How to apply Warnex/Duratex with roll to get pro looks?

[Marko Ursin]

I'm into making two Omni10.5's. I'm going to make them from Baltic birch plywood as that's what we mainly have in wood store. I've ordered 2kg Warnex for covering the cabs. How should I apply it with roll to achieve a good looking surface? What kind of a roll, any other tips?
Marko

[djohnson573]

I don't know how pro they looked (I will leave that opinion to others), but this is what I used on my T39s:

http://www.acrytech.com/catalog.asp?pro ... prevnext=1

I was absolutely pleased with the result.

[WB]

Not familiar with Warnex, but I've use Duratex with roller many times. Here's a few things I learned by practical experience:
Pre-paint the box with flat or satin black paint.
Have all rollers and brushes lined up and ready to go.
Use rollers that have a rounded roller edge, not a sharp 90 degree edge.
Have small rollers ready.
Take a small roller and cut it into smaller pieces to be used for tamping in tight places the roller won't reach
Plan ahead how you're going to support the box and/or flip it over so you can do the whole thing in one shot without smearing any of the sides. I like to support it between two tables and/or use wood screw to support the box off the table.
Start with the most difficult areas first, such as the inside of horns and port areas.
For these areas I brush the Duratex on and then use the rollers.
When done the hard areas, then do the large outside surfaces.
Always place the lid on the container as you're rolling because it'll form a skin very quickly.
Likewise, keep moving quickly, and plan on having no interruptions because it dries very quickly.

[WB]

http://www.acrytech.com/catalog.asp?pro ... prevnext=1

I had Acrytech include several of those rollers in my first Duratex order. They do work well.

[AntonZ]

Thijs has used Warnex on his DR250 IIRC. I will PM him, see if he can give us some advice from personal experience.

I'm also doing O10.5's , have some Warnex waiting for it. But time is scarce at this moment. I expect you will be painting sooner.

[David Carter]

I don't know how pro they looked (I will leave that opinion to others), but this is what I used on my T39s:

http://www.acrytech.com/catalog.asp?pro ... prevnext=1

I was absolutely pleased with the result.

+1. I cut mine in half so that I could reach into small areas.

[thijs666]

Hi Marko,

I used Warnex on 2 T48's, 4 DR200's, 2 WH's, my 2 unit amp/DCX 'flightcase', the flightcase for my Behringer DDX3216 dig. mixer and on the V-plate for the T48's. I bought a 12kg tub and still have left over. I think I can do 2 more T48's with it .

It's VERY easy to use. BUT, a couple of things could be handy:
- It doesn't smell very bad. You can paint inside, but DON'T leave them drying somewhere you or any pet is staying for a longer time, because you WILL smell it .
- It's water based but very fast drying. Dry to the touch in about 30 minutes at 15 degrees Celsius (my Wedgehorns last week) or about 5 minutes in 25-30 degrees in direct sun (my T48's last summer; probably not the best way to do it, but I had no choice). You can apply the second coat after a couple of hours. But to fully harden (it'll become VERY hard and almost indestructable), allow at least two weeks!
- Use 2 coates. For the first coat use a fine roller (best) or an ordinary brush (2nd choice). For the 2nd coat use something like djohnson573 suggested. Mine were even more structured. Another option, mentioned a couple of months ago on this forum, is to put on a thick 2nd layer and put household plastic foil on it when it's still wet. Don't bother for any wrinkles, in fact, they're mandatory. Pull it of right away and what you'll get resembles the structure of Tolex or something. I haven't tried it (yet).

Important: Although you can put it on quite thick, don't put the second coat on too thick, or else you'll get air filled bubbles that'll blow when the paint dries. It's not all bad, but it doesn't look that good either when this happens. So try to prevent this.

And of course: show us the results !

[myn]

It looks like Acrytech has changed their site. The link specified above to the recommended roller no longer works. http://www.acrytech.com/catalog.asp?pro ... prevnext=1

On their website for the roller grade there are links to 2 different types of rollers:

https://secure.cazbah.net/catalog.asp?prodid=547778

Which one represents the one that was recommended above (where the link no longer works?)


4"rlrhndl 4" Roller & Handle $4.99




9"texrlr 9" Texture Roller Cover $5.99



Or is there another one they no longer sell?

Thanks

[WB]

Which one represents the one that was recommended above (where the link no longer works?)

The blue 9" roller.

[myn]

Thanks.

Do you know who makes these and if they're available local?

Also got any examples of finished cabs using this roller? Just trying to get an idea.

Thanks

[Tom Smit]

I got my roller/pan kit from the Dollar Store ie, el cheapo

[djohnson573]

Got mine direct from Acrytech and got the little 4" model. It fits easily into tight spaces like a horn mouth with braces installed.

[myn]

Is their 4" the same as the 9" texture roller but just smaller? Or is it a different texture?

Anyone got pics of their finished cabs with it rolled on using one of these rollers?

[WB]

I still have a few of those textured rollers left, but I prefer to use the normal paint rollers.

[djohnson573]

Is their 4" the same as the 9" texture roller but just smaller? Or is it a different texture?

I believe it is the same texture, but didn't buy the 9" so can't say for sure.

Anyone got pics of their finished cabs with it rolled on using one of these rollers?

I believe it is the same texture, but didn't buy the 9" so can't say for sure.

This is the best shot I could find that shows the texture. It feels very smooth and not like sandpaper at all.



EDIT: This might be a better shot.