BillFitzmaurice.info

All right folks, plan on building my Tuba 60 very soon. Got all the baltic birch (I have 12 sheets of 5'x5' total..I wonder if I can build 4 T60's with it...)

I wanted some opinions on recommended accessories that help make life easier.

1.) I bought Corner pieces - the C1567 Small Chevron so multiples can interlock as well as 1" rubber feet (https://www.penn-elcom.com/us/small-bla ... sher-f1691)

2.) I plan on creating hand holds for ease of transport

3.) I purchased a Deep Angle Dual NL4 Dish (https://www.speakerhardware.com/proddet ... h+Dual+NL4). For the T60, I am wondering if this is the best to use or not. I am not sure where the best placement of the speakon dishes would be. I have seen folks put it on the back, but that would prevent the sub from being placed "standing up, mouth pointed toward ceiling". I believe I also saw someone place it near the horn mouth, but then you have wires coming out if horn is facing a dance floor, perhaps a bit unsightly. Thoughts on this is appreciated.

4.) What is the ideal caster for this beast? I have 2 1/2" flush Mount Caster (https://www.penn-elcom.com/us/2-9-16in- ... eel-w2060k), but should I go larger diameter wheels?

EDIT: Added point 4

Joman116 wrote: ↑Wed Feb 25, 2026 2:16 pm I plan on creating hand holds for ease of transport

My experience of handhold options is, the ones mentioned in the plans are more comfortable in the hand than handhold hardware.

I purchased a Deep Angle Dual NL4 Dish (https://www.speakerhardware.com/proddet ... h+Dual+NL4). For the T60, I am wondering if this is the best to use or not. I am not sure where the best placement of the speakon dishes would be. I have seen folks put it on the back, but that would prevent the sub from being placed "standing up, mouth pointed toward ceiling". I believe I also saw someone place it near the horn mouth, but then you have wires coming out if horn is facing a dance floor, perhaps a bit unsightly. Thoughts on this is appreciated.

As far as SpeakOn locations, don't hesitate to put them in several locations. Horn mouth's aimed at the dance floor, in most cases, isn't where they'll sound the best. Horn mouth aimed into a corner or at a wall is preferred whenever possible. That's why people put jacks in the mouths, so cords can be run along the wall and unsightly speaker connections can be hidden completely out of sight, as well as keeping them protected. This is also a part of the plans I've found to be entirely adequate. Connector dishes are fine too, they look the professional part, but they're completely unnecessary.

Seth wrote: ↑Thu Feb 26, 2026 10:39 am

Joman116 wrote: ↑Wed Feb 25, 2026 2:16 pm I plan on creating hand holds for ease of transport

My experience of handhold options is, the ones mentioned in the plans are more comfortable in the hand than handhold hardware.

I purchased a Deep Angle Dual NL4 Dish (https://www.speakerhardware.com/proddet ... h+Dual+NL4). For the T60, I am wondering if this is the best to use or not. I am not sure where the best placement of the speakon dishes would be. I have seen folks put it on the back, but that would prevent the sub from being placed "standing up, mouth pointed toward ceiling". I believe I also saw someone place it near the horn mouth, but then you have wires coming out if horn is facing a dance floor, perhaps a bit unsightly. Thoughts on this is appreciated.

As far as SpeakOn locations, don't hesitate to put them in several locations. Horn mouth's aimed at the dance floor, in most cases, isn't where they'll sound the best. Horn mouth aimed into a corner or at a wall is preferred whenever possible. That's why people put jacks in the mouths, so cords can be run along the wall and unsightly speaker connections can be hidden completely out of sight, as well as keeping them protected. This is also a part of the plans I've found to be entirely adequate. Connector dishes are fine too, they look the professional part, but they're completely unnecessary.

Seth, hope your sailing adventures are going well!

Regarding point 3) multiple speakon locations, that would be perfect. I just found where it is located in the plans (section talking about panel 10 install). How would the wiring look like if I had two speakon locations (dual speakon in each for daisy chaining T60's)? Just wire the 1+ / 1- together between them?

All the jacks get wired same to same... all the 1+ wired together, all the 1- wired together, all the 2+ wired together, all the 2- wired together

Thanks for the well wishes. It's not without it's challenges, but still on track.

Seth wrote: ↑Thu Feb 26, 2026 12:57 pm All the jacks get wired same to same... all the 1+ wired together, all the 1- wired together, all the 2+ wired together, all the 2- wired together

Thanks for the well wishes. It's not without it's challenges, but still on track.

