BillFitzmaurice.info

In a version of the DR200 plans these guys are called out:
https://www.eminence.com/pro-audio/hf-p ... op-hat-ch/
In my Otop 8 plans a regular top hat is incorporated.

Is the adjustable top hat no longer recommended? I haven't actually used one, but thought it might be nice to use.

Looking at the sketchup file, it looks like even a standard top hat has to pass through the uppermost and lower most horn sheaths. Having to custom cut the contour of the adjustable top hat and getting it all sealed up could be problematic. Also, it's proximity to the baffle looks like it could be a problem too. Based on that, my guess is an adjustable top hat just won't fit that particular cab design.

J_Dunavin wrote: ↑Sat Sep 25, 2021 8:01 am In a version of the DR200 plans these guys are called out:
https://www.eminence.com/pro-audio/hf-p ... op-hat-ch/
In my Otop 8 plans a regular top hat is incorporated.

Is the adjustable top hat no longer recommended? I haven't actually used one, but thought it might be nice to use.

It's should work - you'll have to make a bigger hole in throat reflector and make sure the hole you cut in the bottom is far enough forward for it to clear the baffle.

Bruce Weldy wrote: ↑Sat Sep 25, 2021 8:21 am It's should work - you'll have to make a bigger hole in throat reflector and make sure the hole you cut in the bottom is far enough forward for it to clear the baffle.

You may be right! I just hacked one off the DR200 model and haphazardly stuck it in the otop8 sketchup... based on the dimensions of the model, it looks like it may work. Looks like the centerline would have to be moved forward an inch or so.

Good news is that part of the horn isn't part of the driver chamber, so a good seal isn't critical there.

But be aware of the center of gravity on your cab.
The delta pros in my Otop 8s make them very back heavy.

Actually, an adjustment tophat with a downward tilt might be a good thing.... hmmmm..

That's a good point about that area not being part of the driver chamber Kevin.

If it were me, I think I'd make the cutout in the bottom as close to the baffle line as possible. Then, when it's time to install the bottom reflector, make a cardboard/core board/craft paper template and test fit, snip a little, test fit, snip a little... until I had a decent stencil of the hole shape and location to trace onto the reflector and cut out with a jig saw.

Might be a better way to do that. But, that's the only solution that comes to mind, for me.