BillFitzmaurice.info

Hey,
I'm building 2 x tuba30's. I've only the last side panel to go on. I was looking at the great design, seems a pity to cover it up.
Has anyone any thoughts on doing the last panel in perspex to let the internal design show.
I'm guessing a few issues could be a different resonance with the perspex compared to the birch, creating the perfect seal without using the poly adhesive.
I'd be interested if anyone has tried it or has thoughts about trying it.
Might even replace one of the curved panels on the dr200's I'm making to get a glimpse of the woofer doing its thing.
Any thoughts
Cheers

Paddlsonic wrote: ↑Fri Dec 04, 2020 7:55 am
Has anyone any thoughts on doing the last panel in perspex to let the internal design show.

Oh, about twice a year in the ten years I've been on the forum. Don't remember anyone actually doing it other than with driver compartment covers.

Paddlsonic wrote: ↑Fri Dec 04, 2020 7:55 am Might even replace one of the curved panels on the dr200's I'm making to get a glimpse of the woofer doing its thing.

You can't see through the required damping that lines the driver chamber.

ah yes very true with the DR's.

yes i started thinking just the driver compartment covers on the tubas but it went from there. If i can find the right material to use between the cab and the perspex i might try it.

thanks guys

If you used enough screws, could you just run a layer gasket tape along the whole horn path to seal the side panel of the T30s?

I feal like this would work, although screwing into the end-grain of 1/2" isn't exactly ideal....

The other side of mine has already been screwed and glued, with 1 1/4"screws every 3", wasn't a problem. I might extend the perspex side screws a little to get extra bite and allow for the thickness of the gasket tape. i haven't looked at the right material yet and i'd want enough thickness that it really pushes in to the timber. Also a solid enough material it doesn't just go sideways under pressure. There's got to be something out there......

still a worthy consideration,.....

It does not glue to the ply construction so screws are all that is holding it together. Takes quite a lot of screws and meticulous application of weather stripping, just as Kevin points out. It is somewhat heavy compared to 1/2" plywood and scratches easily in transport. It does look cool, no arguing there. If you are going through that much effort, might as well install some LED strips in there while you are at it.

Fairly certain the driver chamber wouldn't create too much pressure to be able to be reliably sealed in that manner, but I'm curious what the positive and negative pressure peaks are, relative to atmospheric, at the small end of the horn. Is it 1-2psi? 10-15psi? I haven't the slightest idea, but I assume it wouldn't be much more than that.

One thing's for sure... if there's a will, there's a way.

Being the old, crotchety, curmudgeonly, naysayer that I am......I'd suggest that you think a couple of years down the line after the novelty of the clear side has worn off, it's all scratched up and you find that with doing the proper sub placement - it often ends up not being visible......at that point will you wish you had just made it look like a proper, professional cabinet?

Remember the old saying, "Just 'cuz you can, don't mean you should."

Anyway, if it still floats your boat - then do it.....but take a minute to think about which side should be the "aquarium" side based on how you'll most likely be using it.

Was thinking a little bit more about the pressures and sealing. I really don't think it would be too much of an issue, because the driver access panel on Titans is at the small end of the horn, in the horn path, uses ½" gasket tape, and screws spaced every 4 inches. So, I'm guessing you could use gasket tape and the same fastener spacing on a side too and not have issues with internal leaks.

From my point of view, as a builder, I could see having one of these as a floor model to "WOW" potential customers with. especially with fancy lights inside.

But I definitely see the hassle it keeping it scratch free in normal use.

To help protect against scratch i guess you could sandwich a ring of 1/2" onto the outside edge.
I'm Thinking like a window on a submarine. One side of the sub would end up much thicker than the other without making another ring to match the first, and its all adding up to a lot of extra work and weight.

That being said, its definitely still a cool Idea!!!
Let us know how it goes if you do end up moving forward with the idea I'll be watching this one! :

Ps,
Bruce,
Curmudgeon is one of my current favorite words!
I crack up every time I see or hear it!

Thanks!

Strange Kevin wrote: ↑Mon Dec 07, 2020 10:25 pm ... especially with fancy lights inside...

I can envision mounting LED tape to the far sides of the braces so you can't see them. No direct light, just an ominous glow of light from within.

IIRC, the Dancetronauts had their DR250's (or is it DR280's?) built with clear sides and lit them in a similar way. The non-clear portions painted white. Really pops.

Found a pic

SethRocksYou, They are the DR280 cabs.

All good points guys, and still not sure about whether to float my boat. Thought about just a big heavy piece of glass. No fixings. Less scratching. bloody heavy though. I'd be interested as Seth pointed out what the pressure level would be and how heavy that piece of glass would have to be to maintain the proper seal.

As far as the Led's go, how would be the best way to power them. Could you up the voltage from the amp and let them draw from there. I know crazy question but just curious.....