Thanks. Hopefully someone else can chime in on the other points.
Started ripping wood yesterday...will start my first BFM Odyssey build thread in the other forum in a few weeks..

Joman116 wrote: ↑Thu Feb 26, 2026 5:35 pm Thanks. Hopefully someone else can chime in on the other points.
Started ripping wood yesterday...will start my first BFM Odyssey build thread in the other forum in a few weeks..

Congrats on breaking ground! I'm excited for you and look forward to hearing progress reports.

The casters you got are fine. They're not as high quality as I had hoped when I received mine. But, they're sufficient. You might want to add some plastic skid rails so that you can easily slide the cab up stairs and curbs without scuffing the cab finish.

The rubber feet and chevron corners are also just fine.

You should be all set.

I forget, what width and driver combo are you building?

I installed on the bottom panel 10 and next to the upper handles panel 9 (if I'm reading the plans right!). The ones on panel 10 got shredded from moving the subs around over the years and the ones in panel 9 are still immaculate because they're obviously protected in the cut out there by the handles. The handles also make handy cable loop points.

These are what I've installed on all of my BFM speakers with appropriate amounts of sealing: https://www.neutrik.com/en/product/nl4mprxx

Seth wrote: ↑Thu Feb 26, 2026 10:31 pm

Joman116 wrote: ↑Thu Feb 26, 2026 5:35 pm Thanks. Hopefully someone else can chime in on the other points.
Started ripping wood yesterday...will start my first BFM Odyssey build thread in the other forum in a few weeks..

Congrats on breaking ground! I'm excited for you and look forward to hearing progress reports.

The casters you got are fine. They're not as high quality as I had hoped when I received mine. But, they're sufficient. You might want to add some plastic skid rails so that you can easily slide the cab up stairs and curbs without scuffing the cab finish.

The rubber feet and chevron corners are also just fine.

You should be all set.

I forget, what width and driver combo are you building?

I wonder if I am better off going with a 3" (PENN Elcom MFR PN w2080k/hd) ? A bit pricey about $30 a piece.. The 2" ones I listed are the same ones on the used T39's I have, but the actual wheel is shredding off.

I plan on building 20" wide T60 loaded with a Lab12.

88h88 wrote: ↑Fri Feb 27, 2026 4:35 am I installed on the bottom panel 10 and next to the upper handles panel 9 (if I'm reading the plans right!). The ones on panel 10 got shredded from moving the subs around over the years and the ones in panel 9 are still immaculate because they're obviously protected in the cut out there by the handles. The handles also make handy cable loop points.

These are what I've installed on all of my BFM speakers with appropriate amounts of sealing: https://www.neutrik.com/en/product/nl4mprxx

Excellent..this is the type of feedback I was looking for. Panel 9 is "angled in" so it keeps the connector away from any ground contact. That looks like an excellent area.
Panel 10 could work..I suppose if I used a "recessed plate" it would prevent damage.

What sealing did you use around the neutrik connectors? Are you talking about the speaker gasket?

Joman116 wrote: ↑Fri Feb 27, 2026 10:38 am
I wonder if I am better off going with a 3" (PENN Elcom MFR PN w2080k/hd) ? A bit pricey about $30 a piece..

Cheaper at Parts Express....
https://www.parts-express.com/Penn-Elco ... quantity=1

Bruce Weldy wrote: ↑Fri Feb 27, 2026 1:00 pm

Joman116 wrote: ↑Fri Feb 27, 2026 10:38 am
I wonder if I am better off going with a 3" (PENN Elcom MFR PN w2080k/hd) ? A bit pricey about $30 a piece..

Cheaper at Parts Express....
https://www.parts-express.com/Penn-Elco ... quantity=1

Ahah! I could get the free shipping by adding a gallon of the ExoHyde Speaker Cabinet Coating ..
Thanks for the tip!

Joman116 wrote: ↑Fri Feb 27, 2026 10:58 amWhat sealing did you use around the neutrik connectors? Are you talking about the speaker gasket?

It has been a long while since the build but I'm fairly sure I made the holes in the panels for the speakers cable pretty tight and then slathered them in the polyurethane wood glue so it would expand and fill any tiny gaps as I pulled it through to the lengths I needed. I secured the cable so it wouldn't slap about inside, I think I drilled some little holes in the bracing and secured it all with some big thick zip ties. I've not had any issues but obviously if you're poking holes between the sections of the horn path you need to take extra care and probably just over-do it with sealing. I'm nut sure if there's a smarter way of doing it, if anyone else wants to chime in, feel free.