 1.5K on a Driverack PA2 and two amps. I was hunting hard for the old parts express B-52 closeout sub amps from last January, but that closeout dried up. You see them used from time to time on ebay for $100ish. I thought maybe that paired with the Dayton...

Anyone ever use like LASE amps from Mackie or EV in a box?

Anyone ever buy amps from Sanway? some decent specs there for a cheap build like mine... There is a nice amp with 1200w sub, and 2x500 mid/high. That would allow me one amp per box, should fit in the DR200 square if I build a little 3" extension on the back, or I may build it into a stand with the tilt holes in Bills plans.

Yes i've thougth this through, and NO, i haven't thought this through...

ahh the fun...

Bruce Weldy
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Location: New Braunfels, TX

Re: HowieZ DR200 build

#17 Post by Bruce Weldy »

I've never paid more than $250 for a used Driverack. You don't need a PA2. Pick up a PA, PA+, or PX. They will all do the job just fine (I have all three of those). One Crown XLS 1500 will drive up to 4 DR200s. You can get those used for $200-300 -sometimes less. A lot less than messing with plate amps.

The problem with plate amps is trying to find a mono amp that is full range. Most of the mono amps are for subs and have a set low pass around 200 or so. The Dayton is fine, but it's long and expensive....and you'll only be using one of the two amps in it, unless you are going to let it handle your crossover duty. Then you have to try and get each amp to match the other.

Last of all, I don't think the Dayton would fit on the back of a DR.....fine for SLA Pro, though.

Bottom line, grab a used Driverack and a used amp. Build a couple of speaker cables then you can put the speakers wherever you want and don't have to worry about getting power there too.

6 - T39 4-25" 2-22" 3012LF
4 - OT12 2512 Melded/NSD2005
1 - T24
2 - XF210


"A system with a few knobs set up by someone who knows what they are doing is always better than one with a lot of knobs set up by someone who doesn't."

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Seth
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Re: HowieZ DR200 build

#18 Post by Seth »

For garage duty, you could probably run the whole thing, subs and tops, off a little Lepai 2.1 amp and be happy with the output.

However... the power of DSP is amazing. I'd highly recommend incorporating DSP tunability. If it's going to spend it's whole life in the garage powered by mix-match home audio stuff (or the little Lepai), take a look at the Dayton Audio DSP-408.

Otherwise, I'm completely aligned with Bruce's input for nearly anything beyond mild home use.

I'm really anxious to hear your impression once these are completed.
Build in process - 2 WH6, one Alpha 6a loaded, one PRV Audio 6MB250-NDY loaded

Two 2x6 shorty SLA Pro's
One T39, 16", 3012LF loaded
Tall AutoTuba, 20" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421
TruckTuba, 8½" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421

howiez
Posts: 314
Joined: Sun Mar 16, 2014 5:23 pm
Location: Fox Valley, Wisconsin

Re: HowieZ DR200 build

#19 Post by howiez »

I have a wiring question whilst I'm pondering my next amplifier steps here.

I bought all the parts for crossovers, intending to run these off my receiver while in the garage. Can I wire for bi-amp direct to the drivers, and still have another speakon (or push terminals) to the crossovers? I thought I read somewhere that having the crossover there messes with the signal? Maybe I need some type of switch to cut out the crossover?

I don't do electricity, 220, 221 whatever it takes...

Incidentally, someone has a (new) Driverack PA2 in the used gear section for 250 plus shipping, seems too good to be true, but I may snap that up!

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Bill Fitzmaurice
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Re: HowieZ DR200 build

#20 Post by Bill Fitzmaurice »

I wouldn't bother with bi-amping for what you're doing.

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Seth
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Re: HowieZ DR200 build

#21 Post by Seth »

If you can manage it without risk of spousal homicide, definitely scoop that PA2 up. The seller has been an active member here for quite a while. Seems $250's about the going rate for used (or never used open/no box without warrantee) PA2's. There's one on Reverb for the same price too.

