T48 stack
- Strange Kevin
- Posts: 162
- Joined: Fri May 19, 2017 3:02 pm
- Location: Scottsdale AZ
Re: T48 stack
I've seen the Radiata pine at Homedepot here in Phoenix.
Although it's only in 3/4" as far as I've seen there.
Haven't Checked Lowes in a wile.
I usually get my BB at Peterman lumber. Bit of a drive for ya, but not out of the question.
After digging through their catalog last night I learned they carry Poplar as well. I May have to check that out soon.
Although it's only in 3/4" as far as I've seen there.
Haven't Checked Lowes in a wile.
I usually get my BB at Peterman lumber. Bit of a drive for ya, but not out of the question.
After digging through their catalog last night I learned they carry Poplar as well. I May have to check that out soon.
Authorized Builder - Phoenix AZ.
Main Rig - 6 DR200s - 6 T48s (30")
SLA Pros for the smaller stuff.
Main Rig - 6 DR200s - 6 T48s (30")
SLA Pros for the smaller stuff.
Re: T48 stack
Not to completely hijack the thread, but I am wondering what folks are seeing in terms of cost. I think I may have just found a supplier for BB in my area, but they don't even post prices on their website. Maybe if you have to ask... Part of what got me wondering is that BB is, I think, mostly imported from Russia. I don't know if it's under embargo, but I am guessing that if supplies are limited or inventories low the price should go way up. Meanwhile the biggest source of radiata pine is South America, mostly Chile, I think. The Chilean Peso has been dropping relative to USD, so the price may actually be holding steady.
So this is driving my strategy on my Jack Lites: cut carefully on my 1/4 BB, and make anything that is 1/2" thickness from Radiata Pine
So this is driving my strategy on my Jack Lites: cut carefully on my 1/4 BB, and make anything that is 1/2" thickness from Radiata Pine
One man's magic is another man's engineering. --Heinlein
1 x DR250
1 x T39
1 x Omni 10
1 x DR250
1 x T39
1 x Omni 10
- Bill Fitzmaurice
- Site Admin
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- Joined: Tue May 02, 2006 5:59 pm
Re: T48 stack
Baltic Birch comes from the Baltic states. One of them is Russia, so that has put a crimp in the supply chain.
Re: T48 stack
I have finally been able to make some progress on this. I had some proper 1/2 Baltic in storage at work to build a bench out of and I ended up using something else for that purpose and was able to repurpose that towards speakers.
I started making a pair, with the pa
Lab to make a second pair when I can.
With the wood I had on hand, I got the base, sides of both cut and diagramed, and panels 3, 4 and 5 cut for one of them, and I still have enough wood to do both panel 2s and the other 3, 4 and 5.
Hopefully I am able to get those all cut and glued in place next week.
I will post pictures as soon as I can optimize them.
I started making a pair, with the pa
Lab to make a second pair when I can.
With the wood I had on hand, I got the base, sides of both cut and diagramed, and panels 3, 4 and 5 cut for one of them, and I still have enough wood to do both panel 2s and the other 3, 4 and 5.
Hopefully I am able to get those all cut and glued in place next week.
I will post pictures as soon as I can optimize them.
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- Posts: 2
- Joined: Mon Aug 15, 2022 8:30 am
- Location: Miami, FL
Re: T48 stack
I wish I saw this sooner. We're from the same place!fender3x wrote: ↑Wed Nov 30, 2022 6:22 pm I have not had luck at big box stores for lumber. I understand that there are Lowe's that sell arauco (radiata pine plywood) in some places, but not where I live. For half inch I found a supplier with a specialty lumber yard. They don't have BB, but they have radiata pine at abut $70 a sheet. I have only found BB at a wholesaler who does not sell the general public. I got them to sell me a couple of sheets of 1/4" BB because I was there talking to them, and someone generous of spirit took pity on me. I am using them as carefully as I can, and treating them like gold.
Calling around I got a lot of false alarms that turned out to be "birch" without the "Baltic".... In other words, thin veneer on top and bottom. You have to look really carefully. I once got some that fooled me because the veneer was so close to the same color as the ply under it. Took some digging to find something acceptable.
I get all my Baltic Birch from Wood Chip Marine Lumber in Ft Lauderdale, right by the airport. It's legit. They usually carry in house too. Last time I went though I had to place a special order bc they ran out and didn't have any for a while. Give them a try when you can.
Built:
2x OTop 15 (Kappa 15)
2x OTop 15 (Delta Pro 15)
Under Construction:
4x Titan 48x30w (3015LF) (painting phase)
Decommissioned:
2x Tuba 30x24w (Lab 12) (kept drivers; threw out bins)
2x OTop 15 (Kappa 15)
2x OTop 15 (Delta Pro 15)
Under Construction:
4x Titan 48x30w (3015LF) (painting phase)
Decommissioned:
2x Tuba 30x24w (Lab 12) (kept drivers; threw out bins)
Re: T48 stack
I now have panels 1-4 ready to install, other than cutting the hole for the speaker itself and I have my PL-premium ready to go and should be starting assembly on Tuesday.
On the subject of speakers, I would rather they were bolted in rather than screwd, I was thinking of glueing lag bolts through the anchor part so that the speaker would go right onto them, then I could put locking nuts on top, but I'm open to suggestions if there is a better way. I was also considering threaded inserts, but I thought it would be a little easier to torque nuts into bolts vs, bolts into inserts.
On the subject of speakers, I would rather they were bolted in rather than screwd, I was thinking of glueing lag bolts through the anchor part so that the speaker would go right onto them, then I could put locking nuts on top, but I'm open to suggestions if there is a better way. I was also considering threaded inserts, but I thought it would be a little easier to torque nuts into bolts vs, bolts into inserts.
