Simplexx 112 Wedges
Posted: Sun May 10, 2020 7:48 am
(FYI, this won't be an extensive build thread...I'm not one to remember to stop and tape pics every step.)
Building 4 Simplexx 112 wedges using the recommended Eminence Beta 12CX and ASD1001 HF drivers.
Going to try without the side handles. I'd like to see how it is to pick up/carry with one strap handle on the 'light' end, so the weight of the driver is carried low. If needed, I'll cut handle holes later.
I've built Wedgehorn 6s for my old church, but these are for me. I do have 2 W6s that were never finished. If I remember, I'll get size comparison pics.
The Simplexx series is aimed at first-time builders, so I'm writing some building tips/tricks that I've picked up. Feel free to add your own tips in the comments.
Thoughts so far?
1. Easy build, truly simple(xx). For those who can't, or have never, you can build this. There are some angles that need to be cut, but take your time and look at the plans and sketchup drawings.
1a. Again, for those who are new to building/woodworking, on pieces like the ducts which are smaller than your hand and need angles on both edges, cut a long strip with the angled edges first, then cut the strip into the required 4" long pieces.
2. They're smaller than I had anticipated. I pulled out the measuring tape when I was deciding on what to build, but until you actually see them take shape, it's tough to grasp actual size. Funny enough, my Titan 48s were the opposite. Knew they would be huge, but they border on immense. (still glad I built them, in fact I need 4 more, LOL)
3. I used a table saw to cut everything, but these can easily be built with a circular saw. One thing I do have that makes these builds MUCH easier is an 18ga Brad Nailer. This nail gun shoots small nails that is very handy to stick parts together. I don't have enough hands to hold two pieces together, hold the square, and use a hammer/nail or a screwgun/screw... the nail gun makes it easy to get these projects to hold together until the PL adhesive sets.
4. Find 1/2" Baltic Birch plywood if you can. I've used other plywoods (second best was the Arauco I used for my T48s), but the Baltic Birch is more resistant to warping, in my opinion. Bill's plans do a good job of dealing with warping, but I've found that the Baltic Birch is much more warp-less, if that's a word. It makes the build easier and more fun if you're not trying to tack down a piece of wood bent like a banana (what you'll get if you pick up the garbage plywood from Lowes/Home Depot).
5. PL Premium adhesive is nice, but wear disposable gloves. You can get a box of gloves for $5 or so...and it's so worth it. PL is messy, and does not come off your hands. Also, wait a few hours, and scrape off the excess squeeze-out with a chisel/putty knife. Once it sets, it's rock hard, and you'll spent a lot more time trying to chisel/sand it off.
That's all for now, here a few pics of my progress.
Building 4 Simplexx 112 wedges using the recommended Eminence Beta 12CX and ASD1001 HF drivers.
Going to try without the side handles. I'd like to see how it is to pick up/carry with one strap handle on the 'light' end, so the weight of the driver is carried low. If needed, I'll cut handle holes later.
I've built Wedgehorn 6s for my old church, but these are for me. I do have 2 W6s that were never finished. If I remember, I'll get size comparison pics.
The Simplexx series is aimed at first-time builders, so I'm writing some building tips/tricks that I've picked up. Feel free to add your own tips in the comments.
Thoughts so far?
1. Easy build, truly simple(xx). For those who can't, or have never, you can build this. There are some angles that need to be cut, but take your time and look at the plans and sketchup drawings.
1a. Again, for those who are new to building/woodworking, on pieces like the ducts which are smaller than your hand and need angles on both edges, cut a long strip with the angled edges first, then cut the strip into the required 4" long pieces.
2. They're smaller than I had anticipated. I pulled out the measuring tape when I was deciding on what to build, but until you actually see them take shape, it's tough to grasp actual size. Funny enough, my Titan 48s were the opposite. Knew they would be huge, but they border on immense. (still glad I built them, in fact I need 4 more, LOL)
3. I used a table saw to cut everything, but these can easily be built with a circular saw. One thing I do have that makes these builds MUCH easier is an 18ga Brad Nailer. This nail gun shoots small nails that is very handy to stick parts together. I don't have enough hands to hold two pieces together, hold the square, and use a hammer/nail or a screwgun/screw... the nail gun makes it easy to get these projects to hold together until the PL adhesive sets.
4. Find 1/2" Baltic Birch plywood if you can. I've used other plywoods (second best was the Arauco I used for my T48s), but the Baltic Birch is more resistant to warping, in my opinion. Bill's plans do a good job of dealing with warping, but I've found that the Baltic Birch is much more warp-less, if that's a word. It makes the build easier and more fun if you're not trying to tack down a piece of wood bent like a banana (what you'll get if you pick up the garbage plywood from Lowes/Home Depot).
5. PL Premium adhesive is nice, but wear disposable gloves. You can get a box of gloves for $5 or so...and it's so worth it. PL is messy, and does not come off your hands. Also, wait a few hours, and scrape off the excess squeeze-out with a chisel/putty knife. Once it sets, it's rock hard, and you'll spent a lot more time trying to chisel/sand it off.
That's all for now, here a few pics of my progress.
