Before I soldered my DIY Cover for my Omni 12TB

[Tom Smit]

Yay, you got it installed! Talk about persistence!......

[Grant Bunter]

Yay, you got it installed! Talk about persistence!......

+1.
Well done!

[djlivex]

Thanks guys it was awkward but yes I was driven, LOL

[djlivex]

Have you used this to seal the cab from the back panel door? I have used 1/4" window foam weatherstrip plus rope putty to seal but when you screw the panel in, the door sticks out. Will this be enough to avoid leaks, its neoprene so kinda spongy. Thanks

[NukePooch]

Not sure if it'll work for you, but I use this to seal drivers and doors/panels/etc.

https://www.parts-express.com/parts-exp ... l--260-542

[djlivex]

Looks the same as the window weather strip foam, thanks i will try it

[Tom Smit]

Make sure that it is, indeed, closed-cell. Neoprene is available as open-cell which is not the appropriate material for these uses.

[djlivex]

Oh God guys, there's a Bigger Problem,,, so I connected hastily meaning bare wire just to see a signal. Turntable-DJ Mixer-Amp-Omni'sTB. So I connected Speaker 2 and sounded awesome loud and clear via 12" and 6.5", the Apt80 has that zizzle that I like for dance music. Then I connected Speaker 1 no Bass all mids and highs. Now is there a faulty crossover component? The 12" is not even moving, usually if theres a signal the woofer should be moving minutely, shouldn't it? Then I connected the bare wire again back to Speaker 2 and wala music, what could have happen to Speaker 1? Im confused its the same components connected as shown above pics of crossover on page 1 of this forum. Thanks

[Grant Bunter]

Disconnect the crossover from the woofer, grab a 9 volt battery and some bare ended wire, connect directly to the terminals of the suspect woofer. +on battery to + on woofer, and - to -.
You should get a fairly distinct cone movement forward.
If not, the driver is the issue.
If you do, then the crossover is the issue.
One step at a time when trouble shooting...

[djlivex]

Ok Grant will do that tomorrow first thing in the morning, wifey had me driving all over the place. But this is a brand new woofer? Ok will check tomorrow thanks!

[djlivex]

Ok Grant couldn't hold my breath til tomorrow so I got a new 9V battery connected to +/- the cone moved forward. At least we eliminated the expensive neo woofer, whew! Thanks now the crossover?

[Grant Bunter]

Both woofer boards are identical yeah?

Just do a quick visual to make sure that the board that doesn't work looks identical to the board that does.
And check the wires going from your three way connector to the woofer are good, and from the woofer board to the woofer as well...

[djlivex]

Ok Grant thanks will do that tomorrow morning, I'll check all the wires it should be all the same me thinks

[djlivex]

I just checked all connections its all tight, maybe one of the crossover component is dead? I'll take it out and take a picture for you to see they look alright to me the connections and look the same as the other board. Thanks Grant

[Tom Smit]

Are all the solder joints in good shape? If you look reeeeeaaaalllly close, you should see that the solder is fully contacting all the points that it should. If there appears to be a "crack", touch a hot soldering tip to the solder to make it flow.
Is the wire properly stripped/exposed at the end terminals on both ends of the board?
Is the board getting the signal from the Speakon?
Is the woofer getting the signal from the crossover output terminals?
Do you remember how to use the ohm meter portion of your DMM? If you touch one probe to the -ve post, and then touch various points along the way, it may help to find the culprit. Here goes. First, test the output of the output of the first cap, then the input of the second cap. This tests the solder joints of either side of the first inductor/coil. Second, test the output of the second cap, then the +ve output terminal. This tests the joints of the second inductor/coil, and the +ve wiring to the terminal output. Third, test from -ve input terminal to -ve output terminal. Obviously, this test the connections of the negative side. Also, test from the +ve input terminal to the leg to the cap. Wherever you don't have continuity of less than 1 ohm you have a problem to fix.