Re: T48 stack
Threaded inserts or lag/studs are nice for some things. But, if you ever have one spin on you in a speaker cab (or any other application) that you don't have access to the back side, you'll wish you had just used screws.
I've been using cap head screws With washers and lock washers with good results lately.
Just FYI, Bill used to have T-nuts in the plans and has modified all the plans to the use of screws and screw retention blocks. My guess is for reliability.
I've been using cap head screws With washers and lock washers with good results lately.
Just FYI, Bill used to have T-nuts in the plans and has modified all the plans to the use of screws and screw retention blocks. My guess is for reliability.
Build in process - 2 WH6, one Alpha 6a loaded, one PRV Audio 6MB250-NDY loaded
Two 2x6 shorty SLA Pro's
One T39, 16", 3012LF loaded
Tall AutoTuba, 20" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421
TruckTuba, 8½" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421
Two 2x6 shorty SLA Pro's
One T39, 16", 3012LF loaded
Tall AutoTuba, 20" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421
TruckTuba, 8½" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421
- Bill Fitzmaurice
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Re: T48 stack
Nuts and bolts loosen, screws don't, as the wood fibers work like lock washers on every thread.
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- Joined: Fri Nov 27, 2009 11:37 am
- Location: New Braunfels, TX
Re: T48 stack
I did my T39s with T-nuts 12 years ago.....but, everything after has been with Recexx screws or lag bolts (hex head). Way easier....
6 - T39 3012LF
4 - OT12 2512
1 - T24
1 - SLA Pro
2 - XF210
"A system with a few knobs set up by someone who knows what they are doing is always better than one with a lot of knobs set up by someone who doesn't."
Re: T48 stack
Thank you for all the input.
I really should stop second guessing what the plans say, but I do appreciate having good and solid reasons for why things are the way they are.
I have lots of experience using screws, so no worries there, I probably already have some good, heavy-duty ones of the right size, so that saves a trip to the hardware store and an additional step of mounting bolts or inserts.
I appreciate all of your knowledge, and that someone has usually tried what I'm thinking already.
I really should stop second guessing what the plans say, but I do appreciate having good and solid reasons for why things are the way they are.
I have lots of experience using screws, so no worries there, I probably already have some good, heavy-duty ones of the right size, so that saves a trip to the hardware store and an additional step of mounting bolts or inserts.
I appreciate all of your knowledge, and that someone has usually tried what I'm thinking already.
- Bill Fitzmaurice
- Site Admin
- Posts: 28645
- Joined: Tue May 02, 2006 5:59 pm
Re: T48 stack
I used to use T-nuts, for the usual reason: that's what everyone used. After having more than a few strip out or spin out I gave up on them.
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- Joined: Fri Nov 27, 2009 11:37 am
- Location: New Braunfels, TX
Re: T48 stack
I think it's well worth buying 1/4" lag screws if for no other reason, you can put a socket on 'em and not take a chance of a screwdriver slipping and poking a hole in the cone.jakkle21 wrote: ↑Sun May 14, 2023 4:01 pm Thank you for all the input.
I really should stop second guessing what the plans say, but I do appreciate having good and solid reasons for why things are the way they are.
I have lots of experience using screws, so no worries there, I probably already have some good, heavy-duty ones of the right size, so that saves a trip to the hardware store and an additional step of mounting bolts or inserts.
I appreciate all of your knowledge, and that someone has usually tried what I'm thinking already.
6 - T39 3012LF
4 - OT12 2512
1 - T24
1 - SLA Pro
2 - XF210
"A system with a few knobs set up by someone who knows what they are doing is always better than one with a lot of knobs set up by someone who doesn't."
- Bill Fitzmaurice
- Site Admin
- Posts: 28645
- Joined: Tue May 02, 2006 5:59 pm
Re: T48 stack
1/4" lags is overkill. What works very well is metal roofing screws, which come in many lengths and have a 1/4" hex head.
Re: T48 stack
Ya know... don't. Bill usually has really well thought out reasons for stuff. But, the plans would be a few hundred pages if he went into all the details of why the plans are written the way they are. And still, that doesn't mean you or someone else couldn't come up with something that hasn't been considered before.
Ultimately, I think it's great that you brought up your intentions prior to implementing them. Gives you the opportunity to hear why it is the way it is and make your construction decisions, one way or the other, with all the information.
I applaud your second guessing
Honestly, no disrespect to Bill, I second guess everything too. I guess, in my own mind I'm smarter than everyone, even though there's so much evidence to the contrary. LOL, gotta love ego.
Build in process - 2 WH6, one Alpha 6a loaded, one PRV Audio 6MB250-NDY loaded
Two 2x6 shorty SLA Pro's
One T39, 16", 3012LF loaded
Tall AutoTuba, 20" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421
TruckTuba, 8½" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421
Two 2x6 shorty SLA Pro's
One T39, 16", 3012LF loaded
Tall AutoTuba, 20" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421
TruckTuba, 8½" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421
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- Posts: 452
- Joined: Sat Jan 26, 2013 5:50 pm
- Location: Brisbane, Australia
Re: T48 stack
Great tip.. are you speaking from experience Bruce?Bruce Weldy wrote: ↑Sun May 14, 2023 7:18 pm chance of a screwdriver slipping and poking a hole in the cone.
AT8 14", AT10 19", T30 28" LAB12, T48 36" 3015LF, THT 20" LAB15, SLA 4x3"/4x4", CArray 6x4", TLAH, TLAP, J10 FLat, J12 Flat, OT12 Flat, OT15 CD, SLAP 2x6"/4x6", WH8, DR280 Mld'd, XF210. Next J10L