a new truck tuba build

Post your build odyssey here.
Message
Author
monekh
Posts: 90
Joined: Mon Mar 31, 2014 5:56 pm
Location: London, UK

a new truck tuba build

#1 Post by monekh »

Just about to start on a Trucktuba to fit neatly in the space available in a little van.

Ive got hold of one of the 10" drivers recommended in the plan , the Dayton LS10 - 44 https://www.daytonaudio.com/product/125 ... dual-4-ohm
Ive just noticed that it runs a dual 4 + 4 ohm voice coil. I have never heard of this before but the Dayton website explains it offers the flexibility to wire in series or parallel at 2 or 8 Ohms. My question is , do i not actually want to run this at 4 Ohms in the trucktuba ? - if so do i have to run to the Tuba from 2 separate channels in the car amp ( and have 2 terminal plates on the enclosure)?

Any advice on the right amp to get to drive this (in terms of channels and rms power handling) and whats the best way to wire this 4+4 driver much appreciated!

Many thanks,

Renan

howiez
Posts: 382
Joined: Sun Mar 16, 2014 5:23 pm
Location: Fox Valley, Wisconsin

Re: a new truck tuba build

#2 Post by howiez »

monekh wrote: Sat Nov 05, 2022 12:17 pm My question is , do i not actually want to run this at 4 Ohms in the trucktuba ? - if so do i have to run to the Tuba from 2 separate channels in the car amp ( and have 2 terminal plates on the enclosure)?

Any advice on the right amp to get to drive this (in terms of channels and rms power handling) and whats the best way to wire this 4+4 driver much appreciated!

Many thanks,

Renan
Looking forward to watch this build!
My son and I just built a Truck Tuba with a 10" Infinity. We chose 2ohm for a little extra power, his factory speakers and sub amp were setup for 3ohm anyway.

To answer your question, you can run at 2 ohms wired in parallel, or 8 ohms in series, given that speaker. What are you using for an amp? If it is 2ohm capable, I'd simply run at 2 ohms and use one cable. If you are buying an amp for this you could run 2 channels at 4ohms each, but as you pointed out, twice the wires. And lastly you could wire in series and use a single cable at 8ohms if your amp can't handle 2ohm loads. That last being the simplest and safest, not knowing anything else about your setup.

In our case, we can use the factory sub level control on his head unit to turn down a fuzz. The TT is so efficient it really brought out the bottom end in his Honda Pilot. It already had a factory 10" sealed sub with dedicated factory amp. We spliced in to the sub harness in the back end, saved us running any wires. One jack in the side and we can unplug when he needs to haul big things. I suppose we could have run his at 8ohms as well, we never tried to calculate how much less power that would be, or what the perceived volume difference was.

Good luck!

User avatar
Bill Fitzmaurice
Site Admin
Posts: 28619
Joined: Tue May 02, 2006 5:59 pm

Re: a new truck tuba build

#3 Post by Bill Fitzmaurice »

2 ohm capable auto sound sub amps are common, 1 ohm capable aren't hard to find.

monekh
Posts: 90
Joined: Mon Mar 31, 2014 5:56 pm
Location: London, UK

Re: a new truck tuba build

#4 Post by monekh »

thanks for the replies!

the amp ive got is 2 Ohm capable. so i'll do that.

Out of curiosity what would the advantages be to run it at 8 Ohm if any ?

monekh
Posts: 90
Joined: Mon Mar 31, 2014 5:56 pm
Location: London, UK

Re: a new truck tuba build

#5 Post by monekh »

Oh no!

i just read in the manual that the amp ive got is only 2ohm stable per individual channel , and when bridging 2 of the channels, as i intended to do for the trucktuba, it is only stable between 4 - 8 Ohms. Looks like ill have to run it at 8 Ohm or run two sets of cables to run it at 4 Ohms

Which of these options is preferable when The RMS power handling of this 4 channel bridgeable amp is :
Wattage RMS (4Ω <=1% THD+N) 4 x 100w
Wattage RMS (2Ω <=1% THD+N) 4 x 150w
Wattage RMS Bridged(4Ω) 2 x 300w
(and two of the channels are going to the other speakers)

Thanks again,

monekh
Posts: 90
Joined: Mon Mar 31, 2014 5:56 pm
Location: London, UK

Re: a new truck tuba build

#6 Post by monekh »

ps. the power handling rms of the Dayton driver is 250 watts

User avatar
Bill Fitzmaurice
Site Admin
Posts: 28619
Joined: Tue May 02, 2006 5:59 pm

Re: a new truck tuba build

#7 Post by Bill Fitzmaurice »


monekh
Posts: 90
Joined: Mon Mar 31, 2014 5:56 pm
Location: London, UK

Re: a new truck tuba build

#8 Post by monekh »

wow , Ok i wont bridge! -is this equally true in car audio? where many amp manufacturers suggest you bridge channels for running subwoofers.

