BillFitzmaurice.info

Okay I'm a complete novice to the entire pro audio world. I've read through the DCX manual and seriously attempted to figure this out but after a few hours of failing I figured I would ask some pros.

I've got
1 DCX 2496
1 GX5
2 Omni 10.5s
2 Tuba 24s

What I'm attempting to do is have channel 1 of the DCX send to the subs which are chained together and have channel 2 sent to the 2 tops which are also chained.

Here is what I've done so far.

Mixer is connected to input a/b of the DCX.
Output 1 of the DCX is connected to channel 1 of the GX5 which is outputted to the subs.
Output 2 of the DCX is connected to channel 2 of the GX5 which is outputted to the omnis.

I think my problem is with the configuration of the DCX but feel free to correct me if I've wired stuff incorrectly.
I've got channel A and B summed and the output set to mono.
Channel 1 (subs) is set to input sum and filtered at 40 hz and 110hz.
Channel 2 is also set to input sum and filtered at 110hz and 17khz.

When I try to run this with these settings nothing happens. The mixer has a signal but nothing happens in the DCX. No LEDs flash or anything.

If I've left out necessary info let me know.

You may want to post some pics of your setup screens, it may aid in the diagnosis.

BrentEvans wrote:You may want to post some pics of your setup screens, it may aid in the diagnosis.

+1

If the mixer is plugged into Input A, make sure it's not set to AES/EBU.

you could try reading the manual once again, looks like you missed some parts

it should be like this : first push the setup button, set to mono

make sure your A+B input source is on analog, now those inputlights should light.

then press your channel 1 button, go thru the pages and set your crossover as needed.

oh, and set sum to A + B, and then use sum as input for each channel...

that should be it

While were at it, has anyone used the auto-align feature with good results? Won't work on mine.

E.M. wrote:While were at it, has anyone used the auto-align feature with good results? Won't work on mine.

Yes, works everytime, but you have to make quite some noise...

I'll get some pictures up when I get home from work. I'm also going to quadruple check the wiring to make sure everything is connected properly.

it should be like this : first push the setup button, set to mono

make sure your A+B input source is on analog, now those inputlights should light.

then press your channel 1 button, go thru the pages and set your crossover as needed.

oh, and set sum to A + B, and then use sum as input for each channel...

All of these steps I had all ready completed, the only difference being the input lights never light up unless I specifically selected them individually.

Either way, I'm going to have another go at this tomorrow and try and spot the simple mistake I must be making here. Thanks for the responses!

you did put the mutes off, right ? no red lights under the outputchannels ? they are are on by default.

Yes I un muted all the active channels but I really wouldn't be surprised if it ends up being something very simple like that.

I don't want to consider this yet because I haven't spent much time troubleshooting this but I did buy this unit used and I know these units have a reputation for breaking pretty easily. Wont be going down this road for a while though.

if you press the sum button, is the in select set to a + b ?

in the setup menu it's easiest to set it to LHLHLH, no need to set it to mono as you're only doing 2-way.

paul_ulrix wrote:if you press the sum button, is the in select set to a + b ?

in the setup menu it's easiest to set it to LHLHLH, no need to set it to mono as you're only doing 2-way.

Yes for sum I have a+b selected. I'll try out LHLHLH also when I get home from cleaning toilets tonight.

I thought up the solution at work. I've been using this Ecler Nuo 3 for the last 4 years and have only ever used the RCA outputs on it. Then I remembered that the XLR output is on a different volume control then the RCA output. Had I known this there would not even have been a problem. Thanks for the help though guys, much appreciated. At the very least I got a pretty good understanding of the features on the DCX.

It had to be something like this

I like mine alot so far, easy to configure, the outputs are quite hot.

just played around with mine a bit while playing bassguitar thru my hifi speakers and autotuba connected to check how deep it needs to go for a convincing bassguitar sound.

looks like I don't need much deeper then 50-60 hz highpass for that and most under it is just mud anyway, so not much need to spill power there.

paul_ulrix wrote:just played around with mine a bit while playing bassguitar thru my hifi speakers and autotuba connected to check how deep it needs to go for a convincing bassguitar sound.

looks like I don't need much deeper then 50-60 hz highpass for that and most under it is just mud anyway, so not much need to spill power there.

Hey Paul, did you try your bass on that TH you build . Are you sure you don't need deeper than 50-60 hZ .

tried it, got nauseous

it's too much on bassguitar, don't need that much output so low, i much prefer the roloff of my regular bassreflex basscabs for that.

for amplifying kick drum it's amazing, i put an audix D6 in the hole on the front skin, TH going from 40 to 80hz, and the rest to some DAP 115K (crappy plastic box with 15 inch + 1" tweeter in a horn).

still i don't think this TH is a great design, the sensitivity is great, but it runs out of excursion fast, if you look at my other topic you can see i have simmed a front loaded horn with the 3015LF in a cab that would be about the same size, that would get the same sensitivity (starting with 102,5db at 40 hz and slowly rizing too 106db at 100hz) but the main advantage would be way less cone excursion so it would get 4db's extra output (in theory).

+ I need to put in alot more bracing, it doesn't rattle now, but i can feel the walls on the cab flexing, so it must be losing output because of that. luckily the cab is so big i can crawl into it