It seems like you're gonna have to choose between full bodied sound quality, maximum output, or a compromise between the two... or have multiple tunes that you can load depending on where you're using it. It would be great if you could just put a switch on it somewhere for that function, a tune switch. Me personally, if it were mine, I'd much rather it sound amazing with fat, smooth, luscious bass at a lower overall max potential volume than have it be amazingly loud and less full. It seems most of the Bluetooth speakers on the market today also choose SQ over SPL (more than likely, a balanced combination of both). They also apply a limiter. So, even at the maximum volume setting, they never go into distortion. That's my observation anyway. The target response curve I posted will give you a full sound, but will limit the maximum attainable overall volume before distortion occurs from the woofer amp channel running out of steam when there's more power left for the mid and high to continue increasing volume cleanly. (that's when a limiter is handy, keep it clean)
Which brings me to the next thing I wanted to discuss. I intended to wait until after it was tuned. But, since it's come up now...
The drivers used in the chart above aren't the exact combination you have, but the overall shape of the curve should be very similar.
The reason the overall output is/would be limited is; to achieve
the curve I posted, the 50Hz region needs to be about 10dB above the average response from 100Hz to 16kHz. But, the speakers native response (chart above) at 50Hz is about 8dB below the 100Hz to 16kHz average response. Meaning 50Hz will require 18dB more volts/power than 100-16k when tuned to the target curve. The inverse is also true, 100-16k will require 18dB less volts/power than 50Hz. So, if given a signal with equal amplitude, and you have ±150 watts available for the woofer, the mid and tweeter are only going to require the equivalent of about 2.5w each. Doesn't seem all that impressive, leaving all that on the table, does it? Don't worry, music isn't equal amplitude and it should be plenty loud before distortion. But, what if you want more output? What if you want to take better advantage of the power available to the mid and tweeter and not sacrifice the bottom end to do so?
Psychoacoustic Bass tricks your brain into thinking it hears something that it doesn't actually hear by creating harmonics of a lower tone. Which could possibly double the overall perceived volume of your project speaker by removing the need to produce the signals that take a lot of power to produce and replacing them with harmonics in the portion of the spectrum that's more efficient. Maybe a little more than double perceived volume, up to 15dB, depending on how much of the bottom end you choose to keep natural.
This is your ticket to the best of both worlds. It's also the same trick tiny Bluetooth speakers use to make them sound like they have amazing bass for such a small speaker.
I've never used it, but I understand it and it should work very well. I plan to live through your experience and I'm curious to hear your personal impression.
The dynamic bass will be good to use too. But, it will (should) be just about the last thing you setup, after everything else is tuned and set. The Psychoacoustic Bass (SuperBass) plugin too, one of the last things to setup. Get everything EQ'd and sounding good first. Then we can start fiddling with the add-ons and enhancements.
The auto EQ thing... Sounds intriguing, but I don't have it in me to soak it all up and make sense of everything presented. Pretty damn cool though, the amazing stuff these DSP chips are capable of, isn't it?