J210 Lite Build

Post your build odyssey here.
Message
Author
Bruce Weldy
Posts: 8301
Joined: Fri Nov 27, 2009 11:37 am
Location: New Braunfels, TX

Re: J210 Lite Build

#46 Post by Bruce Weldy »

Bill Fitzmaurice wrote: Fri Jan 06, 2023 9:34 am He also rotated the piece in the wrong direction. You rotate the piece into the blade, with your hand on the piece on the side of it opposite the blade. He's lucky he didn't lose a finger or two.
Cutting circles on a table saw is an "iffy" operation at best. Looks really unsafe to me. Only way I consider it is if I moved the sled and workpiece to the cutline, stop, turn off the saw. Firmly attach the sled to the saw, the start up the saw and rotate the piece slowly.

But, I can think of a few better ways to make a circle.

6 - T39 3012LF
4 - OT12 2512
1 - T24
1 - SLA Pro
2 - XF210


"A system with a few knobs set up by someone who knows what they are doing is always better than one with a lot of knobs set up by someone who doesn't."

User avatar
Bill Fitzmaurice
Site Admin
Posts: 28619
Joined: Tue May 02, 2006 5:59 pm

Re: J210 Lite Build

#47 Post by Bill Fitzmaurice »

It's not dangerous at all if you follow Rule #1, never have your hands near the blade, and Rule #2, always push the work into the blade. He broke both. I cut large circles on my router table, which is wood. After cutting the part to a square the diameter of the circle I put the center point of one edge to the router bit, drive a screw through the center of the square into the table, start the router and then turn the square, feeding the cut into the bit.

User avatar
Seth
Posts: 2730
Joined: Thu Sep 10, 2009 8:06 pm
Location: Sacramento, California, USA
Contact:

Re: J210 Lite Build

#48 Post by Seth »

In the accompanying story, he explains that he was using that area to pull the sled back. If you watch it again, it's pretty obvious that's what he was doing when the circle caught the blade and spun unintentionally. If I pointed a finger at him, laughed at his lack of foresight, and claimed to never have learned something the hard way... I'd be a big fat liar. Somehow I've managed to keep all ten fingers and toes... just enough forethought I guess. So far, anyway. :fingers:

My cousin... not-so-much (note that the table saw blade tooth "V" shape can be made out on the x-ray)
IMG_9992.jpg
IMG_9991(1).jpg
Build in process - 2 WH6, one Alpha 6a loaded, one PRV Audio 6MB250-NDY loaded

Two 2x6 shorty SLA Pro's
One T39, 16", 3012LF loaded
Tall AutoTuba, 20" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421
TruckTuba, 8½" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421

User avatar
Clef's of Bass
Posts: 60
Joined: Sat Dec 26, 2020 4:21 pm

Re: J210 Lite Build

#49 Post by Clef's of Bass »

Bill Fitzmaurice wrote: Fri Jan 06, 2023 11:09 am It's not dangerous at all if you follow Rule #1, never have your hands near the blade, and Rule #2, always push the work into the blade. He broke both.
Agreed. Also, rule #1 is imperative. If you can't follow it then you have no business operating any power tool with a rotating blade.
Bruce Weldy wrote: Fri Jan 06, 2023 9:44 am Cutting circles on a table saw is an "iffy" operation at best. Looks really unsafe to me.

But, I can think of a few better ways to make a circle.
I respectfully completely disagree with you on this. This is the fastest and simplest way to cut circles with near perfect repeatability and minimal dust.

Besides, its not like the router method isn't without risk. Rotating a router around a fixed jig while avoiding power cables and clamps is also dangerous.

User avatar
Clef's of Bass
Posts: 60
Joined: Sat Dec 26, 2020 4:21 pm

Re: J210 Lite Build

#50 Post by Clef's of Bass »

Bruce Weldy wrote: Fri Jan 06, 2023 9:44 am Only way I consider it is if I moved the sled and workpiece to the cutline, stop, turn off the saw. Firmly attach the sled to the saw, the start up the saw and rotate the piece slowly.
That's not how it works. If you zoom in on my picture you'll see very small triangular cuts. These are straight sled cuts. I'll try to explain.

1. Nail to sled. Pilot drill (slightly smaller diameter) for the center nail, then nail it to the sled.
2. Straight sled cuts! This step takes the longest. Put downward pressure on the cut piece (so it does not rotate on the blade) while pushing the sled through the cut. Pull the sled back and then slightly rotate and repeat until no material extends to the opposite side of the blade.
3. Rotate the cut piece on the blade. The final step. Once most of the material is gone from the straight cuts, you rotate the cut piece into the cutting direction on the blade. Done 8)

Bruce Weldy
Posts: 8301
Joined: Fri Nov 27, 2009 11:37 am
Location: New Braunfels, TX

Re: J210 Lite Build

#51 Post by Bruce Weldy »

Clef's of Bass wrote: Fri Jan 13, 2023 7:16 pm
Bruce Weldy wrote: Fri Jan 06, 2023 9:44 am Only way I consider it is if I moved the sled and workpiece to the cutline, stop, turn off the saw. Firmly attach the sled to the saw, the start up the saw and rotate the piece slowly.
That's not how it works. If you zoom in on my picture you'll see very small triangular cuts. These are straight sled cuts. I'll try to explain.

