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Looks great in the Liberty. Here’s mine in Ford Focus ST. Same for me, love how it sounds on Factory amp, but still might add a small amp. Love Seth’s dual tuba, too!

PTCary, thanks for your review! When I first got my AT going, I used an off-spec 8" auto door speaker, and was pleasantly surprised. After a few months, I got the MCM driver and an Alpine 150w sub amp and was thrilled. Hopefully, you will get to enjoy your TT for a long time! Thanks Tom, I hav...

Glad it worked out for you. As for the sound deadener, if it needed it the plans would say so. Car doors need to have added mass to control vibrations because they can't be braced. Properly braced cabs don't need added mass, and they don't need to be made from 3/4" material. 1/2" with eve...

As predicted it’s great! It is a step up from my t-line in terms of output and it blends into my front stage better too, that surprised me about it. I am currently using same sub from the t-line, Image Dynamics ID8 dual 2 ohm voice coil version. FS is lower than requirements so I don’t know how much...

It’s still a bigger is better mentality. I come from the car audio world. I have a show car with 3800 watts 'Mental' is the right term. My four piece band is powered with 1270 watts. That's everything, guitar and bass amps and full PA system, mains, subs and monitors. We run this in 3000 square foo...

Really interested in the efficiency of Bills designs. I can tell you this.....most guys like to brag about how much power they have in their rigs - I brag about how little power I need to get my rig the same volume as they do. Bruce I understand. It’s still a bigger is better mentality. I come from...

I'm late to this thread, but have some similar experience. Built a TT for my son's Honda Pilot. We bypassed the factory 10 and used the factory amp to power his. It was a 3ohm system. We actually chose an Infinity sub with good enough TS parameters, but also had both 2 and 4ohm wiring options with ...

Well I cut the hole for an 8” so no 10. I have a couple of 8”s in my collection to try out. One of them has Fs that is lower than Bills specs and the other has Vas that is lower than Bills specs. Other specs fall right in the middle of the requirements. If they do not work well, I will end up switch...

Bill Fitzmaurice wrote: ↑Fri Sep 01, 2023 3:00 pm Pay attention to Qts. Subs intended for auto sound in sealed boxes tend to have Qts over .50, which isn't suitable for horn loading.

Thanks Bill!

I'm curious if those two channels are bridgeable for a single 4Ω driver. I'd imagine they are. It would certainly be worth investigating. Thanks Seth, unsure on that. Sony Amps in Fords are not very forgiving. If so, That would open up the option of the MCM driver. The entire system is 2 ohms. Ever...

Okay. Do you think Dayton 10 in truck tuba on 35 watts at 4 ohms would be okay in car? Is there a ‘minimum’ wattage that truck tuba needs?

Thanks Bill! But the Dayton only comes in dual 4 ohm. I need a dual 2 ohm driver. I can get that B2 driver for $60. I'm not a car audio guy, but why is 2 ohms a requirement? 4 ohms is easier on the amp. Usually, the ohms resistance is stated as minimum - which would mean that 4 would be fine. Hi Br...

It’s a 200w rms driver and regular price is same as Dayton. If only Dayton was dual 2 ohm.

Thanks Bill! But the Dayton only comes in dual 4 ohm. I need a dual 2 ohm driver. I can get that B2 driver for $60.

Hello everyone, new here working on a truck tuba from Bills plans. Coming from a low powered 8” t-line and very curious about this horn. Deciding on 8” vs 10” but my car setup (Sony DSP) requires a dvc 2 ohm sub driver so options are limited. I read that xmax and cone area are deciders for these hor...