Will one of the channels of this amp (150watts rms @ 2 0hm) be alright to power the 250watt Rms Dayton LS10 - 44 (wired for 2 ohm) OR should i switch for another amp?

monekh
Posts: 90
Joined: Mon Mar 31, 2014 5:56 pm
Location: London, UK

Re: a new truck tuba build

#9 Post by monekh »

And, can anyone recommend a brand of 12v amps which doesn't indulge in all this false specs weird hype horseS**t?

User avatar
J_Dunavin
Posts: 1260
Joined: Sun Jul 09, 2006 3:13 pm
Location: Appleton WI
Contact:

Re: a new truck tuba build

#10 Post by J_Dunavin »

JL audio is nice as well as Zapco, Alpine.
I know that Dayton can handle some power, but you just won’t need a lot of amplifier. Even my 8” mcm driver gets loud.
I would recommend a quality crossover before a really nice amp. Not sure your whole set up, but an Audio Control 2xs will take speaker level input and get you line level out with a high pass and low pass, 18db filter
2 - OTop8
2 - T39
8 - DR200
2 - DR250
9 - T24
6 - T45
1 - Auto Tuba

CarterKraft
Posts: 255
Joined: Thu Oct 22, 2020 1:46 pm
Location: DFW

Re: a new truck tuba build

#11 Post by CarterKraft »

Any of the Brazilian class D amps will do their rated power and then some.

I have used several Taramps amps in car audio and they are crazy powerful and compact.

We built a really Tall autotuba for my son's truck center console. Used a Skar VD 10" and a 500w Taramps bridged into the dual vc sub.

It's pretty stupid for 1-10" driver...
Weldon Carter

User avatar
Seth
Posts: 2731
Joined: Thu Sep 10, 2009 8:06 pm
Location: Sacramento, California, USA
Contact:

Re: a new truck tuba build

#12 Post by Seth »

monekh wrote: Mon Nov 07, 2022 12:09 pm And, can anyone recommend a brand of 12v amps which doesn't indulge in all this false specs weird hype horseS**t?
Taramps seems to be the latest name making a breakout in car audio over the past few years. Haven't used any yet, but I have seen enough reviews to feel confident in speculating their performance claims are mostly honest (seems their tiny tiny amps have inflated specs) and the price point seems fair too.

If you find an amp you feel like buying, search youtube for an amp dyno test and the model number of the amp you're considering. They'll be a good indicator of what to expect.
Build in process - 2 WH6, one Alpha 6a loaded, one PRV Audio 6MB250-NDY loaded

Two 2x6 shorty SLA Pro's
One T39, 16", 3012LF loaded
Tall AutoTuba, 20" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421
TruckTuba, 8½" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421

CarterKraft
Posts: 255
Joined: Thu Oct 22, 2020 1:46 pm
Location: DFW

Re: a new truck tuba build

#13 Post by CarterKraft »

Williston audio on YouTube dynos amps of all makes and models and will give you the straight story regarding output/input and efficiency.
Weldon Carter

User avatar
Tom Smit
Posts: 7457
Joined: Sat Jan 05, 2008 1:24 pm
Location: Sarnia, Ont. Canada

Re: a new truck tuba build

#14 Post by Tom Smit »

CarterKraft wrote: Tue Nov 08, 2022 8:19 pm Williston audio on YouTube dynos amps of all makes and models and will give you the straight story regarding output/input and efficiency.
+1
TomS

monekh
Posts: 90
Joined: Mon Mar 31, 2014 5:56 pm
Location: London, UK

Re: a new truck tuba build

#15 Post by monekh »

thanks everyone. this is a lot to work from!

one (perhaps ignorant) question, if its such a big no no to bridge channels, how do i get a bridged mono signal for the sub ( obvs dont want to send one half of stereo signals to the subwoofer).

Post Reply