1. Nail to sled. Pilot drill (slightly smaller diameter) for the center nail, then nail it to the sled.
2. Straight sled cuts! This step takes the longest. Put downward pressure on the cut piece (so it does not rotate on the blade) while pushing the sled through the cut. Pull the sled back and then slightly rotate and repeat until no material extends to the opposite side of the blade.
3. Rotate the cut piece on the blade. The final step. Once most of the material is gone from the straight cuts, you rotate the cut piece into the cutting direction on the blade. Done 8)
I understand the process, but I'd use a router any day over that. I guess everyone has to choose their own risk/reward quotient. The older I get, the more careful I get in the shop.

6 - T39 3012LF
4 - OT12 2512
1 - T24
1 - SLA Pro
2 - XF210


"A system with a few knobs set up by someone who knows what they are doing is always better than one with a lot of knobs set up by someone who doesn't."

User avatar
Clef's of Bass
Posts: 60
Joined: Sat Dec 26, 2020 4:21 pm

Re: J210 Lite Build

#52 Post by Clef's of Bass »

Ok, back to the thread. Sorry for the long delay in posts. Got real busy with holiday travel, family and work. Now that we're past all that back to the fun hobbies.

Guess how much this thing weighs? Could be a little lighter but I added rubber feet to the rear panel for transit and another handle on the bottom opposite of the top so you can carry it horizontally. :hyper:
Take a look at how well it travels in the truck!
I'll try to get better pictures and post some more later.
Attachments
tempImager3pLWM.gif
tempImagekTmtkF.gif
tempImagerLH1nC.gif

User avatar
Seth
Posts: 2730
Joined: Thu Sep 10, 2009 8:06 pm
Location: Sacramento, California, USA
Contact:

Re: J210 Lite Build

#53 Post by Seth »

Still can't get over how good that came out. :thumbsup:
Build in process - 2 WH6, one Alpha 6a loaded, one PRV Audio 6MB250-NDY loaded

Two 2x6 shorty SLA Pro's
One T39, 16", 3012LF loaded
Tall AutoTuba, 20" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421
TruckTuba, 8½" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421

CarterKraft
Posts: 255
Joined: Thu Oct 22, 2020 1:46 pm
Location: DFW

Re: J210 Lite Build

#54 Post by CarterKraft »

Really awesome job.
Weldon Carter

User avatar
Tom Smit
Posts: 7457
Joined: Sat Jan 05, 2008 1:24 pm
Location: Sarnia, Ont. Canada

Re: J210 Lite Build

#55 Post by Tom Smit »

Good-lookin' cab!
TomS

User avatar
Tom Smit
Posts: 7457
Joined: Sat Jan 05, 2008 1:24 pm
Location: Sarnia, Ont. Canada

Re: J210 Lite Build

#56 Post by Tom Smit »

Side note: I am curious... why you have a Matco toolbox in your garage? I only have a no-name brand one in my shed. LOL.
TomS

User avatar
Clef's of Bass
Posts: 60
Joined: Sat Dec 26, 2020 4:21 pm

Re: J210 Lite Build

#57 Post by Clef's of Bass »

Tom Smit wrote: Sat Jan 14, 2023 11:32 pm Side note: I am curious... why you have a Matco toolbox in your garage? I only have a no-name brand one in my shed. LOL.
I bought it used from an old retired School Bus mechanic in Louisville. Kinda funny, he had it in his 10th floor apartment. I remember the weird looks the other apartment residents gave me while using the elevator to get it out. :lol: Luckily it fit in my subaru i had at the time.

User avatar
Tom Smit
Posts: 7457
Joined: Sat Jan 05, 2008 1:24 pm
Location: Sarnia, Ont. Canada

Re: J210 Lite Build

#58 Post by Tom Smit »

Clef's of Bass wrote: Fri Jan 20, 2023 8:12 am
Tom Smit wrote: Sat Jan 14, 2023 11:32 pm Side note: I am curious... why you have a Matco toolbox in your garage? I only have a no-name brand one in my shed. LOL.
I bought it used from an old retired School Bus mechanic in Louisville.
Ahhh, okay.
TomS

User avatar
Seth
Posts: 2730
Joined: Thu Sep 10, 2009 8:06 pm
Location: Sacramento, California, USA
Contact:

Re: J210 Lite Build

#59 Post by Seth »

Tom was hoping you worked on Volvo's.
Build in process - 2 WH6, one Alpha 6a loaded, one PRV Audio 6MB250-NDY loaded

Two 2x6 shorty SLA Pro's
One T39, 16", 3012LF loaded
Tall AutoTuba, 20" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421
TruckTuba, 8½" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421

User avatar
Tom Smit
Posts: 7457
Joined: Sat Jan 05, 2008 1:24 pm
Location: Sarnia, Ont. Canada

Re: J210 Lite Build

#60 Post by Tom Smit »

:loler:
TomS

Post Reply