I'm with Bill. There's no reason to bi-amp with your intentions. And with this design, there's little to no reason to bi-amp under any practical circumstances. Unless you just want to tinker for the sake of tinkering. That's the only reason to do so. If that's the case, yes, you'll need a switch.
Build in process - 2 WH6, one Alpha 6a loaded, one PRV Audio 6MB250-NDY loaded

Two 2x6 shorty SLA Pro's
One T39, 16", 3012LF loaded
Tall AutoTuba, 20" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421
TruckTuba, 8½" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421

howiez
Posts: 314
Joined: Sun Mar 16, 2014 5:23 pm
Location: Fox Valley, Wisconsin

Re: HowieZ DR200 build

#22 Post by howiez »

I was able to get my sheath braces/frames glued up yesterday. I left them a little long and I tapered them to size afterwards.
Then I cut my module backs and lined them up for size/taper and match marked some holes. Hope I can get those nacelles easily...
Attachments
DR200 module drilling.jpg
DR200 sheath frames.jpg

howiez
Posts: 314
Joined: Sun Mar 16, 2014 5:23 pm
Location: Fox Valley, Wisconsin

Re: HowieZ DR200 build

#23 Post by howiez »

I spent most of this morning cutting sheath cleats. I tried to taper all the ends 3 degrees, and make left/right ones, top/bottom. I swear I have 2 left feet. I labelled them all bottom right, top left, those match, and bottom left, top right etc. I still struggled getting them to fit. I have PL EVERYWHERE. I may as well have glazed the whole cab like pottery. I hope it all works in the end. I'll have to cover my work with lots of paint, oh wait, nobody will see the inside right?

except all of you!
Attachments
Cab 1 sheath
Cab 1 sheath
Cab 1 sheath side view
Cab 1 sheath side view
Cab 2 sheath
Cab 2 sheath

howiez
Posts: 314
Joined: Sun Mar 16, 2014 5:23 pm
Location: Fox Valley, Wisconsin

Re: HowieZ DR200 build

#24 Post by howiez »

While the sheath cleats and braces are curing, I cut the back and side braces.
My son had just bought a new templating router bit, so i employed that with pretty good results.
I routered one back brace with my circle jig, then roughed the other 3 on the table saw and templated them out.
Back braces
Back braces
Same thing with the side braces, I roughed all 4 out with table saw and jig saw. Then I sanded one close to profile and used it with the template bit.
DR200 side braces.jpg
Lastly I decided to roundover the leading edge. I've seen a few do it, and I had on my tuba and titans, I like the subtle change.
DR200 sbrace round.jpg

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Tom Smit
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Re: HowieZ DR200 build

#25 Post by Tom Smit »

All that PL is fine. However, it seems that there is a little bit of PL, that is proud, on the top RH sheath cleat. Try and make sure that all the contact areas of the sheaths will not jut out, and cause aggravation, LOL.
TomS

howiez
Posts: 314
Joined: Sun Mar 16, 2014 5:23 pm
Location: Fox Valley, Wisconsin

Re: HowieZ DR200 build

#26 Post by howiez »

Tom Smit wrote: Sat Nov 13, 2021 9:52 pm All that PL is fine. However, it seems that there is a little bit of PL, that is proud, on the top RH sheath cleat. Try and make sure that all the contact areas of the sheaths will not jut out, and cause aggravation, LOL.
I was figuring i'd have some scraping to do! when i've built THT and Titans, it's always been easy to use a sharp chisel after it cures. With the DR's they are so tiny/intricate, I've finger-tooled some joints, and scraped others clean with a metal spatula after they ooze out. I'm hoping a small bit of chisel work will take care of that!

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Bill Fitzmaurice
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Re: HowieZ DR200 build

#27 Post by Bill Fitzmaurice »

It will come off easily with a chisel, but don't wait until it's fully cured.

howiez
Posts: 314
Joined: Sun Mar 16, 2014 5:23 pm
Location: Fox Valley, Wisconsin

Re: HowieZ DR200 build

#28 Post by howiez »

I let it sit about 12 hours then scraped, not bad, but I should have hit it last night late i guess. I have the two cabs cleaned up, extra PL out of the important faces and crevices. I put a little white primer inside before i glue the sheath sides on today. I always like priming my cabinets inside and out just for a bit of wood protection and the clean look. Ok, i'm covering up my PL! I used white on these, all my black primed boxes make it to hard to see inside!
Hopefully i'll have some action pictures later today.

howiez
Posts: 314
Joined: Sun Mar 16, 2014 5:23 pm
Location: Fox Valley, Wisconsin

Re: HowieZ DR200 build

#29 Post by howiez »

A little more progress today. I have the inside prime pictures.
insdie primer
insdie primer
I was also able to get the horn sheaths on .
sheathed pair
sheathed pair
cab 1 sheath
cab 1 sheath
cab 2 sheath
cab 2 sheath

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Tom Smit
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Location: Sarnia, Ont. Canada

Re: HowieZ DR200 build

#30 Post by Tom Smit »

Okay. It is now a couple of hours later since you posted the photos, which makes it time to clean off the PL from the front edges of the sheaths. Removing the PL when it is soft enough, without smearing, makes for easier cleanup and better matching of mating parts.
TomS

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